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FROM THE 



ASJiiiB^ nsiLiiSJisso 



BY 






JifS* 33rotonc* 



" Wilt thou fly 
With laughing Autumn to the Atlantic isles, 
And range with him the Hesperian fields, and see 
Where'er his fingers touch the fruitful grove, 
The branches shoot with gold j where'er his step 
Marks the glad soil, the tender clusters grow 
With purple ripeness, and invest each hill 
As with the blushes of an evening sky ? " 



^Ot^^n 



GEORGE W. LIGHT, 

Lyceum Press, 3 Comhill. 

1834. 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1834, 

By DANIEL J. BROWNE, 

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massachusetts. 



/ S' 6 ^ 



LETTER I 



Introduction. 



STo Hon. Thomas H. Perkins, John Parker, Hon. John Davis, Samuel Appleton, 
Hon. Benjamin W. Crowningshield, Ebenezer Francis, Hon. Nathaniel Bow- 
ditch, Henry Codman, Abbott Lawrence, Hon. Francis C. Gray, Amos Law- 
rence, Dr. John C. Warren, Lucius M. Sargent, Hon. Stephen White, Dr. 
William Ingalls, John Parker, Jr., Dr. Benjamin D. Greene, Dr. John Ware, 
David Sears, Dr. Edward Warren, Epes S. Dixwell, Dr. Jerome V. C. Smith, 
Gustavus Tuckerman, Dr. Winslow Lewis, Jr., Demming Jarves, Dr. Josiah 
F. Flagg, Marcus Whiting, Dr. Martin Gay, Israel Thorndike, George W. 
Pratt, Thomas C. Smith, William W. Stone, Charles H. Parker, George W. 
Bond, Hon. John Lowell, Salem East India Marine Society, Charles G. Page, 
Dr. William T. Harris, Dr. Paul Swift, William Cooper, Dr. John C. Jay. 



^.&nue'. 



As it was the request of several of the individuals 
under whose auspices I have had the honor to act, that I 
should draw up a popular account of the principal occur- 
rences of my late voyage, 1 have availed myself of the 
favor of bringing it before the public under the protection 
of all your names. I have preferred uniting them in a 
connected series, by making a faithful abstract of my 
Journal, which was invariably written on the spot, at the 
close of each day, taking advantage to introduce such re- 
marks or observations as might be illustrative or entertain- 
ing. I am sensible that many imperfections will be found, 
both as regards style and arrangement ; but as they claim 
no great degree of merit, it is hoped that they will escape 
the severity of unsought, though, perhaps, deserved criti- 
cism. 



4 CANARY ISLANDS. 

Before entering into the career of my narrative, it may 
be interesting to take a rapid survey of the regions which 
I am about to describe, in relation to the state in which 
they came from the hands of nature. Although situated 
within five degrees of longitude, they exhibit the most 
striking and the most opposite contrasts ; and, from their 
natural features and their proximity to Africa, they appear 
to be strongly allied to that continent. Considered in re- 
lation to their place on the globe, they possess an extraor- 
dinary degree of natural beauty, and even of considerable 
commercial and political value ; while, at the same time, 
they offer incalculable advantages to the painter, the anti- 
quary, the naturalist, and above all, to the invalid. 

The Canary Islands are particularly distinguished, from 
the fact that they are situated nearly on the verge of the 
torrid zone, and from the numerous volcanic eruptions to 
which they have been exposed. On these circumstances 
chiefly depend their physical peculiarities. Their inhabi- 
tants, at least one half of the year, experience the intense 
and almost perpendicular rays of the sun, which glares on 
them with oppressive and often malignant beam ; and when 
the periodical rains neglect to fall, he blasts the whole face 
of nature, and overspreads her with sterility and desolation. 
Then that same orb which cheers and enlightens the more 
temperate regions of the earth, here becomes the most 
deadly bane, and the inhabitants are reduced to the most 
desperate famine, and often have to resort to the most un- 
natural food. But what is still more dreadful, are those 
internal conflagrations which so often burst forth, and 
threaten the poor wretches below with impending ruin. 
The traces of these awful events are conspicuous in every 
portion of these islands. Indeed, '^ this part of the earth 
seems already to have undergone the sentence pronounced 
upon the whole of it ; but, like the phoenix, has risen 
again frpm its own ashes in much greater beauty and 
splendor than before it was consumed." Thus nature em- 
ploys the same agent to create, as to destroy ; and what 
has been regarded here as the deadliest consumer, has 
proved in the end, to be the highest blessing. 

In order to counteract the baneful influence of the tor- 
rid SQU, kind nature has devised suitable reparation, by 



CANARY ISLANDS. O 

fanning the earth with refreshing breezes, and by setting 
apart an appropriate season for rain. Then, amid the roar 
of winds, the glare of lightnings, and the crash of thunders 
that seem to rend the skies, heaven opens all her windows 
and pours down an unbroken flood, and deluges the earth. 
The dry beds of the ravines and of the rivulets are now 
converted into torrents which tumultuously rush down the 
stupendous precipices, and lay the lower regions in com- 
plete inundation. To this cause may be imputed, in a 
measure, the amazing fertility which so particularly char- 
acterizes these regions. Another fruitful source of irriga- 
tion, or at least, of affording artificial inundation, are the 
lofty mountains, which give birth to numerous springs. 
Their Alpine pinnacles are perforated by deep fissures, 
constantly filled with perennial snows, which, on melting, 
gush forth and run down their declivities, producing the 
most luxuriant fertility. Their porous sides, too, are often 
dashed with vapors, and imbibe large quantities of moisture, 
which, flowing together, issues in the form of springs, and 
has the same fertilizing influence. Hence it is, that vege- 
tation attains that luxuriant growth w^hich so remarkably 
distinguishes these regions. 

From the variety of soil and climate with which these 
islands are favored, they produce, or rather are susceptible 
of producing, almost every species of vegetable that ever 
has been useful to man. In truth, the cultivated regions 
may be compared to an earthly paradise. They have 
often been painted in colors that pertain not to the imper- 
fect abodes of the earth ; as the ^^ Elysian Fields,'^ or as 
** islands destined to be the future mansions of the blessed. '^ 
It is here that we have an agreeable mixture of the olive 
and the vine, the fig and the banana, the cocoa and the 
orange, the apple and the pear, the peach and the almond, 
the coffee-tree and the sugar-cane, the strawberry and the 
bread-fruit, and a variety of other fruits, rising up promis- 
cuously amidst countless herbs and flowers, tinted with 
the most brilliant and delicate hues. It is here, too, that 
the great dragon-tree displays its gigantic forms, and the 
majestic date sends its summit into the sky. As we con- 
tinue to ascend, we behold the stately chesnut and the 
lofty pine, surrounded by small elegant trees and flowering 
*1 



O CANARY ISLANDS. 

shrubs, which embellish the way ; and at last, we reach 
the more elevated tracts destined to perpetual sterility, the 
borders of which, are not destitute of interest, nor of 
beauty. As we approach the confines of these wastes, 
numerous oases of arborescent heaths spring up in wild 
and spontaneous profusion, and assume a truly pleasing 
and smiling aspect. 

Nor is the animal world destitute of interest here. Not- 
withstanding the detached situation, and the narrow limits 
of these islands, they formerly contained large bands of 
wild beasts, most of the species of which, have either been 
extirpated or reclaimed ; but they were not of such vast 
numbers, nor of that savage character as those which per- 
vade almost every tract of the adjacent continent. They 
were for the most part creatures innocent, gentle, and 
beautiful. Large packs of wild dogs of a ferocious char- 
acter appear to have been found here ; but it is not allowed 
that they constituted the true species in a state of nature, 
but that they descended from dogs once domesticated, 
which have relapsed into a state resembling that of primi- 
tive wildness. 

Although the limited range, the arid aspect, and the 
fiery summits which these islands present, would cause one 
to suppose that they are unfavorable to the existence and 
propagation of the feathered tribes, yet many a cliff, many 
a tree, and many a verdant spot, afibrd appropriate recesses 
for this fairy race. To these islands we are indebted for 
some of our sweetest songsters. 

In descending into the briny regions, we find them peo- 
pled, also, with immense tribes of the finny race, which 
furnish an abundant supply of food. And all about the 
shores are found myriads of crustacese, madrepores, shells, 
and other products that ornament the deep. But happily, 
the reptiles of these islands are very limited in their spe- 
cies, and none of them are of a poisonous nature, and 
consequently are regarded as harmless. 

Nor is the insect race here less numerous or less pleas- 
ing than the vegetable world ; yet some of them are pos- 
sessed with many singular and even formidable character- 
istics. Sometimes legions of locusts migrate from the con- 
tinent to these islands, where their havoc is almost incredi- 



CANARY ISLANDS. 7 

ble. They issue in clouds so dense that they darken the 
air. In vain do the forlorn inhabitants ring their bells, 
throw water, and devise other means to obstruct their 
course ; but the irresistible mass moves forward, and eludes 
every attempt to check their depredations. Whole fields 
and vineyards enlivened with verdure, or laden with har- 
vest, are ravaged by them without suffering to remain a 
leaf or even a blade of grass. Sometimes in attempting to 
cross the ocean, they are driven upon its surface by tem- 
pestuous winds, and inconceivable numbers are driven 
upon the shores dead, and the putrid exhalations arising 
from them, have been regarded as noxious to health. 

In conclusion, we come to man as he existed here at 
the time of the arrival of the Spaniards at these islands. 
At that period, the people here were known by the name 
of Guanches. In general, they inhabited natural caverns 
and caves or huts, built of gross and unhewn materials, 
constructed without the aid of mortar. They led, in many 
respects, a truly savage life, and hardly possessed a knowl- 
edge of the earliest rudiments of art. Although the cereal 
grasses were known to them, agriculture was in its rudest 
and most uncultivated state, and they subsisted chiefly on 
parched barley flour and goats' milk, and fed in common 
with dogs. They deposited their dead in caverns for the 
purpose of inhumation, and even possessed the art of em- 
balming, which tend to prove that they descended, or had 
some knowledge of the Caucasian tribes. But a profound 
silence reigns with regard to their origin, in which the 
world probably must remain forever in darkness. 

D. J. B. 

Boston, May, 1834. 



LETTER II 



Voyage from New -York to Teneriffe. 



After making due preparations for a long voyage, 
we weighed anchor and set sail from New- York at sunrise 
on Tuesday the 9th instant, for the island of Teneriffe. 
The morning was rainy, and the wind in an unfavorable 
quarter. We worked our w^ay, however, with little diffi- 
culty through the Narrows, and about mid-day found our- 
selves just launching into the broad and interminable ocean. 
About this time the wind came round to the north-west; 
the clouds dispersed, and the sun burst forth with fervid 
brightness. A gentle breeze filled our sails, and we 
directed our course east-by-south, passing by the United 
States frigate Brandywine, which was proudly riding at 
anchor, and waving her stars and stripes. As v/e ad- 
vanced, the adjacent shores and high lands were fast 
receding from our view, and at four o'clock they gravely 
sunk behind the waves, and were seen no more. 

It is difficult to describe the sensations which crowd 
upon one as he is bidding adieu to his home and native 
land, though but for a limited period of time ; still more 
difficult is it to pourtray the painful emotions that burst 
upon one as he is taking the last glimpse of his native 
shores, leaving behind him all his friends, his kindred, and 
his country, and this, for an indefinite period — and per- 
haps, forever. Of the first of these feelings I have had 
many to contend with; of the latter, none before the 
present. 

During the last fifteen years of my life, my pursuits have 
led me over a considerable portion of our country, as well 
as other parts of America. I have travelled by land and 
by sea ; have been separated from home, from relatives, 



10 CANARY ISLANDS. 

from friends, and have often been impressed with emotions 
that weighed heavily on my heart. But then I was still 
to remain in a land, and mingle with a people, whom I 
could boast as my own ; a land far-famed in greatness ; 
*' a nation whom I was taught to regard as no less free than 
brave, no less intelligent than virtuous, and no less high- 
minded than powerful.' ' But whither now ? To regions 
fair and delightful on the one hand, decked with ancient 
monuments of genius and of art, renowned for modern 
works of grandeur, and possessed by people, free, enlight- 
ened, and intelligent. On the other hand, to regions over- 
shadowed with despotism and superstition ; to nations im- 
bued with frightful prejudices, degraded and demoralized 
to the last degree, and totally inaccessible to persuasion or 
to civilization. * 

The breeze continued to heighten, and at night we 
were swiftly ploughing our way through the pitchy deep, 
marking out a furrow of liquid fire, which, at one moment, 
was brilliant and dazzling — at another, tranquil and pearly. 
These moveable lights were grouped in endless varieties. 
Here, myriads of luminous points like little stars appeared 
floating upon the surface, and then flowing together, form- 
ing one vast sheet of light. Then the scene became more 
tumultuous ; the refulgent waves hove up and broke in 
shining foam. At other times, appeared large sparkling 
bodies, resembling the forms of fishes pursuing each other, 
alternately disappearing and bursting anew. 

The explanation of this phenomenon has long attracted 
the attention of philosophers. Valisneri, Rigaud, and 
Dicquemare, have shown, that on several occasions, this 
light was produced by a little animal called the glow-worm 
of the sea. It has a body extremely thin and transparent, 
is possessed with astonishing activity, and emits a dazzling 
and vivid light. All the zoophytes and mollusc a seem to 
be phosphorescent in a greater or a less degree. The 
observations of Peron, and of Langsdorfi* confirm this ex- 



*It may be here remarked, that after passing a nurnber of weeks at Teneriffe, I 
touched on the west coast of Africa, and afterwards visited several parts of Spain, 
France, Sicily and the Belearic Islands, and intended travelling to Italy, Greece, 
Turkey and Egypt ; but on reaching Sicily, imperative circumstances compelled a 
speedy return. 



CANARY ISLANDS. 11 

planation of luminous phenomena in the sea, and it seems 
to be the only one that can be admitted as general. It 
appears that this emission of phosphorus arises from the 
excited state of the vital spirits in these animals, and that 
it is chiefly at the moment of amorous enjoyment that they 
cast forth so brilliant a light. 

Fougeroux, Canton, Forster and other accurate ob- 
servers, while they agree with respect to the existence of 
glow-worms, think that the light of the sea, v/hen it is 
tranquil, and as it were united with the water, originates 
from the decomposition of vegetable and animal substan- 
ces collected together into it, and which, in putrifying, 
emit their phosphorus. Light, of this description, is chiefly 
observed in long calms, and after great heat. The spawn 
of fish, also, possesses the power of emitting a certain 
light. This marine phosphoric light has been observed to 
be the most powerful during a storm, which has given rise 
to the belief that the phenomenon was produced by the 
friction of the marine currents. Upon this topic I will 
conclude in quoting a reflection from Newton. /* Do not 
all solids," says this philosopher, ^' when they are heated 
beyond a certain degree, emit a portion of light, and is not 
this emission produced by the vibratory motion of their parti- 
cles ? And do not all the bodies which abound in earthy and 
particularly sulphureous particles, throw forth light as often 
as these particles are sufficiently agitated ? JMay not this 
agitation proceed from heat, friction, putrefaction, from 
vital motion, or from some other cause ? It is thus that 
the sea-water in a stormy tempest becomes luminous." 

At sea, on board of the Panope, ) 
Thursday, July 11, 1833. ) 



LETTER III. 



Voyage to Teneriffe Continued. 



During the week past we have been sailing under the 
most propitious circumstances. We have made 20° of 
longitude, and are now in the Gulf Stream, receiving its 
utmost benefits. We entered it on the 11th instant, at 
four o'clock in the afternoon, which was obvious from an 
increase of temperature of the water. A thermometer 
being immersed, indicated 72° F.,* two degrees higher 
than at noon of the same day. Yesterday the temperature 
of the atmosphere at noon, in latitude 40° 4^ N., and 
longitude 57° 41^ W. was 82°, and that of the ocean at 
the surface 80°, which is 15° higher than it was near 
Sandy Hook, at noon on the day of our departure. 

This great current may be explained as follows : — 
*^ Between the tropics, especially from the coast of Senegal 
to the Caribbean Sea, there is a stream that always flows 
from east to west, and which is named the Equinoctial Cur- 
rent. Its mean rapidity may be estimated at ten or eleven 
miles in twenty-four hours. This movement of the waters, 
which is also observed in the Pacific Ocean, having a 
direction contrary to that of the earth's rotation, is supposed 
to be connected with the latter only in so far as it changes 
into trade-winds those aerial currents from the poles, which, 
in the lower regions of the atmosphere, carry the cold air 
of the high latitudes towards the equator ; and it is to the 
general impulse which these winds give to the surface of 



*It will be unclerstood that the variations of temperature expressed in this work, 
are noted after Fahrenheit's scale, except otherwise specified. 

2 



14 CANARY ISLANDS* 

the ocean that the phenomenon in question is to be 
attributed. 

** This current carries the waters of the Atlantic towards 
the Mosquito and Honduras coasts, from which they move 
northward, and passing into the Gulf of Mexico, follow 
the bondings of the shore from Vera Cruz to the mouth of 
the Rio del Norte, and from thence to the mouths of the 
Mississippi and the shoals at the southern extremity of 
Florida. After performing this circuit, it again directs 
itself northward, rushing with great impetuosity through 
the Straits of Bahama. At the end of these narrows, in 
the parallel of Cape Canaveral, the flow, which rushes 
onward like a torrent, sometimes at the rate of five miles 
an hour, runs to the north-east. Its velocity diminishes 
and its breadth enlarges as it proceeds northward. Be- 
tween Cape Biscayo and the Bank of Bahama, the width is 
only 52 miles, while in 28.5° of lat. it is 59 ; and in the 
parallel of Charleston, opposite Cape Henlopen, it is from 
138 to 173 miles, the rapidity being from three to five miles 
an hour where the stream is narrow, and only one mile as 
it advances towards the north. To the east of Boston and 
in the meridian of Halifax the current is nearly 276 miles 
broad. Here it suddenly turns towards the east ; its west- 
ern margin touching the extremity of the great bank of 
Newfoundland. From this to the Azores it continues to 
flow to the E. and E.S.E., still retaining part of the im- 
pulse which it had received nearly 1150 miles distant in 
the Straits of Florida. In the meridian of the Isles of 
Corvo and Flores, the roost western of the Azores, it is 
not less than 552 miles in breadth. From the Azores it 
directs itself towards the Straits of Gibraltar, the island of 
Madeira, and the Canary Isles. To the south of Madeira 
we can distinctly follow its motion to the S.E. and S.S.E., 
bearing on the shores of Africa, between Capes Cantin 
and Bojador. Cape Blanco, which, next to Cape Verd, 
farther to the south, is the most prominent part of that 
coast, seems again to influence the direction of the stream ; 
and in this parallel it mixes with the great equinoctial cur- 
rent as already described. 



CANARY ISLANDS. 15 

*^ In this manner, the waters of the Atlantic, between the 
parallels of 11° and 43°, are carried round in a continual 
whirlpool, which Humboldt calculates must take two years 
and ten months to perform its circuit of 13,118 miles. 
This great current is named the Gulf Stream. Off the 
coast of Newfoundland a branch separates from it, and 
runs from S.W. to N.E. towards the coasts of Europe." 

This current is of great utility to the navigator, who may 
judge, with a degree of certainty, of his situation, and of 
the proximity of his approach towards the coast of the 
United States. When he enters the borders of it, • the in- 
creased temperature of the water, its strong saltness, its 
intense azure color, and the large quantities of sea-weed 
(Fucus) which floats along its surface, as well as the ele- 
vated heat of the surrounding atmosphere, all indicate, 
even in winter, that he has reached this noble Gulf 

On the 11th instant, in latitude 39° 54^, and in longitude 
69° 4r, I observed some fragments of fucus, a kind of sea- 
weed which grows on submarine rocks, as well as three 
species of medusae, floating in a south-westerly direction, 
propelled by the counter current near the western edge of 
the gulf 

The medusae are animals consisting of a tender gelati- 
nous mass of different fibres, supplied with arms or tentacu- 
lar processes proceeding from their lower surface. They 
are marked with various colors, which, by the reflection of 
the sun's rays, create a beautiful contrast with the azure 
tint of the ocean. The larger species when touched by the 
hand, cause a slight stinging and redness ; hence they are 
commonly called sea-nettles. By gently agitating them in 
the dark, they will emit light. ** When a very irritable in- 
dividual is placed on a tin plate, and the latter is struck 
with a piece of metal, the vibrations of the tin are sufficient 
to make the animal shine. Sometimes, on galvanizing 
medusae, the phosphorescence appears at the moment when 
the chain closes, although the exciters are not in direct 
contact with the body of the subject. The fingers, after 
touching it, remain luminous for two or three minutes. 
Wood, on being rubbed with medusae, becomes luminous, 
and after the phosphorescence has ceased, it may be 



16 CANARY ISLANDS. 

rekindled by passing the dry hand over it ; but when the 
light is a second time extinguished it cannot be repro- 
duced."* These animals are supposed to constitute the 
chief food of cetaceous fish. 

I observed another beautiful class of animals floating 
dovrn the Gulf, called by seamen, the Portuguese man-o- 
war (Physalia pelagica. Lam.) They resemble an ob- 
long bladder, elevated superiorly into an oblique and 
wrinkled crest, and furnished beneath, near one of the 
extremities, with a variety of cylindrical, fleshy productions, 
terminated at different lengths, which unite with the body. 
They float at will, upon the surface of the water, most fre- 
quently when it is calm, employing the crest for a sail ; 
and when quietly gliding along, the rays of the sun drop 
upon them, and produce a beautiful irridescent appear- 
ance. By touching these animals with the hand, they dis- 
charge, as a means of defence, a gaseous fluid, which stings 
and burns like the sea-nettle. They are found in all 
tropical seas. 

On the morning of the 14th instant, thousands of flying- 
fish (Exocetus vditans. Lin.) were seen darting through 
the air in a direct line opposite to the waves. These fish 
seem to lead the most miserable existence. In their own 
element, they are incessantly pursued by dolphins and 
other fish of prey. If they endeavor to avoid them by hav- 
ing recourse to the air, they either meet their fate from 
gulls or other predatory birds, or are forced down the 
mouths of the inhabitants of the deep, which keep pace 
below with their aerial excursions. The head of this fish 
is scaly, their body whitish, and their belly angular. Their 
pectoral fins are very large, which enable them to raise 
themselves from the water, and fly to a considerable dis- 
tance, till their fins become dry, and then they descend 
into the water. They are sometimes found in northern 
seas, but are the most common between the tropics. When 
taken, they serve for excellent food. 

In calm weather, I have constantly seen the pilot-fish 
{Gasterosteus ductor, Lin.) at our stern. These fish 

* Humboldt. 



CANARY ISLANDS. 17 

derive their" name from the fact that they follow vessels to 
seize upon whatever may drop from them ; and as a similar 
habit is observed in the shark, it has been said that these 
small fishes serve as a guide to it. They are of a bluish 
color, having broad bands running transversely across their 
sides, of a much deeper hue, and are seldom found more 
than ten or twelve inches in length. They are considered 
by some as excellent food, 

Tuesday, July 16th, 1833. 



2* 



LETTER IV. 



Voyage to Teneriffe Continued. 

We progress in our voyage with every success that 
could be anticipated. The weather has been fine and 
agreeable, except in the night of the 21st instant, when 
we were visited, at midnight, by a torrent of rain. The 
lightning gleamed with awful and vivid flashes, and the 
thunder rolled in quick successive peals from clouds imme- 
diately over our heads. The morning following, the 
clouds had passed away, and pleasant gales, as usual, con- 
tinued to waft us along. 

The flying-fish are still seen skipping over the dark-blue 
waves, and occasionally I catch a glimpse of the parrot-fish, 
commonly, but improperly called the dolphin, which is 
quite another sort of fish, (Delphinus delphis, Lin.) and 
belongs to the whale family. The parrot-fish (Coryphcena 
ccETulecL LiN.) has a head of an odd structure, resembling 
that of the spermaceti whale. The mouth is small, and 
each mandible is armed v/ith a single row of even 
teeth, so that they appear to be entire bones. Its irides 
are of a bright red ; on the back is a long fin indented 
on the edge ; behind the gills are two more fins ; also 
one under the abdomen, and another near the extreme 
end. The tail is forked, and the color of the whole 
fish, when alive, is entirely blue. It is taken in great 
abundance on the coast of the Bahama Islands, and 
is found in most of the seas between the tropics. It is 
considered by some, as delicate food. 

Scarcely any other beings endowed with life, have 
come under notice, except petrels and sternge, or sea- 
swallows. The last appellation takes its name from their 
excessively long and pointed wings, and from their forked 



20 CANARY ISLANDS. 

tail, which renders their flight and carriage analogous to 
those of swallows. Their bills are pointed, compressed, 
and straight, without curve or projection ; their nostrils, 
situated near the base of the bill, are oblong and pierced 
quite through ; the membranes that unite their toes, are 
deeply emarginate, in consequence of which, they swim 
but seldom. They fly over the waves in every direction 
with great velocity, uttering, at the same time, shrill cries, 
and skilfully dipping from the water mollusca and small 
fishes upon which they feed. 

The petrils are particularly designated by sailors under 
the name of Mother Carey's Chickens. They are also 
sometimes called Storm Finches, Stormy Petrels, and 
Devil's Birds. The most common species on the Atlantic 
is the Thalassidroma wilsonii of Bonapart. It is about 
the size of a common swallow, and has the general appear- 
ance of that bird. Its color is brown, except the rump, 
which is white, and a white line on the end of the great 
wing-coverts. At all seasons they keep far out at sea, and 
often skip along the hollows of the waves with incredible 
swiftness, and sometimes light upon their summits, braving 
the utmost fury of the tempests. As they appear to run on 
the surface of the water, which they effect by the aid of 
their wings, they are called petrels, from the allusion of 
Peter's walking on the water. 

^' These petrels are said to breed in great numbers on the 
rocky shores of the Bahama and the Bermuda Islands, 
and along some parts of East Florida and Cuba. Mr. 
Audubon informs me^ that they also breed in large flocks 
on the mud and sand islands ofl* Cape Sable, in Nova 
Scotia, burrov\'ing downward from the surface to the depth 
of a foot or more. They also employ the holes and cavi- 
ties of rocks near the sea for this purpose. The eggs, 
according to Mr. Audubon, are three, white and translu- 
cent. After the period of incubation, they return to feed 
their young only during the night, with the oily food which 
they raise from their stomachs. At these times they are 
heard through most part of the night, making a continued 

Professor Nuttall. 



C A N A R Y I S L A N D S . 21 

cluttering sound like frogs. In June and July, or about 
the time that they breed, they are still seen out at sea for 
scores of leagues from the land, the swiftness of their flight 
allowing them daily to make their vast excursions in quest 
of their ordinary prey ; and hence, besides their suspicious 
appearance in braving storms, as if aided by the dark 
Ruler of the air, they breed, according to the vulgar opin- 
ion of sailors, like no other honest bird, for, taking no time 
for the purpose on land, they merely hatch their egg under 
their wings, as they sit on the w^ater. 

^^ The food of this species, according to Wilson, appears 
to consist, as he says, of the gelatinous spora of the Gulf- 
weed (Fucus natans, Lin.) as well as small fish, barna- 
cles, and probably many small mollusca. Their flesh is 
rank, oily, and unpleasant to the taste. Their food is 
even converted into oil by the digestive process, and they 
abound with it to such a degree, that according to Brun- 
nick, the inhabitants of the Fero Isles make their carcases 
to serve the purpose of a candle, by drawing a wick through 
the mouth and rump, which being lighted, the flame is for 
a considerable time supported by the fat and oil of the 
body.^"' 

In passing over the vast and watery deep, it is w^ondered 
why its inhabitants do not more frequently exhibit them- 
selves ; for often whole days pass by without observing 
anything possessed w ith life, and even weeks, except now 
and then a shoal of porpoises, making their *^ uncouth 
gambols'' around the bow of our vessel, and the grampus 
slowly throwing his unwieldy form above the w^ater, or the 
voracious shark, darting like a spectre just below its sur- 
face. But when we reflect on the immensity of the ocean, 
of its immeasurable depths, wiiich probably extend as far 
below its surface as the highest of our mountains are ele- 
vated above it, and when we consider that its bottom is 
diversified with mountains, valleys and plains, how vast are 
the spaces susceptible of aflfording adaptation and suste- 
nance to countless tribes of beings. And when we look 
around us, we see every mountain and marsh, every wil- 
derness and w^ood, teeming with myriads of living crea- 
tures, all adapted to their respective situations^ and pos- 



23 CANARY ISLANDS. 

sessed with their proper instincts and enjoyments. And 
if we admit that 

" Full many a gem of purest ray serene 
The dark unfathomed caves of ocean bear," 

we must allow from the analogy of reason, that innu- 
merable classes of animals inhabit this vast abyss, thous- 
ands of which, never have appeared to the eye of man. 
And yet, who is there that can doubt the existence of an 
outre monster of the deep, when deduced from creditable 
authority ? Who is there that has ever descended these 
briny floods, and rambled about the '^ mermaid's cells," 
the '^ triton's halls," and the ^^ sea-nymph's coral bov/ers," 
to explore and enrol the wonders of the mighty deep? 
According to Kircher, the celebrated diver, Pescecola, 
whom the emperor Frederic II. employed to descend into 
the Straits of Messina, saw there with horror, enormous 
polypi attached to the rocks, the arms of which, being 
several yards long, were sufficient to strangle a man. If 
this can be credited, we have as much reason to believe in 
the present existence of the sea-serpent, of the great levia* 
than, or of the behemoth, 

Tuesday, July 23, 1833, 



LETTER V. 

Voyage to Teneriffe Continued. 



At length, wafted by propitious gales, we begin to 
approach our destined haven. Since my last date, the 
weather has been incomparably delightful, and each day 
closed by evenings of tranquil beauty. The vivid colors 
which gild the setting sun, the fantastic forms that mark 
the golden clouds, and the sublimities of a starlight even- 
ing at sea, inspire emotions sufficient to compensate the 
most reluctant voyager for all the endurances of an Atlan- 
tic passage. 

On the morning of the 5th instant, we observed the Isle 
of Madeira eight or ten leagues to the south of us, the sum- 
mit of which, was distinctly seen above the clouds that 
were hanging about its sides ; and low in the south-east 
were to be seen the peaked tops of Porto Santo just peep- 
ing above the horizon. We slowly glided along during 
the day, and the next morning were in sight of the 
Dasertas, which lay a few leagues to the southward. At 
our left hand was Porto Santo displaying its ragged sum- 
mits, and near by, at our right, Madeira, which exhibited 
to us a friendly look, and seemed once more to reconnect 
us with our mother earth. It wore a truly pleasing and 
picturesque appearance as we passed by. The top of the 
mountain was incessantly enveloped in light cumulous 
clouds ; its sides, peculiarly broken and rugged, consisted 
of dark arid ridges, destitute of verdure, alternated by 
deep fertile valleys. At the bottom of the descent was the 
city of Funchal, in the vicinity of which, were innumerable 
sloping vineyards, interspersed with gentlemens' seats, and 
the more humble huts of the vine-dressers, whose whit- 
ened walls conspicuously diversified the face of nature. 



24 CANARY ISLANDS. 

For some evenings past, I have observed an Immense 
number of shooting stars, leaving behind them a sparkling 
train. As we advanced southward, they appeared to 
increase in brilliancy and in numbers. The same fact 
was observed by Humboldt, who remarks that these me- 
teors are more common and more luminous in certain 
regions of the earth than in others. He has nowhere seen 
them more frequent, than in the vicinity of the volcanoes 
of Quito and in that part of the South Sea which washes 
the shores of Guatimala. Between the tropics, and in fact 
all warm climates, they generally leave a train behind them, 
which sometimes remains luminous for ten or twelve 
seconds. At other timers, they seem to explode and dis- 
charge thousands of brilliant sparks. They are much 
lower here than in high latitudes, and are very seldom seen 
beneath a cloud. They are most frequently observed in 
clear, serene weather, and move in the direction which 
the wind blows ; but this is not always the case, for I have 
noticed them when the sky was totally overcast, and to 
move in various directions about the same time, and in 
one instance I observed one in the day-time, which passed 
between me and a dark-blue cloud. 

Although these shooting or falling stars are a common 
phenomenon, their great distance and transient nature 
have hitherto frustrated every attempt to ascertain their 
cause. However, the connection of these meteors with an 
active state of the atmospheric electricity, is certain from 
observation ; and we have more reason to consider them 
as electric sparks, than as solid or fluid matter in the act 
of combustion. 

During most of the time this week back, we have been 
visited by light baffling winds, and often by perfect calms, 
w^hich afforded me at times, no small share of amusement. 
Every body who has been at sea, has heard sailors whistle 
during a calm, in order to '^ raise the wind," which many 
of them attribute to the agency of some unknown power ; 
but some of our modern theorists impute it to a certain 
sympathy existing between the air and the sound resem- 
bling that of the whistling of the wind. 

It is a well known fact in acoustics, that harmonic 
sounds may be effected by a sympathetic action conveyed 



CANARY ISLANDS. 25 

by the air ; for example — ^' a body of singers with great 
power of voice, are able to break into pieces a large tum- 
bler glass, by singing close to it its proper fundamental 
note ; and it is from the same sympathetic communication 
of vibrations, that two pendulum clocks fixed to the same 
wall, or two watches lying upon the same table, will take 
the same rate of going, though they would not agree with 
one another, if placed in separate apartments. Mr. Elli- 
cott even observed, that the pendulum of the one clock 
will stop that of the other ; and that the stopped pendulum 
will, after a certain time, resume its vibrations, and in its 
turn, stop the vibrations of the other pendulum." * To a 
similar cause they will say, may be attributed an increase 
of wind from the sympathy existing between the air and 
the whistling sound resembling that of the wind. 

Thursday, August 8, 1833. 



*Dr. Brewster. 



LETTER VI. 



Arrival at Orotava 



Early on the morning of the 10th instant, we had 
approached the island of Teneriffe, sufficiently near to 
discern trees, houses and vineyards, and the Peak of Teyde, 
illuminated by the earliest rays of the sun, was seen just 
over our heads. Before we had come within a league's 
distance of the port, we were hailed by the custom-house 
authorities, who, after making the usual inquiries, and 
receiving our passports, pronounced upon us a quarantine 
of eight days, and ordered us to anchci a mile from the 
shore, with the privilege of landing at the lazaretto as often 
as might be necessary. Here we remain anchored in 40 
fathoms of water, enjoying a cool sea-breeze of 75^, while 
on shore the thermometer indicates a temperature of 86^ 
in the shade, and from 100^ to 120^ in the sun. 

On first descrying the features of a new country, one 
cannot express the emotions with which he is inspired. 
His eyes are wont to glance with eagerness upon the many 
objects that are brought to view, and amidst his agitation, 
everything, although regarded as common before, now 
wears the aspect of something new ; but after he becomes 
more familiar with them, they assume their true character, 
and he can hardly conceive them to be the same. 

On first reaching the shore, I was particularly struck 
with the singular appearance of the Euphorbia canariensis 
of Linnaeus. It is an herbaceous perennial shrub, sending 
forth slender succulent stalks from ten to twelve feet in 
length, and having from four to five sides, armed with sharp 
prickles. It puts forth quadrupetalous flowers of a white- 
ish or yellow color, and its light green stalks form an 



28 CANARY ISLANDS. 

agreeable contrast with the dark stones and earth upon 
which it usually grows. 

All the shores and ravines in this vicinity are lined with 
basalts and other igneous rocks, in which may be found 
crystals of hornblende, and in some instances, olivine and 
transparent pyroxene, the latter occurring generally, in 
six-sided prisms, and of an olive-green tint. I observed, 
also, large quantities of volcanic sand along the shore, con- 
taining minute fragments of the same materials as the 
neighboring rocks are composed. From the reverberation 
of this sand, and the black, arid rocks with which the 
shores of this island are formed, may be imputed the 
intense heat to which they are exposed. This sand, in the 
middle of a hot day, is insupportable to the hands or bare 
feet for any length of time. 

From the hazy state of the atmosphere, we did not dis- 
cern the Peak before the 9th instant, at mid-day, which 
was then at sixty miles' distance. When it first came un- 
der our observation, the horizon below it, as far as the eye 
could reach, exhibited only a wide expanse of water, so 
that the summit appeared like a thin blue vapor, till its 
stationary position fixed our attention. It was soon con- 
cealed from view, and was seen no more until half past 
three in the afternoon, when its conical head was tower- 
ing far above the clouds. I now availed myself of making 
a trigonometrical measurement of its height, which I did 
by throwing the log, and noting the velocity of the vessel, 
and the time it sailed between two stations, to determine 
a base ; and employed two vertical angles of the summit of 
the Peak, one at each station. By my calculation I found 
it to be elevated 12,352 feet above the ocean, which is 
considerably more than the average measurements that 
have been made by different observers, showing at once 
the uncertainty of this mode of measurement of mountains. 

For want of other matters of interest, I may here take a 
glance of the physical observations since my departure, 
relating to the air and the ocean, with some remarks from 
other sources. 

Temperature of the Air.— The great basin of the 
Northern Atlantic Ocean, between Europe, Africa, and 



CANARY ISLANDS. 29 

America, exhibits very different degrees of temperature, 
but very slow in its changes. In passing from Sandy 
Hook to this place the increase of temperature has been 
only 3-5°. The maximum observed during the voyage 
was 82°, the minimum 73°, with a mean of 76*1°. Hum- 
boldt, in travelling from Spain to South America, in July, 
1799, observed a gradual increase from 50° to 77°, the 
maximum being only 79-9°. In comparing the observa- 
tions of several navigators, I find that the thermometer has 
not been known to rise, in the open air at sea, above 93° 
in any place between the tropics of either hemisphere ; 
while in corresponding latitudes of the continents of Asia, 
Africa and America, it attains a temperature of 120°, 130°, 
and even 140°. 

The gradual increase of temperature during a voyage 
from the temperate to the torrid zone, is highly conducive 
to the health of voyagers, as it prepares them, by degrees, 
for the intense heat which they have to encounter. This 
change is attributed, in a measure, to the evaporation of 
the water, increased by the wind and the waves, together 
with the property possessed by transparent liquids of ab- 
sorbing very little light at their surface. 

Temperature of the Sea. — From New York to this 
place, the temperature of the ocean has been, in general, 
uniform in its increase, although inequalities have occur- 
red, caused by the Gulf Stream. The mean temperature 
has been 74-4o • maximum 80^, and minimum 665^, In 
the inter-tropical seas, there is everywhere a great uni- 
formity in the maximum of heat, which varies, according 
to Humboldt, from 82^ to 84-5o. This proves that the 
ocean is in general warmer than the atmosphere in direct 
contact with it, the mean temperature of which, near the 
equator, is from 78*80 to 80'6o. As sea-water is a bad 
conductor of heat, its temperature changes less suddenly 
and less easily than that of the atmosphere ; hence the 
cause of its uniformity. Besides, the visible solar rays 
cannot heat the bottom of the sea, as they penetrate only 
to the depth of about 700 feet. Beyond that limit, the sea 
receives no more light. The temperature of the depth of 
the ocean would appear, then, to follow that of the tempe- 
rs 



30 CANARY ISLANDS. 

rature of the interior of the globe in different latitudes. 
But it has been proved by experiments, that the tempera- 
ture of the sea, at great depths, diminishes in a constant 
progression ; from which fact, some philosophers have 
maintained that the bottom of the ocean is actually a bed 
of ice. But, unfortunately for them. Count Rumford has 
shown by experiment, that ice is always formed at the sur- 
face of the water, and that, except to a certain extent 
within the polar regions, it cannot exist at the bottom of 
the ocean. 

Intensity of the Color of the Sky. — In travelling 
from the higher latitudes to the torrid zone, I have re- 
peatedly observed an increase of the azure tint of the sky, 
and in the same parallel, fainter at sea than when on land. 
The latter circumstance is owing to the quantity of aque- 
ous vapor which is constantly rising from the ocean to the 
upper regions of the atmosphere. Hence, in all latitudes, 
the intensity of the color of the sky diminishes from the 
zenith to the horizon, and this nearly in arithmetical pro- 
gression. 

Color of the Sea. — The color of the sea varies very 
much in appearance, but it is generally of a deep, bluish- 
green, which becomes less intense as we approach the 
coasts. This apparent color of the sea may be attributed 
to the same causes that impart the blue shade to the dis- 
tant mountains, and to the sky its azure hue. The other 
shades in the color of the sea, depend on causes which 
are local, and sometimes illusory. It is said that the Medi- 
terranean, in its upper part, sometimes assumes a purple 
tint. In the Gulf of Guinea, the sea has a whitish ap- 
pearance, and around the Maldive Islands, it is black. 
The Vermeille, or Vermillion Sea, near California, has 
received its name from the red color which it bears. I 
have observed a phenomenon similar to the latter about 
the coast of Florida. 

Humboldt observes, in his travels from Spain to South 
America, that in fine calm weather, the color of the sea 
was found to be equal to 33°, 38^, and sometimes 44*^ of 
Saussure's cyanometer, although the sky was very pale, 



CANARY ISLANDS. 31 

and scarcely attained 14^ or 15^. ^^ When, instead of di- 
recting the apparatus to a great extent of open sea, the 
observer fixes his eyes on a small part of its surface viewed 
through a narrow aperture, the water appears of a rich 
ultra-marine color. Towards evening, again, when the 
edge of the waves, as the sun shines upon them, is of an 
emerald green, the surface of the shaded side reflects a 
purple hue. Nothing is more striking than the changes 
which the color of the sea undergoes under a clear sky, in 
the midst of the ocean and in deep water, when it may be 
seen passing from indigo-blue to the deepest green, and 
from this to slate-gray. The blue is almost independent 
of the reflection of the atmosphere. The inter-tropical 
seas are, in general, of a deeper and purer tint than those 
of high latitudes, and the ocean often remains blue, when 
in fine weather, more than four-fifths of the sky are cover- 
ed with light and scattered clouds of a white color." 

At anchor in Cluarantine, Port Orotava, ) 
Thursday, August 15, 1833. j 



LETTER VII. 



Excursion to Santa Cruz. 



Having just obtained my emancipation, I am happy once 
more to enjoy the sweets of freedom. On the 18th instant, 
at mid-day, I was released from quarantine, and conducted 
by some soldiers directly to the Governor of this port, 
who ordered me to present myself, immediately, before the 
Governor Gfeneral, at Santa Cruz which is situated about 
thirty miles from here. It being impracticable to reach 
that place on that evening, ray journey was postponed 
until the next day. Early the ensuing morning I set off 
on horseback, and just after leaving this town, ascended a 
steep hill, in a winding direction ; and all of a sudden 
there burst upon me a most charming view of the Valley 
of Orotava. The scene before me was so enchanting, that 
a description of it, to bear even a faint resemblance, would 
appear like romance. It consists of an elevated slope, 
containing about four square leagues, and is abruptly 
hemmed on three sides by a range of lofty mountains 
which intersect the island. The other side is bounded by 
the ocean, the shores of which are bold and precipitous at 
all points, and are constantly dashed by the snow-white 
surf Numerous rivulets and springs gush forth from the 
foot of the mountains, and after rushing down the ravines 
and forming beautiful cascades, are employed in irrigating 
and fertilizing the soil, and in turning mills. 

This broad champaign is interspersed with compact 
villas and detached dwellings, which are encompassed by 
vineyards and corn-fields, that yield at once the choicest 
and the most varied fruits. In short, " it is a vast garden, 
decked out in aromatic groves, which realize the heau 
ideal of Paradise.'' There can be but few spots on the 



34 CANARY ISLANDS. 

globe that present a spectacle more beautifully romantic 
and wildly picturesque than the Valley of Orotava. 

After an hour's ride over a fertile plain, I commenced 
ascending the mountain in a zig-zag manner, and con- 
tinued my way to Laguna over a rough, narrow road, 
which, in many places, was almost impassible. The only 
settlements between this place and Laguna, are the ham- 
lets of Santa Ursula, Vittoria, and Matanzas, the two lat- 
ter names, (victory and slaughter,) notorious in occurring 
together in most Spanish provinces, create an unpleasant 
contrast with the peace and quietude which these c&lonies 
usually inspire. In pursuing my route, I observed on the 
left, along the sea-shore, numerous date-trees, (Phcenix 
dactylifera. Lin.) and farther up, groups of the orange 
and the banana. The more precipitous parts of the de- 
scent were covered with vines and peach-trees, richly 
laden with fruit, while the more level portions were planted 
wdth grain and other vegetables. The fields were fre- 
quently separated by hedges of the prickly pear, (Cactus 
opuntia. Lin.) and the American aloes, (Agave ameri' 
cana. Ltn.) The latter, when vigorous, sometimes rises 
to the height of sixty feet, and branches out on every side, 
so as to form a kind of pyramid of greenish yellow flowers, 
which stand erect, and come out at every joint. As a 
hedge, its hardy lance-like leaves render it totally impene- 
trable to man and beast. When pressed, the light blue 
leaves yield a thick juice, which, with lye-ashes, is formed 
into balls and used as soap. The peasantry of these islands 
soak them in water, and beat them with mallets, as flax or 
hemp, and afterwards spin the lignum into coarse thread, 
suitable for making lines and small cordage of a very 
strong and durable quality. 

In travelling from Laguna to Santa Cruz, the only 
plants that I observed were the Euphorbia canariensis, the 
Cacalia kleinia, and the Cactus opuntia. The road was 
steep and difficult, in many places, and appeared to be 
formed of the debris of an ancient current oif lava from the 
Peak. My horse moved with a snail-like pace, and slipped 
at every rod. At length, after a considerable fatigue, I 
reached a small plain near a beautiful stone bridge, thrown 
across a deep ravine, and shortly after arrived at the place 



CANARY ISLANDS. 35 

of my destination. The evening being too far advanced 
to prosecute the object of my journey, it was deferred. 
The next morning I presented myself to the Governor 
General, who, after passing a few civilities, gave me per- 
mission to examine the whole island, and kindly offered 
me assistance whenever required. I passed the remainder 
of the day in viewing the town, and in examining the cliffs 
in its vicinity. 

Santa Cruz is a pleasant town of considerable extent, 
containing, according to the last census, 6,400 inhabitants. 
It has less appearance of poverty than this place, although 
I was constantly assailed by the most importunate beggars. 
A friend pointed out to me the exact spot where Nelson 
experienced the only failure of his glorious career. No 
one who has ever read of this memorable conflict could 
gaze upon this spot without being possessed with feelings 
of peculiar interest. 

After a comfortable night's rest, I set off yesterday morn- 
ing about eight o'clock, under a burning sun, from Santa 
Cruz for this place. On my road to Laguna, I met a 
drove of white camels, (Camelus dromedarius. Lin.) em- 
ployed in conveying produce to the town. The monoto- 
nous tinkling of their bells, their slowly-measured pace 
and lethargic countenances, all of which were exactly in 
unison with the listless heat, and the sun-scorched hills, 
bearing now and then a cluster of succulent plants, which 
receive their nourishment from the air rather than the soil, 
strongly impressed me that the aspect of these islands 
belongs to Africa, and to the most arid part of it. 

I pursued my way on horse-back as far as Matanzas, and 
performed the remainder of my journey on foot, in order 
to examine the geology of the rout more minutely. In 
descending the ravines to the sea-side, I observed that the 
lowermost stratum consisted of huge masses of yellowish- 
brown columnar basaltes, somewhat irregular in their 
forms. Directly above them were strata of breccia?, 
resembling volcanic tufa. They contained fragments of 
the same basaltes that they covered, and often recent ter- 
restrial shells ; and it is asserted, that the remains of ma- 
rine productions are observed in them. Next in succes- 
sion above, was a stratum of ferruginous earth, overlaid 



36 CANARY ISLANDS. 

with a dark argillaceous soil, containing crystals of pyrox- 
ene, and fragments of compact lava. 

I arrived here late last evening, lame and worn out with 
fatigue ; and to-day have taken up my residence during 
my stay in this place with Mr. Alfred Diston, an English 
merchant, a gentleman no less distinguished for general 
information than for the friendly services which he has 
rendered scientific men who have visited these regions. 

Port Orotava, Wednesday, ) 
August 22, 1833. \ 



LETTER VIII 



First Ascent of the Peak. 



After arranging the necessary preliminaries, I set off 
for the Peak on the SOth instant, before the break of day, 
accompanied by ten persons, principally professional and 
mercantile men of this island, each of us attended by a 
guide, or rather such as professed to be our guides. Al- 
though born within two leagues of the mountain, most of 
them had never been induced by the excitement of curi- 
osity to ascend from their native valley to the '^ regions 
of barren grandeur above them." 

We pursued our course along the sea-shore for a league 
or more, till we reached Realejo de Abaxo, shortly after 
which, we commenced ascending the lofty mountain of 
Tygayga passing by the straggling hamlet of Ycod del 
Alto ; and after attaining the height of about 4000 feet, 
we halted a few moments in order to view the surrounding 
scenery. We were situated on the brink of a precipice 
where we could look down more than 2000 feet nearly 
perpendicularly, which, at first sight, would make a person 
of ordinary nerves, shudder. The cold had sensibly 
increased, the mercury having sunk to 57°, and the vegeta- 
tion and genera] aspect of things had totally changed, bear- 
ing quite another character from those in the valley below. 
We continued to ascend over regions distinguished by 
their peculiar vegetation until eight o'clock, w^hen we 
reached Las Canadas, or Los Llanos de Retama, which 
are remarkable for bearing a profusion of broom, (Spartium 
nuhigenum. Lix.) called by the natives, la retama. It is 
a woody shrub, ramifying close to the earth, and sends 
forth numerous tufted branches to the height of nine or ten 
feet. It is an ever-green, varying from light-blue to pale- 
4 



38 CANARY ISLANDS. 

green, forming a beautiful contrast with its white papiliona* 
ceous flowers which emit an agreeable odor, and are very 
productive in honey. During the season of their bloom, 
the natives transport their hives of bees to the distance of 
several leagues, that they raay extract the nectary, and 
likewise to prevent them from puncturing the grape which 
is in an immature state at this period. The retama grows 
in the midst of a vast field of ashes and pumice-stones, which 
encircles the Peak, and which is generally ranked by 
botanists as its highest zone of vegetation, although there 
are a few species of gramineous and cryptogamous plants 
growing amongst it, and even some of the latter are found 
on the most elevated parts of the mountain. 

In passing over a small plain destitute of vegetation, 
which appeared to have been inundated during the rainy 
seasons, I observed a flock of wild goats, (Capra Jiircus, 
Lin.) the species of which, has run wild on the Peak for 
centuries, and has subsisted on the boughs of the retama. 
From this place we travelled more than a league over a 
sterile tract, composed almost entirely of small fragments 
of pumice-stones and ashes, which were constantly pelting 
our faces by the cold south-west wind that was blowing 
directly against us. The latter portion of these llanos 
became more steep, and bore scarcely any marks of vegeta- 
tion, and huge masses of feldspathic lava, lay scattered 
up and down. On leaving Las Canadas, the way became 
very rugged and difficult of ascent, so much so, that our 
mules were scarcely able to sustain their burdens. How- 
ever, after a great deal of patience and fatigue, we arrived 
at La Estancia de los Yngleses, at two o'clock in the after- 
noon, where we pitched our tent for the night. Here the 
mountain became less steep, and contained some rocks of 
lava, of an incredible size, which evidently were dis- 
charged from the crater at some remote period. They 
served to break off the winds which blew with biting keen- 
ness from the south-west, rendering this the most com- 
fortable resting-place that the mountain aflbrds. After 
refreshing myself with food and repose, I employed myself 
the remainder of the evening in making observations. 

My principal object in ascending this mountain, was to 
make an adm.easurement of its height, and also of several 



CANARY ISLANDS. 39 

Other points between its summit and the ocean, in order 
to ascertain the elevation at which certain species of 
vegetation can exist in these latitudes. My barometer 
having become impaired during the ascent, I was obliged 
to resort to the thermometrical barometer which consists 
of nothing more than immersing a common thermometer 
into boiling-hot water, which will cause the mercury to 
rise in proportion to the specific gravity of the atmosphere. 
At the level of the ocean, the boiling point of Fahrenheit's 
scale is 212° ; but as we ascend into the air, it gradually 
decreases, which depends, in a measure, on the humidity 
and temperature of the air. In making experiments of 
this kind, many precautions are necessary. It is im- 
portant to have the instrument properly constructed, and 
to make use of pure water. Care should also be observed 
with regard to communicating the instrument to the water, 
and to the time after it commences boiling.* 

At a quarter past seven in the evening, the thermometer 
stood at 53°, and on being immersed into boiling-hot 
water, the mercury indicated a depression of 17*5o below 
the boiling point at the level of the ocean, which gives an 
elevation of about 9800 feet above the sea. After enjoy- 
ing a delicious view of the nocturnal scenery and the 
rising moon, I retired to the tent in order to pass the night 
in tranquillity and silence ; but our merry guides were 
seated round an enormous fire revelling over the fragments 
of a wild goat, and kept up their noisy mirth during the 
night with so much enthusiasm, that neither threats nor 
persuasion would induce them to be quiet. I remained in 
the camp until midnight, trying to catch a moment's 
repose, but finding my efforts in vain, I was forced to dis- 
card all thoughts of sleep, and rose to prepare for the 
ascent. From the diminution of the weight of the atmos- 
phere, combined with other circumstances, several of us 
were affected with nausea, vertigo, hemorrhage, and a uni- 
versal uneasiness. Our pulse " did not beat, but flutter ; " 
and so feeble as to be hardly perceived. Every breath of 



*For an account of an improved instrument of this kind constructed by Rev. 
F. J H. WoUaston, see the Philosophical Transactions for 1817, p. 183. 



40 CANARY ISLANDS. 

air that we inhaled, seemed to pierce the lungs like a 
stinging instrument. 

After haranguing with our guides for two tedious hours, 
we recommenced our march over a way more steep than 
ever, so much so that we were obliged to abandon our 
mules, and perform the remainder of the distance on foot. 
At half past two, we arrived at xllta Vista, where the ther- 
mometer indicated a temperature of 47°, and the wind 
blew directly from the north. From this place, we com- 
menced the most difficult and the most arduous part of our 
ascent, climbing over huge, precipitous crags of lava, 
which were sharp and rasping to the fingers, and to the 
soles of our shoes. At half past three, we reached La 
Cueva del Yelo, a subterranean glacier, from which we 
procured some excellent water. Here the wind blew 
again from the south-west, and the mercury had risen to 
48^. After two hours' climbing over a vast and almost 
perpendicular tract of lava, attended with much toil and 
danger, we reached La Rambleta, where there was for- 
merly a small platform surrounding the Piton, or sugar- 
loaf; but now, the debris thrown from the crater, have 
almost obliterated its outline. On our way thither, those 
of our company who had not the precaution to bring 
with them gloves and a sufficient quantity of clothing, 
were complaining bitterly of the cold, and of bloody fin- 
gers. The wind still continued to blow from the south- 
west, and the mercury had sunk to 41 o. At the rising of 
the sun, we commenced climbing the sugar-loaf which is 
covered with loose ashes and pumice, and so steep that it 
would have been almost impracticable to ascend it, had 
there not been an old current of lava to aid our footsteps. 
At half past seven, we attained the summit of this cele- 
brated mountain, where the wind blew a tremendous hur- 
ricane from the south-west, and disenabled us to stand 
without supporting ourselves by a lance, or clinging to the 
walls of the crater. Most of the lower regions were inter- 
cepted by a stratum of white clouds exactly resembling the 
ocean, foaming with its utmost agitation. The sulphure- 
ous stench and suffocating vapors impelled most of my 
companions to descend immediately after reaching the brink 



CANARY ISLANDS. 41 

of the crater. We immediately prepared for observation, 
and with some difficulty, struck up a fire on the leeward 
side near the top of the highest pinnacle. 

Observations. — Temperature of the atmosphere on the 
top of the Peak, 72° ; at six feet above, 39^ ; tem_perature 
of boiling hot-water, 190o. On thrusting a lance into the 
crater to the depth of a foot, and introducing the ther- 
mometer, the mercury instantaneously rose to 220^, the 
extent of its graduation. The plate of the instrument 
accumulated, from the vapor which issued from the aper- 
ture, some drops of liquid that had a powerful corroding 
effect. It is highly probable that these vapors contain 
muriatic or sulphuric acid ; or the corrosion of the plate of 
the instrument was caused by sulphuretted hydrogen com- 
ing in contact with it. Sound was greatly diminished 
when made with the same efforts as below ; the compass was 
not at all agitated. From the disagreeable and nauseous 
effect of the sulphureous exhalations of the volcano, and 
the difficulty of breathing, we were under the necessity of 
suspending further observation, and descended, as soon as 
practicable, to La Cueva del Yelo, where we stopped 
and refreshed ourselves, took its dimensions, and the 
temperature of the water w^hich it contained. It is entered 
' by an irregular aperture of about eight feet in diameter, 
and is fifteen feet deep, twenty-five wide, and as far as 
penetrated, two hundred feet in length. Its bottom is a 
solid bed of ice covered with pure crystalline water about 
a foot deep, having a temperature of 41°. During winter, 
this cavern is filled with ice and snow ; and as the rays of 
the sun do not penetrate beyond its mouth, the heats of 
summer are insufficient to empty the reservoir. There is 
a tradition amongst the natives here, that the water in this 
cave was formerly unfathomable, and that it ebbed and 
flowed with the sea. 

At mid-day, we returned to La Estancia, where we over- 
took our other companions. Overpowered with fatigue, 
and affected with an unaccountable perturbation of mind, 
I was unable to proceed any further without relief The 
cause of my illness was soon discovered, and after being 
removed, we continued our descent over Las Cafiadas, and 
passing through a narrow defile, between two basaltic hills, 
4^ 



42 CANARY ISLANDS. 

passing through a narrow defile, between two basaltic hills, 
called El Portillo, and partook of an excellent dinner in a 
grove of chesnuts situated in the higher regions of the 
Valley of Orotava, and at six o'clock last evening, we 
reached this place, where the freshness of the air, with the 
melody of a hundred songsters that were perched among 
the creeping plants, whose flowers diffused an aromatic 
odor, formed the most delightful contrast with the desolate 
and inhospitable regions from which we had returned. 

Port Orotava, Saturday, \ 
August 31, 1833. ' \ 



LETTER IX. 



Second Ascent of the Peak. 



After having a day's rest, I again set off for the Peak, 
in order to accomplish my intended observations. The 
weather was clear and serene, and I commenced my jour- 
ney under every auspicious omen. I proceeded to Realejo 
de Abaxo, and shortly after, ascended the mountain of 
Tygayga, where the botany was exceedingly interesting. 
Towards evening, I crossed Las Cafiadas, and with little 
difficulty, reached La Estancia de los Yngleses at six 
o'clock, where I met M. Despreau, of Paris, and his 
attendants, who was ascending the Peak in order to make 
some astronomical observations. Here we passed the night 
in the open air near a large hre which our guides con- 
structed v.'ith branches of the retama. Though in a torrid 
country, and under the brilliant sky of Africa, vre suffered 
extremely from the cold during the night. At the break 
of day, we mounted our mules and proceeded with some 
difficulty as far as Alta Vista, where I learned that M. 
Despreau had met with a fall and disenabled himself so 
much, that he was unable to ascend, and had returned to 
La Estancia. Being excessively fatigued, and affected 
with nausea, I found it prudent to return also, and defer 
my journey. At La Estancia, I lay down upon the dry 
earth, throwing my cloak over me, and enjoyed two or 
three hours' undisturbed repose, which greatly relieved me 
from my illness and fatigue. 

Observations. — The upper regions of the sky were 
perfectly clear ; no wind ; the moon and stars very bril- 
liant. Mercury and Venus, in particular, appeared 



44 CANARY ISLANDS. 

brighter than I ever saw them before. Below my feet, 
over Las Cafiadas, there was a sea of white clouds appar- 
ently rolling against the mountain. The tops of the 
lesser hills were jutting out of the clouds resembling small 
islands. Temperature of the atmosphere at three o'clock 
in the morning, 48°. 

At nine o'clock, I took my leave of M. Despreau and 
descended to the mountain of Tygayga where I was envel- 
oped in a thick stratum of clouds so dense, that I could 
scarcely distinguish one object from another. The retama 
and other shrubs were shedding water so profusely, that it 
run down the mountain in continued rills. This may lead 
us to inquire whether the marvellous *' fountain tree '' of 
Hierro did not derive its moisture from a similar cause ? 
I cannot learn, only by tradition, that such a tree ever 
existed there ; although there is no doubt, that in the early 
part of the last century, a tree was blown down and 
destroyed there, from the branches of which, a small degree 
of moisture used to trickle, but so far from being an inhe- 
rent property of the tree, that the same effect would have 
been produced by any other like tree, if placed at the 
mouth of a ravine where a succession of clouds and mists 
are constantly rushing. The tree in question undoubtedly, 
was placed in a similar situation, and by the attraction of 
cohesion, accumulated drops of water which it shed, and 
gave rise to the story of the *' vegetable spring," so zeal- 
ously perused and repeated by the marvellous. 

In passing through the clouds, I observed a phenome- 
non which has often been remarked on high mountains. 
'' Small currents of air chased trains of clouds with unequal 
velocity, and in opposite directions, and bore the appear- 
ance of streamlets of water in rapid motion, in all directions, 
amidst a great mass of stagnant waters. The causes of 
this partial motion of the clouds, are probably very various ; 
we may suppose it to rise from some impulsion at a great 
distance ; from the slight inequalities of the soil, which 
reflect in a greater or less degree, the radiant heat ; from 
a difference of temperature kept up by some chemical 
action, or perhaps from a strong electric charge of the vesi- 
cular vapors." * 

* Humboldt. 



CANARY ISLANDS. 45 

Although the body of the mountain is often wrapped in 
clouds, and the Peak seen above them quite clear, some- 
times the reverse of this happens; the whole body of the 
mountain is distinctly seen, while its summit is covered 
with a thick, white cloud, as with a cap. This is often 
observed in the rinest weather ; and the Spaniards on this 
occasion say. El Pico tiene su somhrello puesto — '' The 
peak has put his little hat on," and look out for rain. 

Towards evening, I descended below the clouds, and 
continued my way down the mountain quite to the sea- 
shore near San Juan de la Rambla, and at the break of 
the mountain, entered a ravine of a frightful aspect, which 
served as an issue to one of the sepulchral caverns of 
the Guanches. I ascended a perpendicular rock nearly 
one hundred feet, where a yawning cave presented itself 
containing an immense quantity of the bones of the abo- 
rigines of this island ; but they were too much decomposed 
to be examined to advantage. They appeared, hov/ever, 
to be generally of a larger size than the bones of the 
Europeans, v/hich coincides with the history of the Guanche 
race. From thence I returned to this place compara- 
tively satisfied with my excursion, although I had not 
accomplished its intended object. 

Port Orotava, Friday, ) 
September 6, 1833. j 



LETTER X. 



Third Ascent of the Peak. 



On the morning of the 9th, at eight o'clock, I set off 
for the third time, to ascend the Peak, with a resolution 
not to return, if possible, until I had perfected my purposed 
objects. I pursued my route as usual, up the mountain of 
Tygayga, and at ten o'clock, entered a den^e body of 
clouds, ^' dark as night,'' through which, I wandered for 
two hours without knowing whether the next moment I 
should be thrown headlong down the neighboring preci- 
pice, or should find some more favorable issue, till all of a 
sudden, the sun burst upon me, and I found myself just 
entering Las Canadas. Soon after I came to the small 
llano at the foot of the mountain, where I stopped and 
refreshed myself, and made some observations on tempera- 
ture, and a rude trigonometrical measurement of the Peak, 
according to which, its elevation above this plain is 5467 
feet. 

From this small plain, I passed through a narrow defile 
hollowed very anciently by the torrents, and about five 
o'clock, I passed into the shadow of the Peak. The atmos- 
phere was remarkably serene during the afternoon, and the 
sun shone with its utmost brilliancy, the light of which, 
created a painful sensation in my eyes. Shortly after 
entering the shadow of the mountain, I observed a phe- 
nomenon which, in former times, would have struck the 
beholder with terror, and would have been regarded as 
the direct agency of supernatural power ; but fortunately for 
myself, science had reduced it to the level of other natural 
phenomena, and I watched it with intense interest and 
admiration. In casting my eye towards the eastern hori- 
zon, I observed, suspended in the air, nearly on a level 



48 



CANARY ISLANDSo 



with myself, a perfect image of the Peak itself, diminished 
in size as if reflected in a convex mirror, having all the 
distinctness and apparent solidity of reality ; not only were 
the light and dark tracts of lava plainly defined, but even 
the very vapors which issue from the crater were rising 
from its summit. 




It remained visible about fifteen minutes, and gradually 
disappeared as the sun went down. At the time of the 
illusion, there was scarcely a breath of wind, and the 
lower regions of the atmosphere over the Valley of Orotava, 
were charged with a horizontal sheet of dense vapors. 
The next day on my return, I learned that the inhabitants 
below had been visited by an extraordinary fall of rain. 

The foregoing phenomenon derived its origin from noth- 
ing more than the image of the Peak projected on the 
humid atmosphere over the ocean, which acted as a con- 
vex mirror, and by well-known laws of refraction and 
reflection, produced the effect above described. The ele- 
vated position of the image may be accounted for by the 
passing of the light from a rarer medium to a denser one ; 
which, to an observer in the rare medium, appears to ele- 
vate objects that are at the bottom of the dense one, as is 
familiarly explained with a piece of money and a bason of 
water. 

-From a similar cause, rose the story of the *' enchanted 
island of San Borondon," which formerly excited so much 
wonder and terror. According to the reveries of pilots 
and certain legends, it was situated in the west, in some 
unknown part of the ocean, buried, as w^as supposed, 
when invisible, in eternal fogs. ^' This land, represented 
to have been governed by an archbishop and six bishops, 



CANARY ISLANDS. 49 

and which Father Feijoo believed to be the image of the 
isle of Hierro, reflected on a fog bank, was ceded in the 
16th century, by the King of Portugal, to Luis Perdigon, 
at the time the latter was preparing to make a conquest of 
it." * It is supposed to have been caused by a peculiar 
humid wind from the W.S.W., which produces an aston- 
ishing effect of m.irage in these latitudes. 

At half past six, I reached La Estancia, where I passed 
the night in the open air and suffered intolerably from the 
cold. But a more glorious evening there never was 
beheld. The sky was not, as seen from the lower regions, 
'^ an ebon concave gemmed with brilliants," but one calm 
expanse of the darkest blue, 

*' So cloudless, pure, and beautiful, 
That God alone was to be seen in heaven." 

The stars shone with peculiar brilliancy, and were 
increased in numbers and in size. The galaxy appeared 
a flame of pure white, and in some parts, was composed 
of clusters of minute stars ; in others, nebulae of the richest 
pearl, gradually blending with the deep-blue sky ; while in 
another part, appeared a delightful vista which seemed to 
lead through the common firmament to regions more ethe- 
rial and more pure. At first, I was astonished at these 
scenes, but when I came to reflect that I had passed 
through ten thousand feet of dense atmosphere, charged 
with vapors, which have a tendency to blunt and confuse 
every ray before it reaches the earth, I was at once con- 
vinced of the cause. 

Ere the dawn of day, I was again on the march, and at 
twilight, arrived at Alta Vista. Here my attention was 
arrested with some curious flashes of light, shooting up 
from the east, resembling small rockets. But soon, how- 
ever, I found them to be nothing but the images of the 
stars, magnified and refracted by the vapors which were at 
that time spread along the horizon. Sometimes these lights 
remained stationary, while at others, they rose perpendicu- 
larly, and then descended laterally to their former position. 

* Humboldt, 



50 CANARY ISLANDS. 

I next proceeded to La Cueva del Yelo, where I 
beheld the beautiful and sublime spectacle of the rising 
sun. After refreshing myself and making some observa- 
tions on temperature, I continued to ascend by degrees, 
having repeated turns of resting, and at ten o'clock, once 
more gained the '' grand summit," where the sublimity of 
the scene was at first almost overwhelming. Far removed 
from every human habitation, and elevated at an immense 
height from the face of the earth, drawn as it were to a 
single point without any intermediate objects, save the 
clouds, for the senses or the imagination to rest upon, and 
recover from their astonishment in their way down to the 
world, it was not until some time that I was capable of 
discriminating and judging of the things that were about 
me. Then to reflect that the very pinnacle upon which I 
was placed, was raised over a bottomless gulf, old as the 
world itself, and often had discharged rivers of liquid fire, 
and flaming rocks, attended with the most dreadful conse- 
quences, I was struck w^ith awe and v/ith horror. Soon, 
however, I collected myself and commenced the object of 
my ascent, and accomplished its full intention. 

At twelve o'clock, I bade adieu to this awful spot, 
inspired with feelings both of pleasure and of pain. I 
descended to La Estancia, making several observations on 
the way, and at two o'clock in the afternoon pursued my 
journey homeward. 

Observations. — During the two hours which I passed 
on the Peak, the face of the sky was intensely serene, and 
of a hue approaching to black.* The rays of the sun fell 
upon me with such potency, that they could be hardly 
endured. The wind was but just perceptible from the 
north-east, and a stratum of white, fleecy clouds w^as spread 
out, concealing all the lower reo;ions, presenting an appear- 
ance exactly resembling an extensive plain covered with 
snow. From the rarified state of the atmosphere, there 
was great difficulty in breathing. Although a deep silence 
prevailed around me, the voices of my guides ceased 



* Humboldt remarks, that the cyanometer indicated an intensity of the sky, of 
41°, at the time he was on the Peak. 



76° 


200^ 


74 


194-5 


70 


192-75 


43 


192 


77 


190-9 


72 


190 


55 





CANARY ISLANDS. 51 

to be heard at the distance of a few hundred feet, 
and efforts that would produce sounds of ordinary inten- 
sity in the regions of common life, made but feeble im- 
pressions. Notwithstanding these disquietudes, I was 
not out of the range of other beings than myself. 
About mid-day, several swallows, (Hirundo apus. Lin.) 
were seen darting across the crater with great celerity, 
and a number of wild bees were collecting spoils from 
the soft mud that covers the summit. 

The following table shows the temperature of the atmos- 
phere, and of boiling-hot water at different points of eleva- 
tion indicated by Fahrenheit's scale. 

Temp, of the Air. Of Hot Water. 
At the small llano at the base of the Peak, Sept. 9, 
La Estancia de los Yngleses, Sept. 10, 

Alta Vista, 

La Cueva del Yelo, . . . . 

La Rambleta, . 

Summit of the Peak, 

At six feet above the summit, 

Aqueous vapors in the small hole of the crater, 

The Peak of Teneriffe, called by the natives. El Pico 
de Teyde,* consists of a pyramidal mass of more than 
twenty miles in circumference at the base, and is elevated 
nearly 12,200 feet above the level of the ocean. Nearly 
one half of its surface is thinly scattered with the retama, 
the remaining portion being sterile and very sparingly pro- 
ducing a small violet, (Viola cheiranthifolia, Lin.) which 
is of a flaming hue. Also a few species of grasses are found 
a considerable distance up the sides, and some species of 
cryptogamous plants vegetate quite on the verge, and even 
in the crater. A great portion of the surface of the moun- 
tain consists of rugged tracts of lava, having a base of 
pitch-stone, or obsidian of a blackish-brown, or deep-green 
color, and in most instances, contains crystals of feldspar. 
Several varieties of obsidian are found here, as well as 
pumice, the latter being generally of a whitish color. On 
the borders of Las Cafiadas are also to be found immense 



* Corrupted from the Guanche word Echeyde^ hell ; from the belief of the abo- 
rigines, that the infernal regions existed on the highest summit of this mountain, in 
consequence of their having seen it discharge fire and sulphur at the time of 
eruptions. 



52 CANARY ISLANDS. 

blocks of feldspatbic lava with abase of pyroxene, and con- 
tains crystals of feldspar ; and in some instances are found 
fragments of granitic lava. 

The present crater of this volcano, called by the Span- 
iards, la caldera, is of an elliptical form, surrounded by a 
wall of lithoidal lava, shelving down on each side, and 
forms a hollow like a vast amphitheatre. It inclines to the 
S.S.E. at an angle of about 15°, having a tranverse diameter 
of 420 feet, a conjugate diameter of 350, and a depth of 
103 feet. There is continually rising from the small 
crevices, an aqueous vapor which issues with such force, 
as to create a peculiar buzzing noise. It condenses against 
the neighboring walls, and distils in drops of sulphuric, or 
muriatic acid, while the residue adheres to the rocks, and 
forms an incrustation of fine crystals of sulphur. It also 
acts on the scattered fragments of lava about the crater, 
and forms certain portions of it into a soft, whitish paste, in 
which, are found crystals of sulphate of alumine. 

This volcano may be compared to a grand laboratory 
for manufacturing sulphuric acid. There probably exists 
an extensive bed of ignited sulphur, deep in the earth, and 
by large quantities of nitre, or some other substance, it is 
supplied with oxygen to maintain its combustion. And as 
the mountain is constantly absorbing moisture from the rain, 
clouds and snows, which prevent the escape of the volatile 
matter, by imbibing the sulphureous vapors, it gradually 
becomes more and more acid, till it exudes in the man- 
ner above described. 

An expedition to the summit of this mountain is particu- 
larly interesting, on account of the multiplicity of phe- 
nomena, which are objects of scientific investigation, and 
still it has great attractions from its picturesque beauties ; 
but I never could recommend a person to subject himself to 
all the toils and fatigues in accomplishing it, on account of 
the latter, for he will surely return, like almost every one, 
dissatisfied. 

Port Orotava, Friday, ) 
September 13, 1833. \ 



LETTER XI 



Excursion to Chasna. 



On the 16th instant, I set off from Port Orotava, in 
order to make a grand excursion round the Peak. I pur- 
sued my course during the entire day along the sea-shore, 
travelling through a country widely diversified in its 
aspect, as well as its productions. That portion of the 
rout between Realejo de Abaxo and San Juan dela Rambla, 
is one of the most interesting parts of the island, both as 
regards its fertility and its picturesqueness. Here the lofty 
mountain of Tygayga abruptly breaks above your head 
and may be seen 

" Mirror'd in the ocean vast, 
A thousand fathoms down." 

Here you enter a lovely glen traversed by babbling 
streamlets, which are overhung with the ^* golden orange,'' 
the *^ blushing peach,'' and the *^ generous vine." Here, 
too, you may gaze at myriads of golden insects and glit- 
tering lizards basking in the sun ; and there, countless 
warblers 

*' Gracefully riding through the sky." 

I continued my way to Ycod de los Vinos, passing 
through San Juan de la Rambla; where near the latter 
place, I observed an irregular basaltic rock, the columns 
of which were six-sided, and were connected with each 
other at the ends by oblique angles. The country between 
these two villas affords scarcely any vegetation, except 
the Cactus opuntia, and a few stinted fig-trees, and is 
truly called by the natives la mal pais, (the bad coun- 
5* 



54 CANARY ISLANDS. 

try), which signifies, in all Spanish provinces, a ground 
destitute of vegetable mould, and covered with fragments 
of lavas. 

About mid-day, I left Ycod, where I had a most mag- 
nificent view of the Peak, and travelled about a league 
through a succession of fertile vineyards to Garachico, the 
port of which was destroyed in 1706, by an enormous 
lateral eruption of the Peak. Before that event, this place 
had the best harbor in the province, and was extensively 
engaged in foreign commerce ; consequently, from that 
circumstance, it was deprived of its opulence, and now is 
inhabited principally by vine-dressers and fishermen, hav- 
ing only 1861 inhabitants. 

At six o'clock in the evening, I arrived at Los Silos, 
where I passed the night on the estate of Mr. John Colo- 
gan, of Orotava. Here I enjoyed one of the most inviting 
scenes in existence, where 

" The clusters clear, 
Half through the foliage seen, or ardent flame, 
Or shine transparent ; while perfection breathes 
White o'er the turgent film the living dew, 
As thus they brighten with exalted juice, 
Touch'd into flavor by the mingling ray ; 
Tiie rural youth and virgins o'er the field, 
Each fond for each to cull the autumnal prime, 
Exulting rove, and speak the vintage nigh." 

The following morning I resumed my march and pur- 
sued my rout over a small fertile plain, and at nine 
o'clock, reached Buena Vista, a compact village, situated 
near the western extremity of the island, and contained, 
according to the last census, 1228 inhabitants. I soon 
commenced ascending a lofty range of mountains which 
encircle the Peak, and after climbing over a remarkably 
steep and rocky path for more than two hours, I entered a 
dense forest of cedars, resembling the Scottish fir, where 
the rain began to pour down in torrents. I quickened 
my pace, and about mid-day, came to an opening where 
T took shelter in a wretched hovel constructed of loose 
stones and straw, and contained neither windows, floor, or 
chimney, nor furniture, except a few stones and earthen- 
pots. Here I found a poor woman clothed in rags, and 
four small children in an entire state of nudity. Shortly 



CANARY ISLANDS. 55 

after my arrival, a fire of pine torches was constructed in 
one corner of the hut, from which we were soon enveloped 
in fumes. Occasionally the light of the torches would cast 
a glimmer on the puny imps, who were encircled in smoke 
and darkness, and gave them the appearance of so many 
little demons. 

The storm having become less violent, I again continued 
my journey. But I had not progressed far, before the rain 
began to fall more furious than ever, and the wind blew 
with great violence. I soon reached the summit of the 
mountain, when, all of a sudden, the rain ceased, and the 
sun broke through the clouds, and presented beneath me, 
a gulf truly frightful, a sight of which, would cause the 
strongest nerves to shudder. I could look down 3000 feet 
almost perpendicularly towards La Punta de Teno over 
numerous strata of sand and rocks of lava of a singular 
appearance, an inspection of which, could not be made, 
from the threatening aspect of the clouds. No sooner had 
I begun to descend, than the sun concealed itself, and the 
rain recommenced falling with increased vehemence, and 
the wind, sw^eeping over the mountain, blew a tremendous 
hurricane, awfully grand and appalling. With extreme 
difficulty, I advanced struggling against the fury of the 
wind, which incessantly dashed large piercing drops of 
rain against my face and limbs. The path became so 
precipitous, that my mule was scarcely able to descend. 
The poor beast would have to poise itself for some time on 
its fore legs with its heels upwards, in order to gain its 
equilibrium, that it might securely light upon some place 
below. In the mean time, the rain had caused a frightful 
torrent to rush down the ravine, with astonishing tumult 
over the huge masses of rock that obstructed its course. 
However, at two o'clock the rain had ceased, and I 
reached El Valle de Santiago, from which I immediately 
ascended the mountain, on its eastern side, where a 
most charming prospect was laid before me. The wind 
blew with great violence, but the storm had ceased, 
and the sun shone with its usual brightness. Far and 
deep down, was seen the beautiful valley below, and high 
aloft hung huge columns of basalt, seemingly ready to fall 
upon my head. Here I begun to grow forgetful of my 



56 CANARY ISLANDS. 

danger and of my fatigue, for I had discovered a deep 
stratum of yellowish earth, which contained millions of 
crystals of pyroxene, distinct in their forms, of a large 
size, and easily procured. From the danger of being 
swept off the precipice by the fury of the wind, I was soon 
obliged to descend to the south side of the mountain, where 
I found the weather fair and calm, and the lofty Teyde, 
just peeping over the intermediate mountain, was crowned 
with a brilliant rainbow, a spectacle, perhaps, as rare as it 
was sublime. 

The remaining part of the day, I travelled over a barren 
country, having scarcely any vegetation to diversify its 
monotonous cliffs, except the prickly pear and a few fig- 
trees. I observed large heaps of the fruit of the former 
preparing for the winter store of the natives ; this and gojio^ 
being their chief sustenance during the year. 

About dusk, I arrived at Guia, a straggling village, con- 
taining 1571 inhabitants, chiefly fishermen, where, with 
some difficulty, my guides procured me lodgings for the 
night. Early the next morning, I set off again and trav- 
elled more than three leagues over an excessively barren 
tract intersected by numerous ravines, some of them being 
of such terrific depth, that the mind of the descending 
traveller is impressed with involuntary agitation. On 
reaching their bottom, the voices of my guides were 
increased to an astonishing loudness, and echoed against 
their walls with repeated reverberations. 

About noon, I arrived at Adexe, a pleasant village 
situated in a fertile valley, which contains 1048 inhabitants. 
It stands on a stratum of breccise, which is very easily cut 
into blocks, that are used for building. Here I observed 
several dark-complexioned people, having straight black 
hair, resem_bling the Moors of the continent. Towards 
evening, I reached a small plain situated on a hill, called 



*This substance is usually made of maize, or barley, and at times, as a dainty, 
of wheat. The grain is first parched over the fire, and then ground into coarse 
flour between two small portable mill-stones, moved by the hand ; and this powder 
is the gofio, which they eat without any other kind of food. Sometimes, how- 
ever, they put a quantity of it with water, or, as a luxury, with goats' or asses' milk, 
into a turron, or small leather sack, and after working it well upon their knees, 
they knead it into small pellets, which they throw into their mouths by handfulls, 
and devour them with greediness. 



CANARY ISLANDS. 57 

Las Colonias, which commands El Valle de las Calderas, 
(the valley of craters), where there were to be seen, at the 
same tune, more than twenty conical hills with extinct 
craters. About sunset, I came into the borders of San 
Miguel, and passed the night with a family of Guanche 
descent, who still retain similar habits and modes of life, 
as those of their ancestors. I was quite amused with 
many of their movements, particularly their mode of pre- 
paring and eating the gofio. 

Early this morning, I bade adieu to my Guanche friends, 
and pursued my journey over a somewhat fertile country, 
producing an abundance of fig-trees, from which I made 
a delicious breakfast of their ripe, purple fruit. About ten 
o'clock, I reached this place, shortly after which, I procured 
a comfortable room, and after refreshing myself, made an 
excursion about a league and a half at the northward, to 
some mineral springs. The first two that I came to, were 
situated about eight feet apart, and both issued from a bed 
of talcky slate. One of them, called by the natives, La 
Agua Agria, (sour water), was about a foot in diameter, and 
six inches deep, discharging a small quantity of acidulous 
water highly charged with carbonic acid gas, with a tem- 
perature of 62°. The other spring was about the same size, 
with a temperature of 63^, and is called La Agua Dulce, 
(sweet water), having no other sensible properties, but 
those of common water. From these two springs, I trav- 
elled over a steep mountain at the distance of about half 
of a league to the northward, where I found another spring, 
situated on the eastern side of El Valle de Ucanca. It 
discharged a considerable quantity of saline water, having 
a very disagreeable acrid taste, with a temperature of 54°. 
It issued from a stratum of whitish sand, overlaid with 
large blocks of feldspathic lava, and is called by the natives. 
La Agua Agria de Ucanca. 

Many of the natives of these islands have great faith in 
the medicinal virtues of this spring, and assemble here at 
certain seasons of the year, and pass several days together. 
The drinking of the water is sometimes attended with the 
most serious consequences, producing immediate death. 

On my return to this place, I passed through a forest of 
pines, (Pinus canariensis, Lin.) many of which were 



58 CANARY ISLANDS. 

twenty or thirty feet in circumference. The wood of 
this tree contains an abundance of resin, and serves for 
excellent timber and fuel. 

The hamlet of Chasna is situated in a fertile valley in 
the heart of the mountains, and is elevated about 4500 feet 
above the level of the ocean. It has a greater resemblance 
to a New-England village than any other place on the 
island that I have visited. It is encompassed by extensive 
orchards of peach, pear, and almond trees, and some well 
cultivated fields and gardens. The neighboring hills and 
mountains are crowned by forests of majestic pines, or are 
interspersed with large flocks of sheep, each attended by a 
shepherd during the entire day and night. A population 
of 574 souls inhabit this Alpine recess, all animated with 
the most friendly spirit, and live in simple beauty. 

From the elevated situation of this place, the mean 
annual temperature is much less than that of the lower 
regions, and often in winter, the snow falls to the depth of 
more than a foot, and remains for several weeks together. 
The inhabitants are a hardy people, generally of a dark 
complexion, and are so primitive in their diet, that few of 
them seldom, if ever, taste animal food, living entirely on 
fruit and gofio. This appears to be a wholesome regimen, 
for they are healthy, strong, and athletic, and are sus- 
ceptible of great fatigue. When they go abroad, they 
usually carry with them a long staff, or pole, pointed with 
iron, with which they bound from rock to rock, with an 
agility that would baffle all European pursuit. The parish 
register of this place exhibits two very extraordinary instan- 
ces of longevity ; one who died in 1819, at the age of 110 
years, and the other in 1825, of 121 years. 

Villa Flor de la Chasna, Thursday, ) 
September 19, 1833. j 



LETTER XII 



Return to Orotava. 



After completing my inquiries at Chasna, I set off 
early in the morning of the 20th instant for this place. I 
pursued my rout about half of a mile to the south-eastward 
from the village to a spring called by the natives, La Agua 
Blanca, (white water). It consisted of a small pool of a 
whitish appearance, probably caused by stagnation, and 
contained millions of the larvae of mosquetoes. In tasting 
the water, I found nothing uncommon in its properties. 
From thence, I proceeded to El Valle de Ucanca, when 
about nine o'clock, the sky became overcast, and indicated 
an approaching storm. I immediately commenced ascend- 
ing the girdle of mountains that surrounds the Peak, which 
were so steep, that I was under the necessity of dismounting, 
and with some difficulty, reached its summit, where the 
wind blew most violently, dashing me with thick mists and 
clouds. I descended the northern side of the mountain at 
the depth of about 2000 feet to an extensive plain, destitute 
of vegetation, and apparently the bed of a lake during the 
rainy seasons. Near this plain, it is said that there is 
another spring which either possesses the quality of incrus- 
tation, or of petrifaction, and that by placing objects within 
its influence, they soon become incrusted with a calcareous, 
or a silicious covering. In some of the ravines near the 
southern extremity of this plain, there are immense quan- 
tities of argillaceous tufa, called by the natives, el azulejo, 
which has a beautiful, soft, cerulean hue. 

About ten o'clock I overtook my mule and proceeded to 
Las Cafiadas, over a succession of tracts of scragged rocks 
and small llanos, passing by a number of conical masses of 
lava of an immense height, which threateningly leaned over 



60 CANARY ISLANDS. 

my head. In the mean time the rain had commenced fall- 
ing and continued to fall until two o'clock, when it ceased 
for a time, affording delightful weather. The cold sharp 
air had created a pretty active appetite which I eagerly 
satiated near a limpid spring. Shortly after I resumed my 
march and proceeded to a plain more than a mile in length, 
and before I had travelled half of its length the rain recom- 
menced falling with increased fury. As I w^as plodding 
along I observed a high precipitous rock with a perpen- 
dicular face, some parts of which were decomposed, leav- 
ing small apertures where the swallows sometimes brood 
their young. One of these holes exactly represented a 
human profile, having a fine Grecian nose, a high forehead 
and regular chin, each possessing its due proportions. 

About four o'clock I passed through El Portillo to El 
Llano de Gaspas, which is elevated about 5000 feet above 
the level of the ocean, and bears a profusion of the Genista 
canariensis, a beautiful arborescent heath. Near its bor- 
ders I observed a great number of impressions of ferns in 
basaltes. (?) I continued my descent and reached this port 
about dark. 

Yesterday I made a botanical excursion over the moun- 
tain of Tygayga from Ycod del Alto to El Llano de Gas- 
pas, returning through the Valley of Orotava. There can 
be but few regions on the globe that afford more ample 
resources to the botanist than this island. It contains in 
itself several hundred species of plants, besides a great 
number of exotics both from the torrid and the temperate 
zones. In ascending from the sea-shores to the top of the 
mountains, from July to October, one may examine a 
great portion of the plants which it produces, and in almost 
every stage of growth. 

During some of my more leisure hours I have often 
taken pleasure in rambling to the Botanic Garden at Du- 
rasno, where I saw a great number of foreign plants which 
grow without the aid of human culture, and have as often 
experienced emotions of regret when I beheld the neglect- 
ful state into which it had fallen. It was first established 
by the Marquis de Nava who had an idea that these islands 
would afford a suitable place for naturalizing plants of the 
East and West Indies, previous to their introduction into 



CANARY ISLANDS. 61 

Europe. He accordingly put his project into execution, 
and continued it with considerable success for several 
years, but the expenses annually incurred were so heavy, 
that he was obliged to abandon it. Humboldt made pro- 
posals for the Prussian Government to purchase it and 
continue its object, but as no land belonging to Spain can 
be owned out of its provinces, the proposition could not 
be carried into effect. The Marquis, however, very mu- 
nificently made the king of Spain a present of it, provided 
he would keep it under cultivation. This generous offer 
he accepted, but through some neglect or other, it has 
been suffered to decline, and is now rented for a trifling 
sum, and little or nothing more is done for it except what 
nature does, than to plant the open spaces with a few 
culinary vegetables. 

Between this Garden and the ocean there is a delightful 
country mansion called La Paz, which, together with the 
surrounding prospect, is the most enchanting and romantic 
spot on the island. It is built near the brink of a lofty 
precipice about 300 feet in height, which overhangs the 
sea. It is encompassed by a beautiful garden tastefully 
laid out, and is supplied with tanks. From the top of the 
house one can command the whole Valley of Orotava, and 
in clear weather the island of Palma. But the most pic- 
turesque part of the scene is the precipice. The spectator, 
standing on the verge of the descent, sees beneath him the 
vast ocean, which he hears hoarsely bellowing in the cav- 
erns beneath his feet. In placing himself on the sea-shore, 
he can ascend mid-way up the cliff by an avenue, to a deep 
cavern which was formerly occupied by one of the Guanche 
kings for a palace. 

A few days ago I took an excursion to La Villa de la 
Orotava, and visited the garden of Mr. Cologan, in which 
stands the great dragon-tree (Dracoena draco. Lin.) men- 
tioned by Humboldt. At the time that he visited these 
islands it was fifty or sixty feet high, having a circumfer- 
ence, near the roots, of forty-five feet. The trunk was 
divided into a great number of branches which rose in 
the form of a candlestick, and were terminated by tufts of 
leaves radiating similar to the burs of chesnuts. But in la 
6 



62 CANARY ISLANDS. 

aluvion^ of 1S26, the tree severed, one half of which was 
swept away, leaving the other half which stands at the 
present day. Every year it bears flowers and fruit, and is 
regarded, among organized beings, as one of the oldest 
inhabitants of our globe, which sensibly recalls to mind 
'^ that eternal youth of nature,^' the inexhaustible source 
of motion and of life. This tree is not found indigenous 
to any part of the world except the East Indies, which 
proves, in a degree, that the Guanches had at some remote 
period, communication with nations originally from Asia. 
It was reverenced by them as the ash of Ephesus was by 
the Greeks ; and the more ignorant classes of the natives 
here at present, have many superstitious notions respect- 
ing it. 

I have been recently informed of a man in this place 
who has a profuse flow of milk from his breast. He is of 
a middle age, a fisherman by occupation, and is strong, 
healthy and robust. A similar phenomenon is mentioned 
by Humboldt in Cumana, and another by Benedictus in 
Syria. 

Port Orotava, Tuesday, \ 
September 24, 1833. \ 



* In the night of the 7th of November, 1826, these islands were visited by a tre- 
mendous tempest of wind and rain, the fury of which was so violent at Teneriffe, 
that it bore away almost everything that opposed its passage ; churches, convents, 
houses to the number of three handred and eleven ; and drowned two hundred and 
forty-three people, and one thousand and nine animals, besides doing great injury 
to fields, vineyards, houses, etc. New ravines were formed in the mountains, and 
stones and trees were swept from their summits to the ocean. 



LETTER XIII. 



Excursion to Candelaria. 



Early in the morning of the 25th instant, I set off 
on an excursion to the south part of the island. After 
passing directly through the Valley of Orotava, I entered 
a beautiful grove of chesnuts, (Castanea vesca. Lin.) 
shortly after which I came to a small hamlet near a famous 
fountain called La Agua Mansa, (meek water,) from 
v/hich the Villa of Orotava is supplied with water. Many 
of the chesnut-trees among which I passed had a circum- 
ference of twenty-five or thirty feet, although they v/ere 
planted within the last century. 

After making some observations on temperature and 
mineralogy, I ascended a steep mountain to the height of 
about 9000 feet above the level of the ocean. On reach- 
ing its top, I observed a phenomenon, the like of which I 
have never seen nor heard of before, although it might 
often occur in many parts of the globe, if the spectator 
were placed under similar circumstances. In ascending the 
mountain I passed through a stratum of dripping clouds, 
and about noon reached its summit, where the sun shone 
with intense brilliancy. On turning my face towards the 
north I beheld the sun's rays refracted in the clouds below 
my feet, forming a perfect bow which unfolded every hue 

" In fair proportion running from the red 
To where the violet fades." 

Shortly after I commenced my descent on the southern 
side of the mountain, and about one o'clock reached El 
Volcan de Guimar, formed by a lateral eruption of the 
Peak in El Llano de los Infantes, on the 31st of De- 
cember, 1704. On the 5th of January following, a sec- 



64 CANARY ISLANDS. 

ond opening took place in El Baranco de Almerchiga, 
a league from Ycore. The lavas were so abundant, that 
the whole Valley of Fasnia, or Arenza, was filled up. The 
second mouth ceased vomiting eight days after its com- 
mencement. A third opening was formed on the 2d of 
February of the same year, in La Canada de Arafo. The 
lavas divided into three currents, and would have destroyed 
the village of Guimar, had they not been stopped in El Valle 
de Melosar, by a chain of rocks, which formed an insupera- 
ble obstacle to their passage. The volcano is now extinct, 
and consists of large conical masses of small fragments of 
black scoriae and ashes. 

A short distance to the westward of this volcano there 
is a frightful-looking mountain, rising more than 1000 feet 
perpendicularly, on the sides of which grows an abundance 
of orchilla, or archil, (Lichen rocella. Lin.) a kind of moss 
used in dyeing. It is of a grayish color, and yields a pur- 
ple tincture, fugitive, but very beautiful, which is one of 
the best chemical tests for acids and alkalies, and is known 
by the name of tincture of litmus. By the addition of tin 
it is rendered durable as a dye, and then approaches to 
scarlet. Archil, however, is most commonly employed to 
give a bloom to pinks and other colors. It readily gives 
out its coloring matter to water, or to any kind of spirits. 

About three o'clock I had descended below the clouds, 
and had a fine view of Grand Canary, and most of the 
towns on the south side of this island. Just before I reached 
Guimar I came to a deep ravine, from the top of which 
I attempted to descend to a Guanche cave, but without 
success, after descending fifteen or twenty feet. In climb- 
ing back, a projecting rock gave way and fell upon my 
head, which caused me to stagger quite to the brink of the 
precipice. One of my feet slipped off, and fortunately, 
one of my guides caught me by the arm, and saved me 
from being dashed to pieces on the rocks below. 

Shortly after I passed through Guimar, a pleasant vil- 
lage situated on a fertile plain, and containing 2990 in- 
habitants, and proceeded about a league over a barren 
tract to Candelaria, where I passed the night. Most of 
the inhabitants that I observed at Guimar had very small 
black eyes and tawny complexions. 



CANARY ISLANDS. 65 

Early the next morning I pursued my way nearly a 
league, at the northward, to El Baranco de Herque, where 
I visited one of the sepulchral caverns of the Guanches. It 
is entered by two comparatively small openings of the rocks, 
leading to a large, dark and gloomy vault, formed by nature, 
which formerly contained an immense number of mummies. 




The history of the antiques of these islands is involved 
in great obscurity, and their existence is best proved by the 
remains of their dead ; for their posterity is nearly, if not 
entirely extinct. ** The manner of embalming their dead 
is not explicitly illustrated, but apparently the brain and 
intestines were completely removed, after which it is said 
the body was washed with an infusion of pine bark. Next, 
it was anointed with butter or warm grease, which had 
been boiled with such penetrating and odoriferous herbs 
as were peculiar to the islands, and then it was exposed to 
the sun. Being well dried, the same operations were re- 
peated, and also subsequent drying, until the body was 
completely impregnated with the aromatic unguent. When 
reduced to very inconsiderable weight, the process was 
deemed complete, and the deceased was wrapped in an 
envelope, consisting of three successive layers of bandages 
of tanned goat-skin, about three inches broad." Bodies 
thus embalmed were carried to caves in the mountains, 
and then placed upright in niches, or laid out on square 
tables of stone. They appear to have selected for this pur- 
pose, the most precipitous and inaccessible places that they 
*6 



66 CANARY ISLANDS. 

could find, many of which exist on the islands where man 
dares not enter his foot. 

I visited several other caverns in the vicinity of this ba- 
ranco, which contained immense quantities of bones that 
had not been embalmed. Many of them were in a fine 
state of preservation, but they were thrown together in so 
confused a manner that an entire skeleton could not be 
obtained. I had an opportunity, however, of comparing 
the crania with those of the aborigines of the other islands, 
and found a striking similarity to exist among them, prov- 
ing in a degree that they all originated from the same race. 
But we are informed that the natives of some of these 
islands were unknown to those of others, and that the na- 
tives of one island had but very little intercourse with 
those of another at any rate. 

In reviewing the vocabularies of the languages of the 
antiques of these islands, I find a wide difference to exist 
among them. However, those of Lanzarote and Fuerte- 
ventura very nearly agree, and also that of Hierro nearly 
coincides with that of Gomera, but the others, with the 
exception of a few words, have not the least analogy. The 
word ganigo, a kind of earthen ware, signified the same 
on all the islands but Palm a ; and the word gqfio was com- 
mon to all the islands except Teneriffe, Hierro and Gomera. 
These two words are used throughout all the islands by 
the lower classes of the natives at the present day, and 
have the same signification as formerly. 

It was formerly supposed that the languages of the abo- 
rigines of these islands had no analogy with the living 
tongues ; but since Africa has been more thoroughly in- 
vestigated it is found that several words have common 
roots with words of the Chilha and Gebali dialects. For 
example I will cite a few words : — 

Heaven, (in Palma,) Tigotan. (in Berberic,) Tigot. 
]\lilk, (in Fuertcventura,) Aho. " Acho. 

Barley, do. Temesen. " Tomzeen. 

Basket, (in Canary,) Carianas. " Carian. 

Water, (in Hien-o,) Aenum. " Anan. 

It is doubted whether this analogy is a proof of a com- 
mon origin ; but it indicates the ancient connexion be- 
tween the Guanches and Berbers, a tribe of m.ountaineers 



CANARYISLANDS. 67 

with whom the Numidians, the Getuli, and the Garamanti 
are confounded, and who extend themselves from the east- 
ern extremity of Atlas by Harutsch and Fezzan, as far as 
the oasis of Siwah and Angela.^ 

About eight o'clock I returned to Candelaria, which 
takes its name from the miraculous appearance of Nuestra 
Senora de la Candelaria at this place, in 1392. She was 
picked up on the beach and placed in the chapel, and was 
believed, by the natives, to be the real Virgin Mary. They 
looked upon her with profound veneration, and loaded her 
shrine with many valuable offerings. She remained in 
that situation until the 8th of November, 1826, when 
she, with the chapel, was swept away by an awful hurri- 
cane and deluge, and has not yet performed the miracle of 
returning, though many less feasible ones are attributed to 
her by her devotees. She consisted of a small, black im- 
age bedecked with jewels and other trappings, and in fact 
was nothing more than the figure-head of a vessel, which 
washed up in that place. 

About nine o'clock I left Candelaria, and pursued my 
way homeward over the mountain, nearly in the same path 
through which I passed yesterday. 

Port Orotava, Friday, ) 
September 27, 1833. \ 



* Vide Adelung und Vater, Mithridates, t. iii. p. 60. 



LETTER XIV, 



Trigonometrical Measurement of the Peak. 



The measurement of the Peak of TenerifFe has occu- 
pied the attention of various individuals at different periods, 
whose efforts have been attended with the widest resuhs ; 
and the obscure manner in which most of their operations 
have been brought before the public has prevented us from 
judging of their error or truth. Consequently, my atten- 
tion has been occupied for several days past in performing 
that task trigonometrically, not, however, as an object of 
mere curiosity, but as being essentially connected with my 
physical labors. 

The ground in the Valley of Orotava being uneven and 
intersected by ravines, it was impossible to find a base 
extensive enough to determine the distance of the Peak 
by a single triangle, consequently I employed two. I 
measured on the plain between the Botanic Garden and 
La Paz, my first basis a 6 of 100 toises, or 639 English 
feet. See the following figure. 




70 CANARY ISLANDS. 

By means of this, I calculated a second a c oi 1430-06 
toises, and afterwards a third a p of 9953*4 toises, which 
was the first grand base required. The point c was in 
Mr. Cologan's garden in La Villa de la Orotava, near the 
great dragon-tree spoken of in a former letter ; and the 
point p was the summit of the Peak. The base a h was 
measured by Mr. Hurst of London, and myself, on three 
occasions, each of the measurements terminating with 
nearly the same results. The following were the angles 
of the two triangles taken with minute attention. 

Triangle ah c. Triangle a cp. 

Angle ah c = 86° 00' Angle a c;? = 119° 58' 

" ac& = 4 00 '' ape = 7 13 

" 6ac = 90 00 « cap = 52 49 

At the point a^ the Peak subtended an angle of 10° 35', 
by means of which, I found that its summit is elevated 
1859*73 toises above the point a. 

My next object was to determine the height of the point 
a above the ocean. In order to do this, I employed the 
same basis a b of 100 toises as in the preceding triangle, 
from which I calculated another a o of 1339*46 toises, 
which was the second grand base required. The point o 
w^as a vessel riding at anchor in the quarantine of this port. 
The following were the angles of the triangle a h o, taken 
in the same manner as those of the other triangles. 

Angle ah = 137° 58' 
" ao6 = 2 55 
" hao = 39 07 

The angle of depression from the point a to the point o, 
was 190 49', and of course, the angle of elevation from the 
point to the point a, was the same. From these data, I 
ascertained that the point a was elevated 48.26 toises 
above the ocean. The height of the eye above the point 
«, in taking the angles of elevation and depression, was 
1*5 toises ; and the state of the atmosphere at the time that 
the angles were taken, was perfectly serene, on account of 
which, I only deducted, for the effect of refraction, 2*34 
toises. Hence we may infer from the foregoing operations, 



CANARY ISLANDS, 71 

that the absolute height of the Peak of Teneriffe, above 
the level of the ocean, is 1905*65 toises,* or 12,177 English 
feet. 

From the action of the elements, and the numerous 
lateral eruptions to which this mountain has been subject 
these last two centuries, its elevation has been considerably 
diminished. I am informed that the appearance of its 
summit was sensibly altered after the deluge of 1826, and 
to compare the present outline of its summit with the 
ancient drawings of it, there is but a very faint resemblance. 

It has been asserted, that volcanoes always increase in 
height, until they are extinguished, when they begin to 
fall, and, by degrees, sink into the caverns below. This, 
undoubtedly, has been the case in the present instance, 
the lateral eruptions having exhausted a great quantity of 
the bowels of the mountain, and the portions above, being 
too heavy for their hollow foundations, have given way and 
settled down into the mountain. Some are of an opinion, 
however, that the crater of this volcano has never been 
totally extinguished, and that another grand eruption is 
approaching, from the fact that a hot vapor issues from its 
nostrils, which is said to have gradually increased in tem- 
perature within these last thirty years. This may be the 
case, but it is a matter of uncertainty ; for the first time 
that I visited this volcano, the vapor had a temperature of 
more than 220^, and about two weeks afterwards, I found 
that it had a temperature of only 160^ ; but one of the 
probable causes of this change was, that the summit of the 
mountain existed under very different circumstances, at 
one time a tremendous hurricane, and the other, scarcely 
a breath of wind. 

For many evenings past, my attention has been particu- 
larly arrested by an extraordinary brilliancy of the zodiacal 
light, and the sudden departure of the twilight. The 
former is a beautiful phenomenon, constantly existing at 
the equator, and presents itself just before sunrise or after 



*My first basis was divided into toises of 6*39 English feet each, and of course, 
all the distances calculated from it, were of the same proportion ; but more accu- 
rately the French toise contains 6*3957 feet j hence the Peak has an elevation of 
about 1904 toises. 



72 CANARY ISLANDS. 

sunset, under the appearance of a serene whitish clearness, 
resembling the galaxy. It has the form of a pyramid, with 
its base turned towards the sun, and its axis in the zodiac. 
As we approach the poles, it appears towards the end of 
winter, and in the spring, after sunset ; and in autumn, or 
the beginning of winter, we observe it before sunrise. 
Many theories have been advanced with regard to its cause, 
but none of them satisfactory ; it must be referred, how- 
ever, either to the nature of the terrestrial atmosphere, or 
to the position of the globe with its relation to the sun. 
The delightful spectacle of the dawn and of twilight, is 
almost entirely denied to those who live in the regions of 
the equator, where the sun rises in a direction nearly 
vertical ; the light or darkness comes on very near the 
time that the sun approaches or recedes from the horizon. 
It is towards the poles that these reflected splendors are the 
longest visible. As we pass northward, or southward from 
the equator, they become brighter and brighter, until they 
change the whole of the night into a magic day. 

Port Orotava, Friday, ) 
October 4, 1833. \ 



LETTER XV, 



Departure from Orotava* 



After a protracted and satisfactory visit at Port Orotava, 
I took leave of my intelligent and hospitable friend, Mr. 
Diston, whose kind attentions I gratefully acknowledge, 
arid shall long cherish them in my remembrance. Early 
in the morning of the 7th instant, I v^as prevailed upon to 
visit some of the large wine cellars, connected with the 
*^ Salvador House," in London, known under the firm of 
Pasley, Little & Co. It was extremely gratifying to 
observe the systematic manner in which they conducted 
their business. The better classes of their wines are 
fabricated with the most careful attention, and are shipped 
to Europe and America under the name of Teneriffe par- 
ticular wine, and are generally drunk for Madeira. A 
very bad practice exists here in bringing considerable 
quantities of inferior wines from Palma and other islands, 
and shipping them for those of Teneriffe, in consequence 
of which, they have gone into less repute. In truth, there 
are actually more wines disposed of in Europe alone under 
the name of Madeira and Teneriffe, than all these islands 
produce, including every kind. 

At eight o'clock, I took my departure on foot, and con- 
tinued my way as far as Matanzas. The morning was 
splendidly beautiful ; not a wandering vapor tinged the 
deep-blue sky, nor scarce a breath warped the silver mir- 
ror of the sea. Myriads of glittering insects were sporting 
in the sunbeams, and birds of the most brilliant plumage 
were gliding through the air, alternately perching on the 
fig-trees. Among them, I observed that the canary birds, 
(FringUIa canaria. Lin.) held an appropriate rank. They 
were, in general, of a dingy, greenish-gray, but some of 
7 



74 CANARY ISLANDS. 

them had a yellowish tint on their backs. They appeared 
to be less disposed to sing than the domestic canary, and 
their note less musical, although it has been remarked, 
that those which inhabit Grand Canary and Montana 
Clara, have a more harmonious song, proving in a degree, 
that under every zone, among birds of the same species, 
each flock has its peculiar note. The domestic yellow, or 
mottled canary, is a variety which has taken birth in Europe, 
being the offspring of the wild canary and the German 
siskin, (^Fringilla spinus. Lin.) 

Early yesterday morning I pursued my way to this 
city, called by the people here, Laguna. It is situated 
on an elevated plain which unites with the Valley of Taco- 
ronte, of which travellers of all nations speak with raptu- 
rous enthusiasm. This delightful country extends from 
this llano to San Juan de la Rambla, and presents scenes 
of unrivalled beauty. The plain on which this city stands, 
was formerly the bed of a lake, and takes its name from 
the Spanish word, laguna, a lake. By the annual 
increase of the alluvion from the neighboring mountains, 
it is now converted into richly-cultivated fields and gar- 
dens. No longer than eighty years ago, some portions of 
it were so fenny, that boats remained here during the 
year ; and even at the present day, in the rainy seasons, 
the water sometimes collects and forms a large pool, or 
lake, and the inhabitants make use of boats to pass from 
one place to another. 

This city, in 1830, contained 6,600 inhabitants, and is 
nominally the metropolis of the province. Formerly, Las 
Palmas in Canary, bore that title, and yet is so much so, 
that the Audencia, or Supreme Civil Court, is held there. 
But virtually, Santa Cruz may be regarded as the capital, 
it having been the residence of the Governor General, 
who, in virtue of his military office, has been the President 
of the Audencia, for more than a century. This city has 
a university, two parish churches, and five convents. It 
has no trade, being inhabited by many of the nobility of the 
island. 

Cuidad de San Cristobal de la Lacuna, ) 
Thursday, October 10, 1833. j 




id" 

i iiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiiiiin miiiiiin iiiiiiij " mm i i iiiiin iii i iffii iii tt n l ii iim iil iiiia miiiiii i ejm 



^^^Ei^htRpcJcs 








'10® Westficwi CrreenM'vcrt 



^5" Teizdleton's Zithp^'' BostDit 



LETTER XVI 



Topography. 



Although it is equally remote from my intention, as it 
is from my power, to give a complete account of these 
islands, a few succinct remarks on their history and topog- 
raphy may not appear superfluous, premising that I can 
speak, from my own knowledge, only of a few wrecks 
passed on this island. Whatever relates to the rest is de- 
duced from undoubted authority. 

Properly speaking, the number of the Canary Islands is 
twelve ; but Alegranza, Graciosa, Montana Clara, Lobos, 
and Roca del Este, being small uninhabited rocks, afford- 
ing few topics of description, I shall only speak of the 
other seven. 



Situation^ Extent and Population. 








Leagues. 
















o 
o 




. 




2 


& 


^ 


rSi 


o 


ei 


So 






t'c 


fcX3 

C 


3 


a 


o 


a 




d 


c 


'^ 


o 


s 


< 






^ 


o 


^ 


n 


o 

'6 






Teneriffe, . . 


28" 15' 


16M0' 


17 


9 


48 


83-805 


70,968 


Canary, . . . 


28 00 


15 38 


12 


11 


48 


68-361 


57,625 


Palma, .... 


28 42 


]8 00 


10 


9 


27 


32-136 


28,693 


Lanzarote, . . 


29 00 


13 50 


10 


5 


24 


34-352 


15,404 


Fuerteventura, 


28 15 


14 10 


26 


7 


57 


60-394 


8,040 


Gomera, . . . 


28 27 


17 20 


8 


6 


22 


9-436 


9,000 


Hierro, .... 


27 15 


18 10 


7 


5 


24 


6-625 


4,336 






Total. 


90 1 52 1 250 


295-264 


194,066 



Teneriffe, the largest and the most important in 
wealth and population, is so varied in its soil, its climate, 



76 CANARY ISLANDS. 

and its productions, that it will be difficult for me to give 
even a general description of it. Every variety of soil and 
surface may be found within its narrow limits; sands as 
barren and as dreary as those of the deserts of Africa, 
rocks as precipitous and as magnificent as those of the 
Alpine regions, and fields and vineyards as fertile and as 
luxuriant as those of the most favored regions of the earth. 
Within the space of about sixty miles, every object of this 
multum in parvo must, of necessity, be in small portions, 
except the Peak, the mighty dome that crowns the edifice 
of the whole. Its staple commodities are wines, wheat, 
maize, barley, rye, pulse, potatoes, barilla, and archil. 
Its chief towns are Santa Cruz, Laguna, and Orotava 
which comprises two parishes, situated about two miles 
apart, one called by the natives El Puerto de la Orotava 
or Puerto de la Cruz, and the other La Villa de la Oro- 
tava ; the former contains 3,956 inhabitants, and the latter 
7,800. 

Grand Canary, is perhaps, more favored by nature, 
than any of these islands. It possesses a very productive 
soil, and an abundance of springs of excellent water, which 
are made to irrigate the land to great advantage. Its 
staple products are the same as those of Teneriffe, except 
barilla. Its produce of grain is proportion ably large, and 
is not subject to the same contingencies as that of the other 
islands, which merely depends on an abundant fall of rain 
at the proper season, to insure a plentiful crop. From the 
same cause, the fruit of this island is generally better than 
that of the others. Within these iew years past, the culture 
of the olive has been zealously attended to, so that there 
is made, already, a considerable quantity of oil. The 
making of wine with the view of exportation, is also of a 
few years' standing ; though not equal to that of Teneriffe, 
it is of a very fair quality. 

The division of these islands in 1826 into two bishop- 
rics, instead of being as formerly, all dependant on the 
see of Canary, is a great diminution of the wealth and 
influence of this island. Of the three ports of the prov- 
ince allowed to carry on a foreign import trade, that of 
Las Palmas, the chief town of this island, is one ; and 



CANARY ISLANDS. 77 

those of Santa Cruz and Port Orotava in Teneriffe, the 
others. All other ports of these islands may export in 
foreign bottoms without difficulty ; but to import, the vessel 
must first come to one of these three ports. Population of 
Las Palmas, 11,363. 

Palma is almost as varied in its soil and its surface, as 
Teneriffe, and still m.ore precipitous on all but its western 
side, where there is an extensive district of llanos in a high 
state of cultivation. The centre of the island is thickly 
wooded, and numerous rills of water descend from the 
high lands, affording constant nourishment to vegetation. 
The chesnut-tree attains an enormous size, there being 
one, the trunk of w^hich is partially hollow by decay, that 
served as a stall for a pair of oxen for several nights in 
succession. The staple products of this island, are the 
same as those of Teneriffe, except barilla. Besides a 
variety of fruit-trees indigenous to these islands, Palma 
contains an abundance of tamarind-trees, though they 
rarely give fruit. The sugar-cane flourishes well here, 
and the sugar produced from it, possesses a certain aro- 
matic flavor, that is nowhere perceived in any other. 
There are also considerable quantities of silk reared on 
this island, and manufactured into garters and coarse 
ribbons. Many of the cocoons are transported to Tene- 
riffe, where they are reeled, and in the raw state, exported 
to Spain for manufacture. Its chief towns are Santa Cruz, 
which contains 4,733 inhabitants, and Mazo, which has a 
population of 4,509. 

Lanzarote and Fuerteventura, the tw^o most eastern 
inhabited islands of this archipelago, though mountainous, 
are not worthy of being called high land, when compared 
with any of the others. They are mentioned together, as 
they are very similar in the sandy, arid nature of their soil, 
and in their produce, which is principally wheat, barley, 
and barilla. These two islands are entirely destitute of 
forests, or indeed, of any tree of size, except the date- 
palm, (PhcBiiix doctylifera, Lin.) It is generally believed, 
that the soil is too loose and shallow to allow trees to take 
sufficient root to withstand the violent winds that sweep 



78 CANARY ISLANDS. 

over them, besides the great want of water in both. To 
raise a supply of fruit, it is necessary to plant fig and pear- 
trees in circular holes about four feet deep, where they 
are sheltered from the winds, and derive most of their 
moisture in summer from the filtration of dew ; so soon as 
the plant overreaches the top of the surrounding earth, it 
is stinted by the blast ; but the quality of its fruit is excel- 
lent. The muscatel grapes and watermelons, are particu- 
larly fine on these islands. Lanzarote possesses in El 
Puerto de Naos, the only safe harbor during all winds, that 
there is in the province ; whereas all the others are open 
roadsteads, or very indiflferent bays. Its chief town is La 
Villa de Teguise, which contains 4,424 inhabitants. The 
chief town on Fuerteventura, is Oliva, having a population 
of 2,181. 

GoMERA and Hierro may be linked together, being 
small islands, and of minor importance when compared 
with the others, though there are different features in the 
characters of each. The former is thickly covered with 
W'ood, and has an abundant supply of water. Its staple 
commodities are similar to those of TeneriiTe, except 
barilla. The Gomerans are very tenacious of the honor 
of having given the West Indies the invaluable sugar-cane, 
from whom Columbus procured that plant, and transported 
it on his second voyage to America. The chief town of 
Gomera, is San Sebestian, which contains 1,500 inhabi- 
tants. There is also, in this island, a very good bay, 
which, though small, may be considered the best anchorage 
in the province with the exception of that of Lanzarote. 

Hierro, on the contrary, is a high rock, covered with a 
thin soil, with only one spot on the circumference of its 
coast, where a safe landing can be effected, and water is 
extremely scarce. Its principal products are like those of 
Gomera, but less abundant. Its chief town is La Villa de 
Valverde. 

Santa Cruz de Teneriffe, Friday, ) 
October 11, 1833. \ 



LETTER XVII 



Natural History. 



Geology. — The whole of this archipelago is particu- 
larly characterized by its igneous origin, and according to 
the conjecture of many geologists, this, together with the 
Azores, the Madeiras and the Cape de Verds, is the 
remains of a submerged chain of mountains, probably the 
ancient isle of Atlantis, which is in no way contradictory 
to the acknowledged laws of nature. But to verify or 
refute this conjecture will require more time than is allotted 
to my task. 

The question has often been agitated, whether *' the 
archipelago of the Canary Islands contains any rocks of 
primitive or secondary formation ; or is there any produc- 
tion observed, that has not been modified by fire ? ^' To 
this interesting question, I will reply that there are. On 
the authority of Broussonet, the island of Gomera contains 
mountains of granite and mica-slate; and on a hill above 
Guimar in Teneriffe, fragments of the latter substance, 
containing beautiful plates of specular iron, have been 
found. In passing over Las Cafiadas, I repeatedly ob- 
served masses of granitic lava which had evidently been 
thrown from the crater of the Peak. From these facts, it 
appears that in this archipelago, as well as the Andes of 
Cluito, in Auvergne, Greece, and a greater portion of the 
globe, the subterranean fires have forced their way through 
the rocks of primitive formation. 

From the information of several well-informed gentle- 
men of this island, I learn that there are secondary forma- 
tions in Grand Canary, Lanzarote, Fuerteventura, Gra- 
ciosa, and Teneriffe. At Lanzarote, there are large quan- 
tities of calcareous stone which the natives burn into lime. 



80 CANARY ISLANDS. 

On Graciosa, there are beds of marl, containing large quanti- 
ties of chalk which strongly effervesces with nitric acid, 
'^ and even on points where it is found in contact with the 
basalt." * Near the foot of the mountain of Tagayga 
between Realejo de Abaxo and San Juan de la Rambla, 
I am told that there are found a species of marble, and 
some vegetables, either incrusted with calcareous sand, or 
are petrified. Teneriffe, also, exhibits among its alluvial 
deposits, an abundance of clayey calcareous tufa, which 
alternates with volcanic brecciae, and which, according to 
Mr. Viera,t contains, near San Juan de la Rambla, and 
Candelaria, plants, impressions of fishes, buccinites, and 
other fossil marine productions. Just on the borders of 
El Llano de Gaspas, I observed a great number of the 
impressions of ferns on some horizontal beds of basaltes, 
and in a stratum of brecciae in a ravine between Santa 
Ursula and Port Orotava, I observed several recent terres- 
trial shells, (Helix?) 

Geology and Mineralogy of Teneriffe. In travelling 
from the sea-shore to the summit of the mountains, the 
lowermost stratum that we meet with, is composed of huge 
masses of yellowish-brown basaltes, generally columnar, 
and somewhat irregular in their forms, compact and par- 
tially decomposed. They contain hornblende, olivine, and 
translucent pyroxenes, the latter being of a perfectly lamel- 
lar fracture, of a tender olive-green tint, and often crys- 
talized in six-sided prisms. The first of these substances 
is extremely rare on this island, and very seldom occurs in 
the modern lavas. Directly above these ancient basaltes, 
there are strata of brecciae resembling volcanic tufa, which 
are found on both sides of the island, situated about 300 
or 400 feet above the ocean. They contain fragments of 
the same basaltes that they cover, and often recent terres- 
trial shells ; and it is asserted by Mr. Viera, that the 
remains of marine petrifactions are found in them. Next 
in succession above, is a stratum of ferruginous earth, over- 
laid with a dark argillaceous soil, containing crystals of 
pyroxene, and fragments of compact lava. Next comes a 



* Humboldt. f Noticias Historicas de las Canarias, 1. i. p. 35. 



CANARY ISLANDS. 81 

lofty range of mountains which encircle the Peak, and 
extend themselves towards Laguna, and la Punta de Naga, 
their highest pinnacle being elevated about 9000 feet above 
the level of the ocean. They appear to be composed prin- 
cipally of basaltes of more recent origin than those of the 
lower stratum, but they contain a variety of other sub- 
stances. Near La Punta de Naga are found zeolites, and 
a greater portion -of their highest pinnacles near La Agua 
Mansa, is composed of ferruginous sand which appears to 
have withstood the action of fire. Just on the borders of 
El Llano de Gaspas, we meet with large masses of very 
ancient basaltes which contains some distinct impressions 
of ferns. On the southern side of this range of moun- 
tains, in El Valle de Ucanca, there is found an abund- 
ance of feldspathic lava, and near by, at La Agua Agria 
are large beds of talcose slate. And in the same range 
on the eastern side of El Valle de Santiago, there 
occurs an abundance of pyroxenic lava containing olivine, 
and in a deep stratum of yellowish earth resembling tufa, 
there are found millions of crystals of pyroxene of a very 
large size, and a variety of forms. But whether these 
substances found on the southern side of the mountains 
are the products of the present volcano, it is difficult to 
determine. 

This range of mountains, and the products of the present 
volcano, are separated by strata of tufa, puzzolana, and 
other disinteo^rated lavas. A beautifid varietv of the 
former occurs on the northern side of the mountain near 
El Valle de Ucanca. The currents of lava that I met with 
on the slopes of these mountains, were black masses, par- 
tially decomposed, and often cellular, having oblong pores. 
Their basis is wacke, and when porous, they resemble 
amygdaloid. Their fracture is irregular, and in some 
instances, conchoidal. They are not divided into regular 
columns, but occur in very thin layers irregularly inclined. 
They contain a considerable quantity of olivine, small 
grains of magnetic iron, and augites, the color of the latter 
varying from a deep green to an olive tint. 

Next in succession above the tufas, etc., comes the 
great elevated llano of Las Cafiadas, which contains about 
ten square leagues, and is composed principally of small 



82 CANARY ISLANDS. 

fragments of pumice-stones, which are often reduced to 
powder resembling ashes. In examining them with a lens, 
there may be discovered among them, minute particles of 
feldspar and pyroxene. This llano separates the dark, 
basaltic, and earth-like lavas from the vitreous and feld- 
spathic varieties, the bases of the latter being obsidian, 
pitch-stone, and pyroxene. The feldspathic lavas are 
destitute of hornblende and mica, and are of a blackish- 
brown, often varying to the deepest olive-green. They 
contain large crystals of feldspar which are not fissured, 
and seldom vitreous. When the basis of the feldspathic 
lava changes from pitch-stone to obsidian, the color is paler 
and mixed with gray ; in this case, the feldspar passes by 
imperceptible gradations from the common to the vitreous. 
Sometimes both varieties are found in the same fragment. 
There are three varieties of obsidian met with, on the 
Peak. The first occurs in large blocks several yards long, 
which often have a globular figure. It contains a quantity 
of vitreous feldspar, of a snowy whiteness, and has a most 
brilliant pearly lustre. It is of a brownish-black, but little 
translucent at the edges, and has an imperfect conchoidal 
fracture, and passes into pitch-stone. The second variety 
is found in much smaller fragments, and is generally of a 
greenish-black, but sometimes of an obscure gray, and 
very seldom of a jet black. Its fracture is perfectly con- 
choidal, and is extremely translucent at the edges. The 
third variety is the most remarkable of the whole, from its 
connexion with pumice-stones. It is like the former, of a 
greenish-black, and sometimes of an obscure gray, but 
occurs in very thin plates, alternating with layers of pumice- 
stone. The fibres of the pumice-stone are very seldom 
parallel to each other, and perpendicular to the strata of 
obsidian ; they are most commonly irregular, and abestoi- 
dal, and instead of being disseminated in the obsidian, 
they are found simply adhering to one of the external sur- 
faces of the substance.* 



* Obsidian was called by the Guanches, tahnna, the splinters of which they 
fixed to their lance?, instead of iron. They carried on a considerable trade in it 
with such of the neighboring islands, as were accessible to them. 



CANARY ISLANDS. 83 

Near the verge of the crater, and often upon its walls, 
there is a saline efflorescence, called by the natives el 
salitron. They are very eager to procure it for the prepa- 
ration of matches which they make, by dipping pieces of 
paper or tow into a solution of it. The matches readily 
become ignited, and do not sparkle as if dipped into pure 
nitre. Along the sea-shores of the northern side of this 
island, there are often found hanging from the cliffs, sta- 
lactitic salt, of a very pure quality. 

Having examined the exterior structure of the island, 
and the composition of its volcanic productions from the 
sea-shore to the top of the mountain, I will now offer a few 
remarks on its internal structure and its eruptions. 

As the Peak appears to rise amidst a system of basaltes 
and old lava, all of igneous origin, it has been supposed 
that this collossal pyramid is the effect of a progressive 
accumulation of lavas, or that it contains in its centre, a 
nucleus of primitive rocks, covered with lavas which are 
the same substances modified by fire. To verify or refute 
this supposition, would cause me to wander too far from 
the principal object of my task. 

In regard to the first eruptions of the Peak, we seek in 
vain in the writings of the Greek and Roman geographers, 
which contain no passage that we can reasonably apply 
to this volcano. Of all the written testimonies, the oldest 
I have found of the activity of this volcano, dates from the 
latter part of the fifteenth and the beginning of the six- 
teenth centuries. In the life of Christopher Columbus, 
by his Son, it is related that in August, 1492, he saw 
flames gush out of the Peak in the night; and in the nar- 
rative of a voyage by Aloysio Cadamusto, who landed at 
these islands in 1505, he positively affirms that this moun- 
tain burns without interruption, and that the fire has been 
seen by christians retained in slavery by the Guanches. 
The Peak, therefore, was not at those times in the state of 
repose that it exists at present, nor have we any authentic 
account that fire or even smoke, has been seen to rise from 
the summit, that was visible at a distance since those 
dates. 

It is supposed that the whole group of these islands is 
placed, as it were, on a great submarine volcano, and that 



84 CANARYTSLANDS. 

the fire sometimes forces its way out of one island, and 
sometimes out of another. TenerifFe alone contains in its 
centre an immense pyramid, which discharges lavas from 
one century to another ; whereas the other islands have 
broken out in various places. The following is a state- 
ment of the volcanic eruptions which have occurred since 
the middle of the sixteenth century. 

On the 15th of April, 1558, a volcano burst out in the 
isle of Palma, near a spring, in El Partido de los Llanos. 
A mountain rose from the earth and formed a crater at the 
top, which discharged a current of lava 200 yards in 
breadth, and more than 5000 in length. The lava flowed 
to the ocean, raising the temperature of the water at a 
considerable distance around, and destroyed a great num- 
ber of fishes. 

On the 13th of November, 1646, another volcanic 
mouth was opened in Palma, near Tigalate, and two other 
mouths were formed near the sea-shores. In 1677, a third 
eruption took place. La Montana de las Cabras threw 
out scoriae and ashes through a multitude of small mouths, 
which were formed in succession. 

On the 31st of December, 1704, the Peak of Tenerifie 
formed a lateral eruption in El Llano de los Infantes above 
Ycore, near Guimar, which was preceded by a tremendous 
earthquake.* On the 5th of the January following, a 
second opening took place in El Baranco de Amerchiga, 
a league from Ycore. The lavas were so abundant, that ' 
El Valle de Fasnia, or Areza, was nearly filled up. This 
second mouth continued to discharge lavas eight days, and 
then ceased flowing. A third mouth was formed on the 
2d of February, the same year, in La Canada de Arafo. 
The lavas divided into three currents, and would have 
destroyed the town of Guimar, had they not been stopped 
in El Valle de Melosar by a chain of rocks, which formed 
an insuperable barrier to their course. During these 
eruptions, Orotava experienced heavy shocks. 

On the 5th of May, 1706, another grand lateral eruption 
of the Peak took place. The mouth opened at the south 



* At TenerifFe, the shocks have hitherto been very inconsiderable, and limited 
to a small extent of ground. 



CANARY ISLANDS. 85 

of the port of Garachico, which was at that tune the j5nest 
and the most frequented harbor in the island. Two cur- 
rents of lava rushed down upon the town, and in a few 
hours, not a building was left standing. This port was so 
filled up that the lavas formed a promontory in the midst 
of it. In the vicinity of the town, hills vose in the plain, 
the springs became dry, and the rocks, shaken by frequent 
earthquakes, remained naked, without vegetation, and with- 
out mould. 

On the 1st of September, 1730, an awful catastrophe 
took place on the island of Lanzarote. A new volcano 
broke out at Temanfaya, the lavas of which, and the 
earthquakes that accompanied the eruption, destroyed a 
considerable number of villages. The shocks continued 
about six years, and a greater portion of the inhabitants of 
this island fled to Fuerteventura. Daring this ei jption a 
column of thick smoke was seen to issue from the sea, and 
pyramidal rocks rose above its surface, and gradually aug- 
menting, became a part of the island itseJf 

On the 9th of June, 1798, another lateral eruption .of 
the Peak broke out on the flanks of La Montana Colorado 
or Chahorra, which lasted three months and six days. ] 
The lavas were discharged by four mouths, placed in a ^ 
right line. When the lava had gained twentv or thirty i 
feet in height, it advanced three feet every hour, and rocks ] 
were ejected from its mouth to the height of more than 
8,000 feet. 

In the autumn of 1824, a second eruption in the island 
of Lanzarote occurred on its northern side, and continued 
intermittantly for nearly three months, and from one of 
the craters a muddy saline water of boiling heat was 
ejected to the height of thirty-six feet. Happily, the 
injury caused by this eruption was very light. 

The lateral eruptions of the Peak of Tenerifle is a very 
remarkable geological phenomenon, which contributes to 
create mountains that are produced by the principal vol- 
cano, and appear to be isolated. I observed- that almost 
all the extinct craters, except- the principal one, that the 
island affords, occur below the girdle of mountains that 
surround the Peak. On the southern side of the island, in 
El Valle de las Calderas, there are nearly forty conical 
8 



i 

^ 



86 



CANARY ISLANDS. 



hills, having extinct craters ; and in the Valley of Orotava 
there are two considerable hills which rise in the form of 
bells. One is called by the natives La Montanita de la 
Villa, and the other La Montanita del Frayle, the former 
being elevated about 800 feet above the ocean, and the 
latter about 1,009 feet. Humboldt advanced an opinion 
that these paps owe their origin to the lateral eruptions of 
the great volcano. They have already emitted lavas, and 
according to the tradition of the Guanches, the eruption 
of La Montanita de la Villa took place in 1430. The 
craters of both of these hills are still visible, and some por- 
tions of their black scoriaceous sides are yet Unproductive 
of vegetation. 

The following table exhibits the names of the principal 
points of TenerifFe, with their approximate heights above 
the level of the ocean, and the temperature of the air and 
of boiling-hot water, by Fahrenheit's scale. 

Temp, of the Air. Of Hot Water. Approximate Height. 



El Pico de Teyde, 


72^ . 


190° 


12,200 feet 


La Rambleta, 


77 


190-9 


11,700 " 


La Cueva del Yelo, 


43 • . 


192 


11,100 « 


La Alta Vista, . 


70. . 


192-75 . 


10,600 " 


La Esiancia de los Yngleses, 


74^ . 


194-5 


9,800 " 


La Montana de Taygayga, . 


70 ( . 
76 . 


199 


7,000 " 


Las Canadas, 


2D0 


6,500 " 


La Enneta de la Chasna, . 


66 . 


203-5 


4,700 " 


La Agua Mansa, 


64 j . 


205 


3,700 " 


Ycod del Alto, . 


76 i . 


206 


3,200 " 


JEll Llano de la Laguna, 


75 -'. . 


207-8 


2,200 " 



The island of Teneriffe is particularly remarkable for 
the infinite number of caverns which it contains. They 
are found in almost every declivity that the island affords, 
and manyjof them are of surprising extent. In the vicinity 
of Ycod tfiere is one which has been penetrated more than a 
quarter of a mile without reaching its extremity ; and 
there is another in the vicinity of Santa Cruz, in which 
numbers of people have been lost for their temerity in 
going ill too far ; consequently its mouth has been closed 
by a wall. Many of these caverns on the more elevated 
portions of the mountains serve as reservoirs for ice and 
snow, and indeed they form the finest ice-houses in the 
world, preserving it during the hottest summers. 

The investigation of caverns has as much relation to 
the geologist as it has to the antiquary, for it has been as- 



% 



C A N A R Y ISLANDS. 87 

certained that in caves in the south of France, human re- 
mains have been found along with bones of quadrupeds 
the species of which are now extinct. The examination of 
caves and caverns has been particularly recommended to 
travellers, as not only being intimately connected with the 
early history of man, and his condition in a low state of 
civilization, even at the present day, but also with the 
geological history of our species, and that of several of the 
more powerful and interesting species of quadrupeds. 

Although a considerable quantity of rain falls here at 
certain seasons, these islands afford comparatively but few 
springs. This may be accounted for, however, by exam- 
ining the nature of the rocks. When two formations come 
together, the lower one dense and compact, and its upper 
surface above the level of the neighboring country, and 
the upper formation soft and porous, springs will occur 
abundantly around the line of junction of the two forma- 
tions. In this case, the rain filtrates through the porous 
formation, and progresses downward until it is arrested by 
the surface of the dense formation, where it accumulates, 
and either remains stationary, or finds an opening at the 
surface, and issues in the form of springs. On the con- 
trary, if the porous formation extended below the level of 
the surrounding country, the percolating water would 
descend so far that it could not find an issue. This dis- 
closes a very important fact relating to the geology of 
Teneriffe. For I have not observed in any part of the 
island, where a spring took its first issue from the earth 
below 3,000 feet above the level of the ocean, which proves 
that there exists a formation of 4ense and compact rocks 
below that height. 

Springs of mineral waters occur in many parts of the 
island, the most important of which I mentioned in a for- 
mer part of this work."* 

Botany of Teneriffe.— Strictly speaking, the island 
of Teneriffe, in its present state, exhibits but three zones 
of vegetation. They occur one above the other, and 
occupy, on the steep declivity of the Peak, its whole per- 

* Vide pp. 57 et 59. 



OO CANARY ISLANDS. 

pendicular height. The two lower regions occupy about 
3,000 feet each ; and the upper one, the remaining portion 
of the mountain. 

The first zone commences at the sea-shore, and com- 
prises nearly all the inhabited partsof the island, and those 
which are under careful cultivation. It contains nearly 
all the culinary vegetables and fruits of the temperate and 
the torrid zones, besides a great number of indigenous 
plants. In this region, we meet with eight species of 
arborescent euphorbise, two species of mesembryanthema, 
two of cacaliae, one of the draccena, and other plants with 
naked trunks, succulent leaves, and bluish-green fruit, 
which exhibit features of African vegetation. It is in this 
zone, too, that we find the date-tree, the banana, the sugar- 
cane, the orange, the cocoa, and the bread-fruit, all dis- 
tinct inhabitants that adorn and increase the majesty of 
the landscape in regions near the equator. 

The second zone commences at an elevation of about 
3,000 feet above the ocean, and includes nearly all the 
sylvan tracts that the island affords. This region, con- 
stantly irrigated by clouds and springs, presents a scene of 
perpetual verdure. Lofty forests of the chesnut/, the pine, 
the laurel, and the oak, crown the hills, intermingled with 
the visnea, the olea, the myrica, the sideroxylon, the 
arbutus, the juniperus, and a vast quantity of ferns. It is 
in this region that we find the golden campanula, the 
chrysanthema, the hyperica, and a number of aromatic 
plants. 

The third and last zone commences at the height of 
about 6,000 feet above the level of the ocean, and includes 
the whole of l.as Canadas, and the vast pyramid of the 
Peak. It is the most sterile part of the island, where heaps 
of pumice-stones, obsidian, and tracts of lava, impede the 
growth of vegetation. Its principal plants are those ver- 
dant islets of Alpine broom, ( Spartlum nuhigenum. Lin.) 
a few species of herbaceous plants, and the beautiful Viola 
cheiranthifolia which flourishes amid regions of eternal 
snows and barren grandeur. Towards the summit of the 
Peak, the urceolariaand other cryptogamous plants appear, 
and even some are found within the verge of the crater. 



CANARY ISLANDS. 



89 



The following table exhibits the names of some of the 
most important species of plants that grow on this island, 
and the approximate height above the ocean that they 
vegetate, with the names of their locations. It has refer- 
ence only to their perfect vegetation, not to their mere 
existence above the soil, from local or incidental causes. 
For example, plants flourish in warm valleys on the south 
side of the island at a greater elevation than on the north 
side, and many plants appear of a stinted growth far above 
their natural zone. 



Barnes and localities. 



.Approximate elevation above the ocean , 

* Pinus canariensis, vicinity of Chasna, 
Capressus sempervirens, Chasna, 

* Juniperus cedro, in the vicinity of La Punta de Teno, 
Platanus orientalis. Botanic Garden at Durasno, 
Plataniis araericana, do 
Fagus sylvatica, Valley of Orotava, 
Castanea vesca, La Agua Mansa, 

* Cluercus canariensis, Montana de Tagayga, 
Populus alba, Botanic Garden at Durasno, 
Morus alba, Valley of Orotava, . 

" nigra, " " 

Ficus carica, San Miguel, 

* Ricinus communis, Villa Orotava, 

* Euphorbia canariensis, Guia, 

* Trifolium fragiferum, Valley of Orotava, 

* Lupinus angustifolia, Ycod del Alto, 

* Genista canariensis. El Llano de Gaspas, 

* Spartium nubigenum. Las CaSadas, 
Mimosa farnesiana, Laguna, . • 
Amygdalus persica, Chasna, ^ 

* Fragaria vesca, Valley of Orotava, 
Rosa centifolia, Botanic Garden at Durasno, 
Pyrus communis, Villa Orotava, 

" raalus, La Agua Mansa, 

* Cactus Opuntia, Guia, 
Ribes rubrum, Villa Orotava, 
Linum usitatissimum, Matanzas, 
Dianthus virginea, Botanic Garden at Durasno, 

* Ruta graveoiens, Laguna, 

* Viola cheiranthifolia, La Rambleta, 
Gossypium arboreum, Botanic Garden at Durasno, 
Vitis" vinifera, Los Silos, 
Citrus aurantium. Botanic Garden at Durasno, 

" medica, Santa Cruz, 
Isatis tinctoria, Laguna, . 
Brassica oleracea, Laguna, 

" rapa, do. 

* Daucus carota, do. 

* Papaver rhceas, do. 

* Anethum fceniculum. Valley of Orotava, 

* Apium petroselinum, Villa Orotava, 

* Rubia fruticosa^ Laguna, . . . 



* Those names which have a star before them, indicate indigenous plants. 



5,400 


feet. 


4,500 


ft 


4,000 


(C 


300 


u 


300 


(C 


3,000 


li 


3,700 


u 


4,000 


(( 


300 


«c 


1,500 


(.1 


1,500 


ii 


2,200 


il 


1,000 


u 


1,000 


ii, 


1,500 


ii 


3,200 


li 


5,000 


ii 


6,500 


li 


2,200 


li 


4,000 


a 


3,000 


" 


300 


(C 


1,000 


cc 


3,700 


It 


1,000 


li 


1,000 


li 


2,000 


li 


300 


li 


2,200 


li 


11,700 


11 


300 


It 


800 


li 


300 


11 


100 


11 


2,200 


li 


2,200 


cc 


2,200 


cc 


2,200 


cc 


2,200- 


cc 


1,500 


cc 


1,000 


11 


2,200 


11 



^8 



I i 



r 



90 



CAN A RY ISLANDS. 



* Artemisia arborescens, Valley of Orotava, 
CottVa arabiea, Lacuna, 
Lactuca sativa, La§;una, 
Convolvulus batatis, Lacuna, 

^CapsicuiTi annuum, Lacuna, 
^^olanum tuberosum^ La,m:ia, 

Thymus serphyllum, Lag^una, 

Lavandula spica, Lacuna, 

* Rosmarinus officinalis, Laj^una, 
Olia euop-a, Villa Orotna, 
Laurus persea, Valley of Orotava, 
Laurus cinnamomum, Lnguna, 
Artocarpus incisa, liagunf, 
Musa para'Jisiaca, Santa Cruz, 

'* sapientu n, S inta (yiuz, 
A«rave americana, Matanzas, 
Allium cepa, Villa Orotava, 
DracT?na draco,* Villa Orotavaj 
Phoenix dictylifera. Villa Orotava, 
Zea mays, Chasna, 
Secalft cereale. Valley of Orotava, 
Triticum sestivum, Chasna, 

* Hordeum mj|;inum, Matanzas, 
Aveni sativa, (^hasna, 

* Saccharum officinarum San Juan de la Rambla, 



500 feet. 

2,200 " 

2,200 " 

2,200 " 

2,290 " 

2,200 « 

2,200 " 

2,200 « 

2,200 « 

1,000 " 

500 « 

2,200 « 

2,200 « 

200 " 

100 '« 

2,000 « 

1,000 « 

900 « 

900 " 

4,000 « 

3,000 " 

4,000 « 

2,000 " 

4,000 " 

500 « 



Zoology. — In the present division, I propose to exhibit 
a brief summary of the natural history of the animals 
belonging to these islands, and for the sake of order, con- 
tinue with a certain degree of systematic arrangement. 
The first class that comes under consideration, is the 

Mammalia. These islands contain no wild animals at 
present, except rabbits, t ferrets, | and a few wild stoats § 
in the more elevated parts of TenerifFe, and in Fuerte- 
Ventura, where they have been known from time immemo- 
rial. The rabbits are of a much smaller size than those 
of the same species in Europe, hundreds of whichi are 
destroyed every year by the ferrets. In Gomera, there was 
formerly a species of small deer, (Cervus) but it is now 
many years since it was exterminated. The present domes- 
tic animals are horses, asses, mules, oxen, camels, goats, 
sheep, swine, cats^and dogs. Of the latter, a fine, pow- 
erful brindled variety yet exists in Lanzarote, the genuine 
descendants of the breed formerly so numerous in a wild 
state, as to have caused the name of Canaries to be given 
to these islands, in allusion to which, the supporters of the 



^ 



*This tree, although a native of the East Indies, is also found on Gomera, Palma, 
and Canary. 

f Lepus coniculus. J Viverra furor. $Caprahircus. Lin. 



CANARY ISLANDS. 91 

provincial coat of arms are two dogs. The r^ rig of the 
dogs here, even those brought from Europe, r is degen- 
erated into a howling noise. At the equator, xb well as 
towards the poles, this animal almost entirel)^ loses his 
voice. It has been asserted, that there were formerly 
large numbers of wild asses, [Eqiais asinus. Lin.) on some 
of these islands, and many of their descendants exist here 
at the present day, partaking of a considerable share of 
native elegance. Although this animal has long been 
condemned to a state of the lowest servitude in Europe, 
and looked upon with contempt, it exhibits, in its natural 
state, an appearance of great beauty and vivacity. It is 
said that the original stock were white, or a pale silver- 
gray, with a slight tinge of straw-color on the sides of the 
neck and body ; along the back ran a deep-brown stripe 
of thickish, wavy hair to the beginning of the tail, and 
this stripe crossed over the shoulders, as in the domesti- 
cated animaU)y another of a similar color ; but it is said that 
this w^as peculiar to the male only. At the time that these 
islands were invaded by the Normans, the natives possessed 
all the other animals before enumerated, except horses and 
camels. There are but a few of the latter on Teneriffe, 
while they live and propagate by hundreds in Lanzarote 
and Fuerteventiirai These ^^ ships of the desert,'' as well 
as horses, were brought to these islands in the 15th century, 
by the Normans. 

Birds. Although the general aspect and situation of 
these islands are unfavorable to the existence and multi- 
plication of birds, there is a considerable variety. 

The first that claim our attention are the carnivorous 
tribes. Of the falcon genus, there are several species, one 
of which migrates to Africa. There are also several spe- 
cies of striges, one of which is called by the natives, el apa- 
gador, and creates great terror among them in the night. 

Of the hirundine family, there are the swift, (Hirundo 
opus) the common swallow, (TL rustica) and the martin, 
(H. urhica. Lin.) the latter remaining here at least nine 
months in the year. 

Among the fringillidse, we notice the goldfinch, (Frin- 
gilla carduelis) the chaffinch, (F. coslebs) and the green 
canary-bird, (F. canaria, Lin.) the last of which I noticed 
in a former letter. 



92 CANARYTSLANDS. 

Of the raven genus, we meet with the carrion-crow, 
(Corvus carone. Lin.) and a species of raven. There is 
also a species of upupa found here. 

Next in consideration, come the gallinaceous tribes. 
To pass over the common domestic fowls of Europe, we 
find at Teneriffe, the Barbary partridge, (Perdix petrosa. 
Briss.) the commm quail, ( Tetrao coturnix. Lin.) and 
in Fuerteventura, there is found a small species of grouse 
called by the natives, la gang a. It has a black breast 
and very small legs and feet. In the same island, there 
is a species of bustard, nearly as large as a turkey, called 
by the natives, la albutarda. It is never known to fly, 
but runs along, flapping its wings very fleetly. It is so 
watchful that it cannot be taken by the sportsman without 
his devising some peculiar stratagem. Neither of these 
birds will breed in any of the other islands, nor will these 
grouses remain there, for their young have been transported 
to Palma, where there were none, and even their eggs have 
been carried there and hatched ; but so soon as the brood 
had strength to fly, they proceeded to their favorite isle. 

Of the columbine genus, we meet with the turtle-dove, 
i^Columha turiur. Lin.) and the radiant plumage of the 
migratory pigeon 

" Fills many a damp obscure recess 
With lustre of saintly show." 

Among the wading birds, the woodcock and the snipe 
inhabit these islands. The other water-birds that frequent 
these shores, are the long-winged terns, (Sterna teniiiros^ 
tris. Temm.) Several species of gulls, and the stormy 
petrel, (Thalassidroma wilsonii, Bonap.) 

Reptiles. Intermediate between the birds and fishes, 
are the reptile race ; but fortunately for these islands, 
they do not brood with those horrid monsters that spread 
terror to almost every portion of the African regions. 

Among the chelonian reptiles, there are two species of 
Cheloniai, the green-tortoise, (Chelonia my das. Brongn.) 
and one other kind. 

Among the saurian tribes, we observe but two species 
of true lizards, {Lacerta. Lin.) one of which abounds 
here, and is very destructive to the grapes. Some of them 



CANARY ISLANDS. 9^ 

are nearly a foot in length, marked with an azure spot on 
each cheek, which they inflate when disturbed. We also 
notice a small gecko* here, called by the natives, el peren-^ 
quen. It secretes itself in some dark corner in the houses 
in the day-time, and moves about in the night, when its 
eyes appear luminous like those of the cat. It is as bloated 
and loathsome in appearance as the toad, and is regarded 
as harmless. 

Of the ophidian reptiles or serpents, not a species exists, 
nor can be made to live here. And it is asserted that there 
is not a venomous animal of any kind to be found on these 
islands. 

Among the batrachian reptiles, or frogs, there is but 
one small species which frequent pools and springs. 

Fishes. The next great class that dem.ands our atten- 
tion, is that of the finny race. From the inconceivabfe^ 
and continuous nature of the element which they inhabit, 
and the ample facilities that they possess for dispersion, it 
is difficult to give even a general account of them. For 
the present, however, I must confine myself to a brief 
allusion to a few species. 

1st. Scomber oides. — Several of this family occur, among 
which we meet with the tunny, (Tliynnus, Cuv.) and the 
sword-fish, (XipMas gladius. Lin.) 

3d. Labroides,' — In this family, we notice the parrot-fish, 
(Scarus. Lin.) 

3d. FistularidcB. — In this family, we find a species of 
pipe-fish, ( Fistularia. Lin.) 

4th. Esoces. — In this family, we recognize the flying* 
fish, (Eiocetus volitans. Lin.) 

5th. ClupecB, In this family, we meet with the com- 
mon herring, (Clupea harengns. Lin.) 

6th. Gaditf^r— In this family, occur myriads of cod, 
(Gadus morrJiwk:, LiN>) 

7th. Anguilliformes. — In this family, we notice several 
species of eels, , among which, we find the Conger, (Mu-- 
rcEna conger. L|^.) 

8th. Selacki0^—ln this family, we meet with the shark, 
(Carcharias. €uv.) and the skate, (Raia, Lin.) 



* Askalarotes. Cuv. 



94 CANARY ISLANDS. 

MoUusca and Shdh, The next classes that irerit our 
attention, are the moilusca and conchifera of these islands. 
They are peculiarly rich in shells, many species of which 
are distinguished by their beautiful forms and splendid 
colorings, and are highly valuable in consequence of their 
comparatively rare occurrence in cabinets. But unfor- 
tunately, the heavy surf which constantly thunders round 
these rocky shores, appears to prevent them from being 
gathered in a perfect state. 

A few of the more remarkable animals of these classes 
are as follows : — 

In the order cephalopoda, we meet with the cuttle-fish, 
properly so called, (Sepia officinalis/) the Spirula peronii, 
and the Argonauta argo. 

In the order pulmona, we observe the common field-slug, 
(Limax agrestis,) and a number of helices, among which, 
we notice the Helix lactea, H. bidentafis, H. diaphana, H. 
plicatula, H. maritima, and the H. aspeja: we also observe^ *'. ^ 
the Lima squamosa, Carocolla planaria, C. hispid ula, and 
Pupa maculosa. 

On several kinds of fuci about these shores, we notice 
the Scyllaea pelagica, and a species of doris. 

Among the other orders, we meet with the Bullaea 
aperta, Bulla ampulla, B. physis, Natica canrena, Tro- 
chus, (?) Scalaria communis, Cyclostoma flavula, Jan- 
thin a communis, Conus, (?) Cyprasa tigri, CJidLi^^, C. 
lurida, C. moneta, C. spurca, Marginella glabella^ M itra 
melaniana, Purpura rudolphi, Columbelh rus tica, Rici- 
nula morus, Triton nodife urn, (var.) Triton, (?) Doli- 
um perdix, (var.) Fusus, (?) Haliotis tuberculata, Patella 
vulgata, Spondylus geeaaropus, Pinna rudis, (var.) My- 
tilus elongatus, Cardita calyculata, Venerupis irus, Car- 
dium costatum, Lucina pe ten, Venus verrucosa, Mac- 
tra, (?) Balanus, (?) Serpula contortuplicata. 

Orutacea and Inset ts. -^AXihiugh. these two classes 
of animals are extremely interesting on these islands, I 
did not devote much attention to them for the want of 
time, consequently my readers must be contented with the 
following brief detail : — 

Among the Crustacea, we notice a species of lobster, 
(Astarus. Fab.) and several species of land and other 
crabs peculiar to intertropical countries. 



CANARY ISLA N D S . 95 

In the class arachnid es, we meet with several species of 
spiders, one kind of which the natives tell long stories 
about, as being of a very poisonous nature ; but no one 
can be found who has ever known any injury done by that 
animal. 

In the suctoria tribes, we meet with an abundance of 
fleas, (Pulex. Lin.) which are very noisome in the summer 
months. 

In the coleoptera order, there are to be found several 
species of carabici, aracng which, we observe the Carabus 
agrorum, (Oliv.) There also occur in this order, several 
species of pimeliae, tenebrionites, and curculionites. 

In the order orthoptera, we meet with myriads of 
cockroaches, (Bxitta. Lin.) and the mole-cricket, (Gryl- 
lus vulgaris. Oliv.) and the field-cricket, (G, campestris. 
Oliv.) In this order, too, we find several species of 
locusts, the most formidable of which, is the African locust, 
(Acrydium migratorius. Cuv.) alluded to in a former 
letter.^ 

In the order hemiptera, we find several species of cimes, 
in which we recognize the Cimexlectularius, (Lin.) much 
to be dreaded by the weary traveller when he retires to his 
night's repose. 

In the order neuroptera, we notice several species of 
dragon-flies, (LibUu'a. Fab.) eminently distinguished for 
the brilliancy of their hues. 

In the order hymenoptera, we observe several species of 
ichneumonides, among which, occur the Ichneumon mani- 
festor, and the I. bidentatus, (Oliv.) AVe also observe 
among the ants, the Formica rufa, (Oliv.) and like- 
wise several species of bees, among which, may be found 
wild, the common honey-bee, (Apis mellijica.) 

In the order lepidoptera, we meet wath the usual num* 
ber of butterflies, (P< p lir, L iy.) and moths peculiar to 
warm countries, among wnich, we find a large sphynx, 
and the silk- worm, (Bomhyx mori. Lin.) 

At last, we find in the order diptera, the usual quan- 
tity of flies and mosquetos, common to tropical climates, 



* Vide pp. 6 et 7. 



96 CANARY ISLANDS. 

which serve to keep the blood in free circulation, and prove 
exceedingly offensive at first, to the visitors of these islands. 
Animalia Radiata. I come now to the last of the ani- 
mal kingdom, called zoophytes, — '* although the lowest in 
the scale of animated beings, yet highly interesting in the 
sublime plan of creation. Their numbers exceed all cal- 
culation ; the minuteness of many species is such, that they 
cannot be discriminated by the aid of the most powerful 
microscopes/' Among this class of animals, these islands 
are not destitute of their share, but whatever relates to 
them I must pass over in silence. 

Meteorology. — Mr. Anderson, the naturalist, in the 
third voyage of Captain Cook, particularly recommends 
European invalids to go to Teneriffe on account of the 
equality of the temperature, and the mildness of the climate 
of these islands. The ground on this island rises in an 
amphitheatre, and presents, at the same time, the tempera- 
ture of almost every climate, from the scorching heats of 
Africa, to the cold of the higher Alps. Three hours' ride 
from any part of the sea-shore towards the centre of the 
island, will afford every degree of temperature that man 
can desire ; and none intolerable, except in winter, when 
the light atmosphere on the summits of the higher moun- 
tains becomes too much chilled. Indeed, so happy is the 
climate of Po rt Qrotav a, that the range of the thermometer 
during the year lb ^^^3-4-5 did not extend below 62° nor 
above 83^, althougn it sometimes surpasses for a day or 
two of south-west wind in autumn, but scarcely ever sinks 
below the former. 

No climate on the globe seems better fitted to dissipate 
melancholy and restore peace to an agitated mind, than 
this island. The unrivalled beauty of its situation, and 
the salubrity of the air, conspire to quiet the anxieties of the 
spirit, and invigorate the body, while the feelings are not 
depressed by the sultry heat, the pestilential vapors, nor 
the revolting sight of slavery which pervades almost every 
colony of the torrid zone. 

In winter, the climate of Laguna is extremely foggy, 
and the inhabitants often complain of cold. It has been 
remarked, that snow has never been known to fall in that 



CANARY ISLANDS. 97 

place, while it often falls in La Villa de la Orotava, which is 
situated at an elevation of about 1,000 feet above the level 
of the ocean. The climate of Santa Cruz is too hot in 
summer, but it makes a pleasant place of residence in 
the winter. 

During the months of April, May, June, October, Novem- 
ber, and December, the inhabitants of these islands expe- 
rience most of the time, a northerly wind ; while in the 
months of July, August, and September, the wind blows 
promiscuously from all quarters ; and during the winter 
months, they have a prevailing wind from the east or north- 
east, attended by awful tempests of wind, hail and rain ; 
but notwithstanding the calamities which they frequently 
occasion, and which the thunder-rod cannot infallibly pre- 
vent, they deserve to be considered as one of the greatest 
benefits that providence has bestowed on them. ^' They 
diffuse freshness through the atmosphere when it is in a 
confined and sultry state ; the plants resume their lively 
green, the flowers raise their drooping heads when their 
thirst has been quenched by the rain ; the crops and fruits, 
penetrated by the new warmth, ripen more rapidly, and 
man silently adores the Great Being whose power has 
been thus displayed.'^ 

Santa Cruz, Monday, ) 
October 14, 1833. \ 



LETTER XVIII 



Social Condition. 



As I commenced these letters by giving a general 
survey of these islands as they came from the hands of 
nature, it may not be improper to take a cursory view of 
the changes made by man ; of the arts and industry, and 
the social and moral existence of the present inhabitants. 
But a grand distinction must be made between the higher 
orders of society, and the middling and lower classes. 
Although the former are possessed with a considerable 
portion of philanthropy and urbanity, it must be acknowl- 
edged that the latter, though the descendants of an enlight- 
ened and powerful nation, are on the next stage to barba- 
rism. To them, most of the following remarks are strictly 
applied. 

Physical Distinction of the Natives, In taking a 
glance of the inhabitants of these islands, we view every 
variety of feature and complexion, from the fair and well- 
formed European to the ugly and filthy Hottentot, who 
vary in stature from the Lapland dwarf to the gigantic 
Guanche. The natives generally, however, are of a dark, 
sallow complexion which is the most conspicuous among 
the peasantry who have, for the most part, an agreeable 
physiognomy, and are well-proportioned. In general, they 
have full dark eyes, and an abundant supply of hair, which 
is often black, and terminates with a yellowish-brown hue, 
though many of them have light-colored hair and blue 
eyes. Their cheek-bones are frequently prominent ; the 
nose regular or is inclined to aquiline, and the face oval 
or round. They are generally endowed with a strictly 
moral and religious character, but possess a roving and 
enterprising disposition, and are said to be less industrious 
at home than abroad. They are exceedingly athletic, and 



100 CANARY ISLANDS. 

are susceptible of performing a great deal of labor, or of 
encountering the utmost hardships. The natives of Fuer- 
teventura are bony and well-set men, but spare, and very 
tawny ; they are excessively dirty in their person and 
habits, and will not work any longer than to supply their 
present wants. They are wild and ferocious, and ar^ 
excessively vindictive, and are provoked to anger by the 
most trivial offences. The proximity of this island and 
Lanzarote to the Barbary coast, and the frequent invasions 
made on them by the Moors in former times, together with 
the intercourse kept up between them at present, give 
the inhabitants many of the manners and customs, and 
even the looks of the natives of Barbary. For example, 
their manner of sitting balanced on the balls of their feet, 
with their hams resting on their heels, is decidedly a 
Moorish custom ; and the shortness of the distance that 
divides them, is indicated by one of their popular sayings : 

" De Tunege a Bcrberia, 
Se va, y se viene en un diaJ*'** 

Education, All the larger towns are provided with 
schools of some sort or other, mostly taught on the Lan- 
casterian system, and in a few instances, there are schools 
for teaching the ancient and modern languages, some of 
the sciences, and ornamental literature. There is also a 
university at Laguna, which was in a flourishing condi- 
tion a few years ago, but about the time of the revolution 
in France, it was considered a dangerous institution by 
the regal authorities, and it was ordered to be closed. 
Notwithstanding these advantages, not more than one half 
of the natives can read or write. The more wealthy por- 
tion of the inhabitants send their children abroad to be 
educated, or more latterly, they are sent to their better 
schools at home. It is a happy thing to find that most of 
the young people who have been kept at school, can read 
or speak the English or French languages. The prevail- 
ing language of the province is Spanish, and the higher 
classes speak the Castillian in its utmost purity ; but the 



* From Tunege, (a spot on the S.E. shore of Fuerteventura) you may go to Bar- 
bary and back again in a day. 



CANARY ISLANDS. 101 

lower classes have many provincial terms which would be 
perfectly unintelligible to an inhabitant of Spain. 

Domestic Accommodations. Most of the domestic ac- 
commodations throughout these islands, are simple, and 
often limited to the lowest degree of barbarism. There 
are few buildings in any part of the province that exceed 
two stories in height, and the greater number of dwellings 
are las casas terrcras, or those having a ground floor only. 
The better classes of houses are built on the same plan as 
those in other Spanish provinces, having many large win- 
dows, but often are only partially glazed. The walls are 
constructed of rough stone, laid in mortar or mud, and are 
generally plastered or whitewashed with their corners 
painted in black and white squares, which, although pain- 
ful to the eyes from the great reflection of the sun, give 
a very neat appearance to the outside. It is remarked that 
a visible improvement in domestic cleanliness has taken 
place in the larger towns within these few years past, 
yet there is room for much more. 

Among the poorer classes of the peasantry, their houses 
are often built of irregular stones, carelessly laid together 
without the use of mortar, forming a circular wall, which 
they cover with rafters and tiles, or straw ; and have no 
other floor than the bare earth. These habitations very 
often serve for the whole family and all the domestic 
stock, including men, women, children, pigs, poultry, 
goats, cats, dogs, etc., the latter animal being an indis- 
pensable member of almost every family in the province. 
Great numbers of the more wretched people dwell in 
caves, formed by nature in the rocks, and have no articles 
for convenience, except a few stones for seats and a bed of 
ferns. 

Mode of Living. The manner of living among the 
natives who possess a certain degree of wealth, is very uni- 
form. About an hour after rising in the morning, they 
breakfast, not making a meal of it as with us ; but each 
member of the family takes a cup of chocolate with a 
small quantity of toast or a sweet biscuit in his own 
apartment, or takes it in his hand and eats it when 
sauntering about the house. Two o'clock is generally 
the dinner hour, though in retired places, many yet keep 
9* 



102 CANARY ISLANDS. 

up the custom of dining at noon. During this meal, 
the street door is always closed, but kept wide open the rest 
of the day. The repast invariably begins with soup, and is 
succeeded by el piichero^ which is equivalent to the olio in 
Spain. It is composed of boiled beef, pork, mutton or 
other meat, fowls, and a variety of vegetables dressed 
together. After a greater or less number of made dishes 
and roast meat, it closes with a desert of fruit and an 
abundance of sweetmeats. After dinner la siesta occupies 
an hour and a half or two hours. A little after dark comes 
la merianda, or collation, when chocolate is taken with 
solid food, sweetmeats, and iced-water ; and at ten or eleven 
o'clock at night, they conclude with a hot supper. 

The aliment of the poorer classes is limited to three 
kinds of food, say Barbary salt-fish, potatoes, and gofio.* 
Bread or meat they seldom taste, and often in summer, 
they make many a meal entirely of the fruit of the prickly 
pear, and in time of famine, they are happy to make a 
meal from its leaves. In Hierro, they cure the flesh of 
such goats as are disabled by accident, and even it is said 
of such as die of disease, and when cut into pieces and 
dried by the sun, they call it tocinete. In Lanzarote and 
Fuerteventura, they eat without scruple the flesh of camels 
that die of age or of disease; and the foetus of the camel, 
w^hich they call elmajaltdo, is esteemed a great delicacy, and 
only is served upon occasions of particular festivity. In 
Paima and Gomera, they often reduce fern-roots (Pteris 
oqidliaa. Brous.) to powder, and mix it with barley flour 
in the preparation of the gofio. The garden lupine ( Lnpi- 
mis angustifolia) is extensively used for food, both for 
man and beasts. It is prepared by boiling in salt and 
water, which deprives it of its bitterness, and in that state, 
it is eaten without any other ingredients. 

All classes are equally abstemious both in eating and 
in drinking ; and indeed, intoxication is scarcely ever wit- 
nessed, except among the very lowest people, and then it is 
far from being common. These traits, and hospitality to 
the utmost extent of their powers, are a few of their many 
virtues. 



* Vide Note, p. 56, where this substance is described. 



CANARY ISLANDS. 103 

Diseases. The most common maladies, or those which 
may be regarded as endemical, are obstinate gastric affec- 
tions, oftentimes accompanied with loss of strength ; putrid 
and chronical diarrhoeas ; low and debilitating fevers , 
scorbutic cachexies ; and cutaneous eruptions of various 
kinds. Most of these diseases are confined to the lower 
classes of the natives, and seem to derive their origin from 
the faulty nutriment of their food throughout these islands. 
The more wealthy portion of the inhabitants generally 
enjoy excellent health, and live to a *^ good old age." 

Religious Customs. It is hardly necessary to rem. ark, 
that in all Spanish provinces, the catholic religion is uni- 
versally tolerated, and that the discipline of the church is, 
perhaps, more rigidly carried into effect, than in any other 
country. It will likewise be quite as unnecessary for me 
to repeat the general laws and ceremonies of that church, 
as they are invariably the same in all countries. But as 
far as local customs are concerned, which deviate from the 
general rules of the church, it may not be improper to 
name a few. 

Some of their acts of penance are extremely singular. 
At the feast of Candlemas, which is annually held at 
Candelaria, it has been no unusual thing to observe women 
with their arms extended, and five lighted tapers in each 
hand, shufflin gr on their knees, at the distance of a furlonof 
up to the altar of the chapel where the miracle-working 
virgin was placed, leaving a bloody track behind them, an 
undeniable proof of the pitiable condition of their knees. 
And men have as often been seen walking over the same 
ground with their arms extended in the form of a cross, 
with an iron crow-bar bound to each. 

Besides the regular religious orders, there are several 
associations here bearing the name of los coJfradias, or 
brotherhoods. They are exclusively composed of laymen, 
whose duties only consist in taking charge of the shrine 
or altar of w^hich they are devotees at las f unci ones ; of 
attending processions with their distinctive banners and 
uniform dress, and of accompanying the funerals of the 
members of their own fraternity. They raise pecuniary 
subscriptions among themselves, and solicit public dona- 



104 CANARY ISLANDS. 

tions on the day of their annual festival for defraying the 
necessary expenses attending their respective shrines. 

The brotherhood of El Gran Poder de Dios, (the great 
power of God) is composed of persons of the middling arid 
higher classes of society, the uniform of which, consists of 
a scarlet, silk gown, called laopa, in the shape of a carter's 
frock, worn over their ordinary habiliment. Their annual 
festival is held on the second Sunday of July, an uncom- 
fortable season in this latitude to perambulate the streets, 
which they do, bare-headed, at mid-day, with lighted tapers 
in their hands. 

Marriage and Funeral Ceremonies, The marriage cere- 
monies of the middling and lower classes are generally per- 
formed in church at an early hour of the day ; but the 
wealthy are married in the evening, at the house of the 
bride's parents. The people here look without repugnance 
on the matrimonial alliances of an uncle with his own 
niece, as well as men marrying the sisters of their former 
wdves. The practice in either case is confined, however, 
to the more opulent, who can afford the expense of obtain- 
ing the necessary license from Rome. 

When a widov/ marries, on the eve of her wedding, her 
residence is surrounded by a concourse of people, some of 
whom are tinkling mule-bells, sounding conch-shells, and 
uttering the most diabolical terms of reproach ; while 
others are performing on musical instruments, and lauding 
the couple in question to the skies, according to their 
approval or disapproval of their marrying. It is generally 
disapproved of for a widow to marry a second husband, 
w^hich, they say, indicates that she did not duly and virtu- 
ously appreciate her former husband. A similar custom 
prevails in Spain, called la cencerrada. 

In regard to their funeral ceremonies, the general points 
are the same as those of Spain and other catholic coun- 
tries, but I will cite a few peculiarities which were 
entirely new to me. When a wealthy person dies, his 
relatives perform one or more solemn offices for his. de- 
cease, on the days immediately succeeding that of the 
interment, and then in addition to the regular surplus 
fees, the clergy receive from them una ofrenda, or offering, 
which consists of provisions that are deposited in the 



CANARY ISLANDS. 105 

church. It is not uncommon on such occasions, to see a 
live sheep, a pipe of wine, and some sacks of grain, at 
the steps leading to the altar. 

The ceremonies of children under seven years of age 
usually take place in the night, if their parents are 
wealthy, and all their male friends send their servants with 
lanterns to accompany the procession. No females of any 
class attend as mourners to the burial. 

Many of the people of Hierro employ at their funerals, 
professional mourners, or weepers, who are always paid in 
proportion to the violence of their lamentations. 

Superstitions, The lower classes in these islands are 
very credulous, and in addition to their common faith in 
witches, ghosts, hobgoblins, signs, and auguries, one of 
their greatest fears, is the effect of the '' evil eye." This 
charm they do not believe to be always an act of volun- 
tary malice, but think that an excess of fondness or admo- 
nition of an object, anim.ate or inanimate, may pro- 
duce the same baneful influence. Anything in the 
shape of a horn is supposed to neutralize the spell ; and 
small pieces of bone worked into that shape, are fre- 
quently suspended on bird-cages, as preventives, or on 
the headstall of a well-conditioned mule or other beast ; 
and the countryman who has a good share of fruit in his 
vineyard, takes care to protect it from the evil eye, by 
planting about it a number of stakes wdth a ram's horn 
on each. 

It is not many years since a lady, every time her infant 
went out under the charge of her nurse, used to send 
another servant a few steps in advance, requesting every 
person who looked upon the child, to say Dios lo hendiga, 
(God bless it,) lest they should unwillingly cast upon it 
the dreadful mal cle ojo^ which operates, it is believed, in 
withering up, and causing to decline and perish, whatever 
it lights upon. 

When a countryman feels the apprehension of the pres- 
ence of a wMtch, he turns the waistband of his *' unmention- 
ables " inside out, or to make security doubly sure, pulls them 
off, and reverses them altogether. This is considered a charm 
of such potency, that no witch has the power of annoying 
any person while protected in this manner. Setting the 



106 CANARY ISLANDS. 

broom behind the door is also a sure way '^ to send a witch 
packing/' if she attempts to enter a house, where her first 
act would be to suck the breath out of any infant that she 
might meet. The sudden death of little children is 
always attributed by the vulgar, to this practise of the 
witches. 

A great source of dread to all classes of people, is the 
cry of a bird which they call el apagador, (the extin- 
guisher) from the resemblance of its note to that word 
pronounced in a peculiarly harsh manner. This bird is a 
species of owl and makes its appearance only in the night, 
and often may be seen by moon-light, skimming over the 
roofs of the houses, which is regarded as a sure forerun- 
ner of the death of some of the inmates of the dwelling 
that it frequents. 

Many of the peasant women on the north-western side 
of Teneriffe, protect themselves by the wearing of as many 
crucifixes, images, and amulets, about their person as 
they can procure, which they consider as charms, against 
every accident and disease, that mortality is heir to. 

Amusements. Like their parent stock, the Spaniards, 
and other southern nations, these islanders are not at all a 
domestic people : indeed, the climate leads them, in 
general, to prefer such amusements as can be enjoyed in 
the open air, in the cool of evening, which bring on very 
different habits, from those which originate around 

" Our own family and fire, 
Where love our hours employs ; 
No noisy neighbor enters here. 
No intermeddling stranger near, 
To spoil our heartfelt joys." 

As there are but few places of public amusement in 
these islands, and there being but little taste for literature, 
or the cultivation of any of the fine arts, except music, 
the diversions of the inhabitants are principally circum- 
scribed to frequenting the squares or public walks in the 
afternoon, and to attending Z(2s tertulias, or evening assem- 
blies. These in many respects, are extremely agreeable, 
as no invitation is necessary. Every person who is in the 
habit of visiting a house at any other time, is at liberty to 
walk in, whenever a party of this kind is held, stay as long 



CANARY ISLANDS. 107 

as he pleases, and go away whenever he may choose, after 
enjoying conversation, music, dancing, or gaming, as his 
fancy may dictate. The game that is usually played, is 
monte or lansquenet, the chances of which are among 
the greatest excitements that the natives seem capable of 
receiving. 

The lower classes are also addicted to gambling, but 
their chief amusements are playing the guitar, singing 
and dancing. Their principal dances, are las segiiidillas ^ 
las malaguenas, and what they call las folias. They 
are all accompanied by words adapted to the air, and 
these are very frequently composed, extemporaneously, 
each one of the party giving a verse alternately, which 
often contains neither rhyme, measure, music, nor mean- 
ing. Some of them, however, are noted for their quick- 
ness and repartee on these occasions, and introduce every 
passing occurrence into song with admirable success. 

The carnival masquerading, properly begins at noon 
on El Domingo gordo, (fat Sunday) and is continued 
on the Monday and Tuesday following ; but, a party will 
occasionally dress and go by night, and play a few antics 
at their friends' houses for nearly a month previous. The 
amusement of the carnival days is almost confined to the 
populace, who perambulate the streets, and disguise them- 
selves in fantastic and showy dresses, their contrivances 
displaying in general, but very little humor. Their gym- 
nastic sports consist principally of pitching the crow-bar, 
wrestling, and hand-ball. The two latter are mostly 
practised by the men of Fuerteventura, who particularly 
excel in wrestling, though their manner of taking the 
*' gripe '' and other laws of the game, would not agree with 
a scientific wrestler's notions of '^ fair play." 

Costumes. It is remarkable that so great a variety of cos- 
tumes should exist among so small and so scattering popula- 
tion as these islands afford, but an innate predilection, and 
jealous adherance to the pursuits, the habits, and the tastes 
of their forefathers, lead the natives generally, to retain such 
modes of dress, as not only distinguish the inhabitants of 
one island (rom those of another, but those of almost every 
town or village oi" the same, and even the occupations that 
they follow, which long association has rendered almost 



108 CANARY ISLANDS. 

sacrilegious to abandon. These, however, are limited to 
the middle and lower classes, the higher order of society 
following the European fashions, only varying from them 
in such a degree as the climate requires. 

The church dress of the ladies of the first class is simi- 
lar to that of the peninsula, and either is called la saya y 
mantilla^ or la mantilla y vesquiha, the principal part of 
which, is of black silk, ornamented at the bottom, accord- 
ing to the fashion or taste of the wearer. The most 
striking part of the dress is the long veil of black or 
white lace, which forms the only covering for the head. 
This is called la mantilla. 

The common out-door dress of the women of the mid- 
dling classes in the larger towns of some of these islands, con- 
sists of a white flannel or baize mantilla, drawn close over the 
face, and is called la tapada, which signifies that they are 
concealed. It is commonly worn over a black bombazine 
or silk gown when they go abroad, but on ordinary occa- 
sions, it is worn over their common dress. When the man- 
tilla is gracefully put on by a well-formed and neatly- 
dressed female, it is in the highest degree becoming ; and 
being closed over the face in such a manner as only to 
leave an opening wide enough to display a pair of spark- 
ling black eyes, shaded by the long projecting point of the 
mantilla, it gives to the whole appearance of the w^earer 
an air of mystery, well calculated to attract attention and 
curiosity. This dress is frequently assumed by the higher 
classes, as a sort of incognito on shopping and other occa- 
sions. 

Many of the wives of mechanics and shopkeepers wear 
a dress which seems to consist of nothing more than two 
petticoats made of black bombazine, fastened round the 
waist, the lower one worn the common way, and the other 
one thrown over the head. The lower one is confined 
tight to the waist, by six or seven plaited and folded runs 
with strings, and at the bottom it is lined with some light- 
colored stuff. The upper one entirely conceals the arms 
and hands, which are employed in closing the part w^hich 
falls over the forehead. When a person with this dress is 
viewed sideways, her appearance is truly ridiculous. The 
linen coif and bodice are peculiar to most of the peasant 



CANARY ISLANDS. 109 

women on the north-western part of TenerifFe. When 
going any distance from home they all wear mantillas, and 
indeed the only difference in their habit is the pattern of 
the nether garment, which is obtained by unravelling 
English baize, and weaving it anew into stripes of a 
variety of colors, according to the fashion of the place. 
This stuif they call el reves y derecho. It is extremely 
thick and heavy, and so durable that many of their gar- 
ments descend as heir-looms from mother to daughter, for 
generations. 

The women of the hamlet of Ycod del Alto are very 
fond of a mixture of gaudy colors. They wear hats made 
of straw, ornamented with small scraps of cloth, and their 
"headgear,'^ and sleeves of home-spun linen, are plaited 
with the nicest care. Their mantillas are of yellow baize, 
bordered with blue ribbon. 

At certain seasons of the year, there are fairs held in 
many parts of these islands, and the women who attend 
them, ornament their hats with as great a variety of showy 
ribbons as they are able to obtain at these times. 

In the eastern part of TenerifFe, red and yellow are the 
predominant colors for the dress of women; and a pair of 
silver buckles touching the ground on either side of the 
foot, is an indispensable requisite to such as wish to be con- 
sidered buenas niozas. 

The dress peculiar to the women of Palma, particularly 
the part called La Punta del Norte, is generally made of 
blue camlets lined with yellow flannel, and bordered with 
red cord. All of them have a peculiar way of tying a 
handkerchief or white cloth over their heads, so that one 
of the points projects out from under the cheeks, by which 
they may always be distniguished from those of the other 
islands. In the neighborhood of Las Sauces, the women 
wear a cloth cap resembling el montero which is worn by 
the men of Fuerteventura. 

The general costume of the countrymen of the Valley of 
Orotava, consists of a felt hat of Canary manufacture, a 
pair of black breeches of coarse wool or velvet, with a shirt 
and calzoncillos, made of domestic linen. They wear the 
knee part of their smail-ciothes loose and open, below 
10 



110 CANARY ISLANDS. 

which hang their calzoncillos or drawers, three or four 
inches, leaving the lower part of the legs bare, except in 
the colder season, when they wear long stockings, with 
shoes. Many of them, such as wood-cutters, herdsmen, 
and muleteers, wear a coarse English blanket doubled over 
a piece of cord by which it is fastened round the neck. 
This serves as a cloak, and defends them against the fre- 
quent showers that fall on the more elevated regions, and 
also protects them against the cold. 

The winter dress of the men of Lanzarote consists of a 
long coat of blue cloth, reaching nearly or quite to their 
feet, which they wear over their ordinary garments. It is 
lined throughout with red baize, and the seams, pocket- 
holes, and cuffs are trimmed with the same color. Instead 
of a hat, they wear a kind of cap which they call 
el montero. 

The natives of Fuerteventura are known in the Canaries 
by the name of Z^os iHf a; or^ros, from their formerly wearing 
a kind of sandals called los majos, which were bound on 
their feet by thongs. Their dress in warm weather is limi- 
ted to a shirt, and a pair of very wide, short calzoncillos, 
confined round the waist by a parti-colored sash, and some- 
times they wear a blue cloth waistcoat scalloped round the 
back. On holiday occasions, however, the better sort 
wear a cloth jacket and small-clothes with coarse leggins. 
The use of hats is entirely disregarded by them, a sub- 
stitute for which they wear a cap called el montero. It is 
made of blue cloth, lined with red or yellow stuff, and is 
so constructed that the lower part of it, when loosely put 
on, hangs behind the head ; but they can draw it, at pleas- 
ure, over the lower part of the face, in such a manner as 
to leave only the eyes and nose visible, much in the way 
of the ancient viziers. In the latter fashion, it is used in 
the winter, or on any occasion when the wearer chooses 
to disguise himself, which is, unfortunately, too often the 
case. 

The dress of the sea-faring men of these islands consists 
of a cloth montero, a shirt of colored baize, and a pair of 
wide linen calzoncillos, confined round the waist by a 
broad, red sash, the folds of which serve for pockets. In 
the stormy or cooler weather, they wear a long, thick 



CANARY ISLANDS. Ill 

jacket, which has a kind of hood attached to it, that they 
throw over their heads whenever occasion may require it. 

From the mildness of the climate of these islands, the 
children of the lower classes are permitted to go almost or 
completely naked until they are six, eight, or even ten years 
of age. They are seldom seen with any other clothing than 
a coarse linen or muslin camisa, and often they are seen 
in an entire state of nudity. 

Employments, The principal occupations of the natives 
of these islands, independent of a necessary supply of mer- 
chants, husbandmen, mechanics, shopkeepers, and fisher- 
men, are as follows : — 

Many of the peasantry of the Valley of Orotava of both 
sexes, lead a miserable life in gathering the branches of 
trees on the mountains and burning them into charcoal, 
which they afterwards convey on their heads, or on mules, 
to the larger towns, and sell it for a very trifling sum. 
They generally go to market provided with a hoe and 
sieve, with which, after disposing of their fuel, they collect 
and sift such part of the dung-hills in town as may be use- 
ful to carry back into the country for manure. They 
appreciate this article so highly, that I have known a man 
to work nearly half of a day in order to get his hat full. 

Many of the men in various parts of the province are 
employed as herdsmen. They have the charge of a large 
flock of goats or sheep, with which they constantly keep, 
day and night. The goats, in many instances, are driven 
into town early every morning for the purpose of supplying 
the inhabitants with milk. 

In Orotava, Santa Cruz, and most other large towns, 
there are men and boys employed in conveying people and 
luggage from one place to another on horse-back, or on 
mules or camels. They generally travel -on foot them- 
selves over the worst of roads, barefooted, and often with 
a heavy burden on their backs or heads. 

On Teneriffe, there is another class of men, called los 
nieverosj who^are employed in summer in conveying snow 
and ice from the higher regions of the Peak to the larger 
towns, for sale. 

The wives and daughters of the sea-faring men of Port 
Orotava obtain their daily subsistence by leaving that 



1 12 CANARY ISLANDS. 

place every morning, and travelling two or three leagues 
into the interior, at day-break, w^ith a basket of fresh or 
salted fish, and other articles of demand in the country, 
which they barter for vegetables or fruit. They return to 
town with a heavy load which they dispose of from door to 
door, in small quantities, or sell them to market-women for 
the next day's consumption. These women lead a very 
hard life for small gains. It is common to meet parties of 
them, barefooted, on their return in the evening, pouring 
forth in measured accents their spontaneous song, which 
gives utterance to their ^' hopes and fears," their "joys 
and sorrows." 

In the island of Gomera, one of the principal employ- 
ments of the men is that of gathering orchilla, a kind of 
lichen, which generally grows on the face or in the clefts 
of the steepest rocks. The mode of collecting it is as fol- 
lows : — The gatherer fastens one end of a rope twenty or 
thirty fathoms in length to a trunk of a tree or to a large 
stone on the summit of the precipice, and, after trying its 
strength, he lets himself over the brink, and slides down 
the rope to its lower extremity, where a stick or piece of 
board is fastened cross-wise. On this, he seats himself, 
holding on the rope with his left hand, while with a scra- 
per in his right hand, he collects the weed and lodges it in 
a bag, suspended to his neck. As soon as the bag is filled, 
he ascends the rope, *' hand over hand," and after dislodg- 
ing its contents, he either descends again, or shifts his 
place, according to the scarcity or abundance of the arti- 
cle of his pursuit. The dangers of this occupation are 
obvious, and accidents often occur from the vibrating of 
the rope, or from the giving way of its support ; yet habit 
has rendered it so little to be dreaded, that the gatherer 
pursues it with the most daring intrepidity. He often fixes 
his feet against the rock, and darts off to a considera- 
ble distance from it, in order to ascertain where the orchilla 
grows in the greatest abundance. Often they may be 
heard singing, suspended in the air, at an elevation where 
the eye cannot easily distinguish them. 

Notwithstanding these dangers, if a man once com- 
mences this business, he seldom, if ever, attempts any other 



CANARY ISLANDS. 113 

occupation. There is a certain stimulus in it that cannot 
be overcome, even by the utmost persuasion. 

There are men to be met with from Grand Canary in 
almost every part of these islands, trafficking in coarse, 
felt hats of their own manufacture. They are purchased 
by the low^er or middle classes, who are unable to wear 
those of a better quality. 

Commerce, Agriculture, and General Industry. In 
general, the natives of these islands have but just advan- 
ced beyond the earliest rudiments of maritime commerce. 
They derive a considerable portion of their support, how- 
ever, from their fisheries, which exist between Cape Boja- 
dor and Cape Blanco, on the coast of Africa ; and, in- 
deed, the natives of Palma have a natural turn for specu- 
lation, either in trafficking to the other islands for for- 
eign goods, or in sending small adventures of brandy, 
silks, and almonds to Cuba and Porto Rico, where they 
send regularly a few small vessels, the only foreign com- 
merce that any of the natives of these islands carry on. 

Almost all the foreign commerce that these islands pos- 
sess, is effected by Europeans, who have settled here, or 
a few of the higher classes of the natives. Their staple 
products of exportation are wines, brandy, barilla, archil, 
silk, potatoes, and a few other vegetables. The principal 
articles that they receive in return, are staves, hard-ware, 
cutlery, dry goods, and in years of famine, they draw large 
cargoes of provisions from America, Spain, England, and 
the north of Germany. 

These islands, in their present state, are so far from 
yielding a profit to the government, that they annually 
exact large sums from it for the maintenance of their gar- 
risons ; while, if they were in the hands of a more liberal 
and enterprising nation, they would be of considerable 
commercial value. 

Agriculture forms the most important branch of industry 
among all classes of society ; but with few exceptions, all 
the processes employed in preparing the ground, casting 
in the seed, and gathering the harvest, are slight and 
simple. The only plough used here, is a rude implement, 
constructed entirely of wood, except a small iron colter, 
which just serves to scratch and turn over the stony sur- 
10* 



114 CANARY ISLANDS. 

face of the soil, and is put together in the roughest man- 
ner possible. It is drawn with a pair of oxen, and little 
effort is requisite to keep it down ; in fact, the whole is 
so slight a concern, that the laborer, on unyoking his team 
at the end of his work, always throws the plough over his 
shoulders, and carries it home without any inconvenience. 
The greater portion of the natives, having no personal inter- 
est in the soil which they cultivate, do not exert themselves 
beyond that state which the fertility of the soil renders pro- 
ductive. No inducements are held out by the Spanish 
government for improvements of any kind, and the natives, 
possessing an hereditary aversion to the introduction of 
modern inventions, do not advance one step beyond the 
modes which have been adopted for centuries. *^ Unhappily, 
the real welfare of the inhabitants does not correspond with 
the advantages which nature has lavished on these regions. 
The farmers are not proprietors ; the fruits of their labor 
belong to the nobles ; and those feudal institutions, which, 
for so long a time, have spread misery throughout Europe, 
still weigh heavily on the happiness of the people.'' 

The cultivated regions are so fertile, that two crops of 
grain may be obtained in a year, and a succession of crops 
of potatoes and many other kinds of vegetables or fruits. 
Grain is raised only by imperfectly ploughing the ground 
and sowing the seed which is slightly covered w^ith a hoe, 
and being profusely supplied with moisture, it brings forth 
in abundance, and is separated from the ear in a very rude 
manner. A circular space in the field is prepared by mak- 
ing a solid and smooth foundation, upon which the sheaves 
are placed, and a long frame with projecting points on the 
under side is dragged over them by oxen or cows ; upon 
this frame the driver sits, and often it is loaded with 
stones. The projecting points break the straw and detach 
the kernel, which is carefully separated, and is ready for 
use. Bat one of the greatest exertions bestowed upon 
agricultural industry, is the culture of the grape. The 
vines are planted among the crevices and loose fragments 
of lavas, from which they derive their nourishment, and 
spread their tendrils over the surface of the rocks, receiv- 
ing the whole influence of the heat from the perpendicular 
rays of the sun, as well as from the reflected heat from the 



CANARY ISLANDS. 115 

stones upon which they rest. In some instances, the vines 
are trained over lattice-work, forming delightful arbors, but 
their fruit is less delicious than when ripened the other 
way. 

The vintage occurs from the middle to the last of Sep- 
tember, when the peasantry of both sexes are engaged in 
gathering the fruit and making wine. The extemporane- 
ous song resounds throughout the valley, and the laborer 
keeps time to his tune, and all seems less like a scene of 
labor than a gay festival. The process of making wine 
is similar to that practised in Madeira, the Azores, or most 
of the countries of Europe. The grapes are first cut from 
the vines, and conveyed to the press, which consists of a 
large vat holding forty or fifty bushels. As soon as the 
vat is completely filled with the fruit, four or five of the la- 
boring men enter it, bare-legged, and tread the grapes until 
they are quite broken. In the mean time, the principal 
part of the juice is expressed and conveyed into proper 
vessels, and afterwards to the wine-cellar, where it is put 
into large casks in order to undergo the process of fer- 
mentation. The remaining grapes are subjected to heavy 
pressure, which deprives them of the rest of their juice, 
which is conveyed away as the former. The wine in this 
state is very like new cider, but more insipid to the taste ; 
but after being fermented and receiving a due portion of 
alcohol, it receives that flavor as when remitted to us. 

Another considerable source of industry is the produc- 
tion of barilla. This substance, though generally thought 
to be a mineral, from the form it assumes, is made from a 
species of plant, (Salsola soda, hiN.) It thrives best 
on the clifis near the ocean, and seems to be possessed 
with the property of decomposing the salt-water, which is 
conveyed to it in the form of vapors or spray, in separat- 
ing the muriatic acid from the soda, the latter of which, it 
absorbs. Its seed is sown in winter, and the period for 
gathering it usually begins about the end of July or the early 
part of August. The weeds are first torn up by the roots 
and thrown into large pits dug in the earth, and after being 
suffered partially to dry, they are set on fire, and the alkali 
contained in them, flows in a liquid state from the bottom 
of the pit. This liquid, on cooling, hardens into large, 



116 



CANARY ISLANDS. 



Stone-like masses, in the manner as shipped to us. It is 
not fifty years since this plant was first introduced into 
these islands from Spain, and its cultivation is an increas- 
ing source of wealth. 

The following table exhibits the amount of the principal 
productions of these islands in an abundant year : — 





i 


>^ 


c^ 




i 


i 


d 








c 


B 


N 


> 


© 
S 


© 


Total. 








1 


1 


© 


S 


W 




Wine, 


23,560 


8,848 


5,158 


3,720 


220 


2,650 


2,100 


46,256 pipes. 


Wheat, 


85,617 


60,876 


17,978 


51,120 


60,860 


8,520 


480 


285,451 fanegas. 


Maize, 


38,259 


122,980 


5,120 


19,140 


5,200 


4,680 


1,000 


196,379 " 


Barley, 


25,100 


55,600 


18,570 


92,980 


120,500 


9,300 


9,360 


331,410 '« 


Rye, 


7,948 


4,960 


5,600 


5,060 


550 


1,700 


900 


26,718 " 


Pulse, 


13,710 


11,560 


9,100 


10,150 


1,600 


3,820 


400 


50,340 " 


Potatoes, 


400,000 


180,000 


80,000 


50,000 


15,000 


22,000 


11,000 


758,000 " 


Barilla, 


35,000 






46,000 


33,000 







114,000 quintals. 










Archil, 


410 


190 


135 


125 


390 


140 


108 


1,498 *' 



The sledges used on these islands for the conveyance of 
casks of wine and other goods, are of the rudest construc- 
tion that can be imagined. They consist of only two rough 
pieces of wood, terminating at a point at the forward end, 
and spreading out at the hind end at the distance of about 
two and a half feet. These are kept in their position 
by two cross pieces nailed on the top. One end of a 
pole, is fastened to the forward end of the sledge by 
thongs of leather, while the other end is attached to the 
heavy yoke that crosses the neck of the oxen directly be- 
hind their horns, to which the yoke is confined by other 
thongs that rest on a mat or cushion placed on their fore- 
heads. The provincial name for the sledge is la corsa, 
and the Spanish name of the yoke, la yunta. 

Manufactures, in a country where the people are satis- 
fied with the simplest accommodation, cannot be ex- 
pected to attain any high importance. The distaff and 
spindle are universally used by the spinsters of all these 
islands. Not a female in the province will allow ma- 
chinery in the shape of a spinning-wheel to supersede 
their most simple and ancient implements. The females 



CANARY ISLANDS. 117 

of Palma, however, are extremely industrious, in whose 
dwellings is to be seen, besides their ordinary utensils of 
house-hold work, either a small loom for weaving ribbons, 
garters, and other trilling articles, or reels for winding the 
silk which is produced in that island. Within a few 
years, they have very much improved the quality of their 
manufactares, and now produce some excellent samples of 
different kinds of silk cloths, which possess almost as 
much firmness as the French fabric, and of far greater 
substance, but deficient in gloss and colors, which distin- 
tinguish the latter, which they have not the means of imi- 
tating. 

Boston, Wednesday, } 
May 21, 1834. j 



LETTER XIX 



History. 



It is generally admitted that the Canary Islands are 
the Fortunate Islands of the ancients, and many writers 
have contended, and with some degree of plausibility, that 
they formed a part of the vast island known under the name 
of Atlantis. Those who are of this opinion found their 
belief on the testimony of Plato. He represents it as a 
large island in the western ocean, situated before or op- 
posite to the Straits of Gades. Out of this island there 
was an easy passage into some others which lay near a 
large continent, exceeding in bigness both Libya and 
Africa together. Neptune settled in this island, from 
whose son. Atlas, came its name, ?nd divided it among 
his ten sons. The descendants of Neptune reigned there 
during a period of 9,000 years. But subsequently, pro- 
digious earthquakes and deluges took place, and in the 
space of one day and night, the whole was brought into a 
state of desolation, and the noble race of people who in- 
habited it, was at once merged into the earth, and the 
island itself being absorbed in the sea, entirely disappeared, 
and for a long time afterwards the sea was innavigable on 
account of the rocks and shoals that existed thereabouts.* 

Most of those who admit the foregoing remarks to be 
true, consider the Azores, the Madeiras, the Canaries, and 
the Cape de Verds to be the fragments of Atlantis ; and 
contend that the Azores were connected with Ireland, 
and that the Cape de Verds extended to 1 he Carribee Islands. 
One thing, however, is certain, if this be true, the whole 



* Vide Plato's Timseus. 



120 CANARY ISLANDS. 

island must have been a continuous chain of volcanos, for 
all these islands are decidedly of volcanic origin ; and who- 
ever vi^ill attentively examine the basaltic cliiTs of the Giant's 
Causeway, will soon discover sufficient cause to conclude 
that the crater from which that melted matter flowed, was ac- 
tually sunk, at some remote period of time, and became the 
bottom of the Atlantic Ocean — a period, indeed, much be- 
yond the reach of any historical monument or even of tra- 
dition itself^ And often, in strong easterly winds, vitri- 
fied substances, as well as tufa and pumice-stones, are 
washed up by the waves on the eastern shores of the An- 
tilles, which tends to prove that the bottom of the ocean 
from thence, towards the Cape de Verds, is covered with 
the debris of some large volcano, that has consumed its 
foundation, and buried itself beneath the ocean. 

The first writer among the Greeks who has made any 
mention of the Atlantic Islands, is supposed to be Hesiod, 
who speaks of the Hesperides and the Gorgons, about 640 
years before the commencement of the Christian era. But 
long before that period, some of the illustrious Myrmidonian 
navigators probably made occasional voyages to these and 
other islands, either driven there by adverse winds, or 
incited by an enterprising spirit, and gave rise to the various 
traditions respecting the renowned country, Atlantis, the 
Elysian Fields, the Gardens of the Hesperides, the 
Fortunate Islands, and other delightful abodes, the beau- 
ties of which were either heightened by the vanity of 
the discoverer, or were the actual descriptions of the more 
fertile regions and richer scenery of TenerifFe, Madeira, or 
other Atlantic Isles. 

" When Sertorius, a native of Nnrsia, fled before the 
arms of Sylla, and having passed the straits of Gades, 
reached the coast of the river BcEtis, he there met with 
some seamen w*ho w^ere but lately returned from the 
Fortunate Islands, and spoke in the highest terms of the 
beauty of the country. '^ This circumstance is mentioned 
by Plutarch in his life of Sertorius, with the additional in- 
formation, that the islands mentioned were two in number, 



* Vide Whiteliurst's Theory, p. 91. 



CANARY ISLANDS. 



121 



situated about 10,000 stadia from the coast of Africa. 
These flattering descriptions seemed to offer so much tran- 
quillity to the harrassed partizan of Marius, that Sertorius, 
in a moment of despondency, had resolved to embark ; but 
the war which broke out in Africa awakened the military 
spirit which he possessed in so eminent a degree. He 
therefore returned to scenes more congenial with his nature, 
delivered the Mauritanians from the yoke of a tyrant, and 
having accepted the proffered friendship of the Lusitanians, 
was invested by them with absolute authority. The infor- 
mation which Sertorius had received respecting these 
islands, and the disposition he had manifested to reside 
there, induced others to make the voyage. About twenty 
years afterwards, Statins Sebosus collected the various 
accounts that had prevailed, and whatever journals had 
appeared ; but vainly attempting to make such narratives 
agree, he was led into errors which required more than 
fourteen hundred years to correct. 

The short account which Juba, the young king of Mau- 
ritania composed, respecting some islands in the Atlantic, 
was preserved, and confused by Pliny. In this royal jour- 
nal of maritime discovery, a new island is added to the 
number which Sebosus had previously mentioned. 

The following table exhibits the names of these islands 
as described by Sertorius, Plutarch, Sebosus, Juba, and 
Ptolemy, corresponding with their modern names : — 



§ 


<l 


•^ 




5J^ 




'S 


1 


i 
•1 


i-> 


g 

1 


Modem JVames. 


1 


^ 


« 








Atlantic. 


Fortunate. 


Hesperides. 


Purpuria. 


Apositos. 


Fuerteventura. 


Atlantic, 


Fortunate. 


Hesperides. 


Purpuria. 


Junonia 
Autolola. 


Lanzarote. 






Junonia, 


( Junonia 
/ parva. 
Ombrios. 




Graciosa. 






Pluvialia. 


Pluitalia. 


Hierro. 






Capraria. 


Capraria. 


Casperia. 


Gomera. 






Convallis. 


Xivaria. 


Pinturia. 


Teneritfe. 






Planaria. 


Canaria. 


Canaria. 


Canary. 








Junonia. 


Junonia. 


Palma'. 



Ombrios is described by Juba as being uninhabited. 
The Mauritanian seamen found a pond in the mountains, 
11 



122 CANARY ISLANDS. 

and also observed many curious trees, some of which 
yielded a bitter kind of water, while from others they pro- 
cured water by no means unpleasant to the taste. They 
visited Junonia which presented nothing remarkable ex- 
cept a small, stone temple. Near Junonia, they fell in 
with another smaller island to which they gave the same 
name. They afterwards visited Capraria which was in- 
fested with enormous lizards. The Mauritanian naviga- 
tors then stretched across to the opposite island, which, 
from the continual mist and snow that enveloped it, they 
called Nivaria. Adjoining Nivaria, they discovered an- 
other island, to which they gave the name of Canaria, from 
the number of large dogs found upon it, two of which 
were captured and presented to Juba. 

After the decline of the Roman empire, these islands 
remained unknown to Europeans until the year 1328, when 
they were accidentally discovered by an Englishman by 
the name of Robert Macham, who was driven there by a 
tempest, and on his return, made his discovery known. 
In 1334, Alphonso IV. of Portugal, sent Louis de Ordo 
to conquer them ; but being repulsed at Gomera, he aban- 
doned his enterprise. From this circumstance, the Por- 
tuguese founded their claim to these islands. But Pope 
Clement VI. granted them to prince Louis, of Spain, son 
of Alphonso de la Corde, the right heir of Castile, by the 
name of the Fortunate Islands, and caused soldiers to be 
levied in France and Italy to assist him in the conquest, 
which gave such umbrage to the English ambassadors then 
at Rome, who thought there were no other Fortunate 
Islands than those of the British empire, that they sent an 
express to the English court to prevent the danger of the sus- 
pected conveyance. But nothing was done in pursuance 
of the Pope's grant until 1385, when some Biscayans fell 
among these islands, and having plundered Lanzarote, re- 
turned to Spain with great stores of wax, hides, and other 
commodities of the island. The next expedition to Lanza- 
rote was from Seville in 1393, not to subdue the islands, but 
to enrich themselves by robbery and plunder. At this time, 
several people of Spain were excited by avarice, and soli- 
cited Henry III. king of Castile, for a license to conquer 
these islands, as he pretended they were his property. 
Accordmgly, a grant was given to Jean de Bethencourt, a 



CANARY ISLANDS. 123 

Norman, in 1400, who subdued Lanzarote, Fuerteventura, 
Gomera, and Hierro, after a contest of six years. The 
other islands remained unconquered, after numerous un- 
successful attempts by the Spaniards, who were repeatedly 
interrupted by the Portuguese, until the year 1477, when 
the island of Canary was conquered by Don Juan Rejon un- 
der the crown of Castile. Under the same reign, the island 
of Palma was subdued in 1491 by Alonzo de Lugo, who, 
at last, completed the subjugation of these islands by the 
bloody battle of Laguna in 1493. Ever since that event, 
they have been subject to the crown of Spain. 

When the Europeans first came to these islands they 
were inhabited by a savage race of people, the following 
account of whom, is translated from a Spanish manu- 
script written by Juan de Abreu Gallineo, a Franciscan 
friar in the island of Palma, in the year 1562 : — 

The natives of Lanzarote were of a middling stature, 
having a tawny complexion, and straight, coarse, black 
hair. They were of a humane, social, and cheerful dispo- 
sition, and were very fond of singing and dancing. Their 
music was vocal, accompanied by a noise they made by 
clapping their hands, and beating the ground with their 
feet. They were very active, and took great delight in 
leaping and jumping, which were their principal diversions. 

When they were ill, which seldom happened, they effected 
a cure with such herbs as were peculiar to the island ; or 
when they had acute pains, they produced a scar on the 
part affected, or burned it with fire, and anointed it with 
butter. They deposited their dead in caves, stretching 
out the bodies and covering them with goat-skins. 

Their food consisted of gofio, butter and milk, and goats' 
flesh boiled or roasted. They ate their food from vessels 
made of clay, and hardened by the heat of the sun. Their 
method of obtaining fire was by taking a stick of hard, 
dry wood, which they caused to turn round rapidly on the 
point, within a soft, dry, spongy thistle, which soon became 
ignited. 

The costume of the natives of Lanzarote consisted of 
goat-skins sewed together and fashioned like a cloak, with 
a hood to it, which reached to the knees. The seams 
were closed in a very neat manner with thongs of leather, 



124 CANARY ISLANDS. 

which were as fine as common thread. Instead of knives 
and scissors, they used sharp stones of obsidian. Their 
shoes were made of goat-skins with the hairy side out- 
ward. They wore bonnets made of goat-skins also, hav- 
/ing three large feathers placed in front ; the women wore 
^ the same, with a fillet of leather dyed red with the bark 
of some shrubs. The men had long hair, and wore their 
beards plaited. The king of the island wore a diadem or 
crown resembling a bishop's mitre, made of goat-skin, and 
ornamented with sea-shells. 

When they sowed their ground with barley, their only 
grain, they dug or ploughed it with goats' horns. They 
threshed their grain with sticks and winnowed it with their 
hands, and reduced it to flour by means of two small porta- 
ble mill-stones. 

Their houses were built of stones, without the aid of 

mortar, and were very strong. The threshold was so 

narrow that but one person could enter at a time. They 

also had houses of worship and devotion, called efeguen, 

i which were built of loose stones, of a circular form, com- 

i posed of two walls, one within the other, with a space 

between, and like their dwelling houses, were entered by 

a narrow threshold. In these temples, they offered to their 

one and only God, milk and butter. They sacrificed to 

him on the mountains, pouring out, from earthen vessels, 

offerings of goats' milk, and adoring him at the same time, 

..by lifting their hands towards the heavens. 

/ Duels and combats were frequent among them, which 

/ they fought with large clubs called tezzezes. If a man en- 

I tered the door of his enemy's house, at his knowledge, and 

I killed him, or did him any injury whatever, he was not pun- 

I ished for it ; but if he came upon him unawares and killed 

I him, he was put to death, by placing his head upon a flat 

I stone, and with another, dashing out his brains. 



The manners, and customs, and mode of life of the 
natives of Fuerteventura were similar to those of Lanzarote. 
They were of a larger stature, however, and were pos- 
sessed with solid courage, and a warlike spirit. They 
were clothed with jackets made of sheep-skins with the 



CANARY ISLANDS. 125 

sleeves short, and reaching no further than their elbows. 
They wore high, goat-skin caps, and short breeches which 
left the knee bare, and socks or short stockings that reached 
little higher than the ankles. They wore the same kind 
of shoes as the natives of Lanzarote, and dressed their hair 
and beards in the same manner. 

In this island there lived two women, one named Tibiatin, 
and the other Tamonante, who were mother and daughter. 
The business of one was to settle and compose differences 
that might arise among the chiefs of the island, and that of 
the other to regulate the ceremonies. The natives believed 
them to have been sent from heaven to instruct them, to 
foretell future events, and to cause them to live in peace 
and unanimity with each other. It was by the assistance 
of these two women that Bethencourt made an easy con- 
quest of this island. When he arrived there, it was divided 
into two portions, each of vrhich was governed by its own 
king, and separated by a wall of loose stones, crossing the 
island from shore to shore. 



t 



The natives of Gomera were of a lively disposition, of a 
middle stature, very active and dexterous in attacking and 
defending, and excellent slingers of stones and darts. It 
was a common amusement with the young people to cast 
small stones and darts at each other, to avoid which, they 
seldom moved their feet, but only waved their bodies ; and 
they used to catch in their hands the stones and arrows as 
they flew. In their combats, they made use of slings, bows, 
lances, and darts made of hard wood. They had several 
men among them renowned for valor, and others who were 
famous for their songs. 

The costume of the men of Gom.era was a sort of cloak 
made of goat-skins which extended below their knees. 
The women wore a petticoat, and a head-dress which hung 
down to their shoulders, made of goat-skins, dyed and 
painted red and blue in a curious manner. Their shoes 
were made of hog-skins. 

When Bethencourt arrived there, the island was divided 
into four parts, each division governed by a chief or king. 
These chiefs often had quarrels among themselves concern- 
11* 



126 CANARY ISLANDS. 

ing the limits of their respective districts ; and when a quar- 
rel was to be decided by combat, they divested themselves of 
their cloaks, tied a kind of bandage about their waists and 
proceeded to action. 



The natives of Hierro were of a middling stature, and of 
a melancholy turn of mind. Their songs were on grave 
subjects, and set to slow, plaintive tunes, to which they 
danced in a ring, joining together their hands. They 
lived in large circular inclosures, the walls of which were 
built of dry stones without the aid of cement, each inclos- 
ure having one narrow entry. On the inside they placed 
poles or spars against the walls, in such a manner that one 
end might rest on top of the wall, and the other end on 
the ground, at a considerable distance from it ; these they 
covered with the branches of trees and ferns. Each 
inclosure contained about twenty families. Their beds 
were made of ferns covered with goat-skins. 

Their principal food consisted of the flesh of goats, 
sheep, and hogs ; they also had a species of potatoe, but 
no grain. Their bread was made of fern-roots which they 
ate with butter and milk. Before they offered their infants 
the breast, their mothers gave them fern-roots, roasted, 
bruised, and mixed with butter. 

When any one became ill, they rubbed the patient's 
body all over with sheep's marrow and butter, taking care 
to cover him up warm to promote perspiration. When any 
one happened to get cut or wounded, they burned the part 
affected, and then anointed it with butter in the same 
manner as the natives of Lanzarote. They deposited 
their dead in caves, and if the deceased was wealthy, they 
buried him in his clothes, and placed a board at his feet, 
and the staff with which he used to travel at his side, and 
then closed the mouth of the cavern with stones to prevent 
the ravens from devouring him. 

The costume of the men consisted of a cloak made of 
three sheep-skins sewed together, the w^ool side of which 
they wore next to their skin, in winter, and in sum.mer, 
they reversed it. The costume of the women, besides a 
cloak made of sheep-skins, consisted of a petticoat which 



CANARY ISLANDS. 127 

reached down to the middle of their legs. In sewing these 
skins together, they used small thongs for thread, and 
small, pointed bones for needles. They went bare-headed, 
with their long hair done up into a number of plaits. Their 
shoes were made of the raw skins of sheep, goats, or hogs. 

The natives adored two deities, one of them male, and 
the other female. The male was named Eraoranzan, and 
was worshipped by the men ; and the female was named 
Moneyba, and worshipped by the women. They had no 
representations of these deities, nor did they sacrifice to 
them, but only prayed in the time of necessities. The 
natives feigned that when their gods were inclined to do 
them good, they came to the island and stationed them- 
selves on two great rocks, named Ventayca, w^hich are sit- 
uated in a place called by the Spaniards, Los Antillos de 
los Antiguos. On these rocks, the deities received their 
petitions, and afterwards returned to heaven. When a 
long continuance of dry weather occurred, and they were 
reduced to great necessity, and their prayers w^re not an- 
swered, they assembled together at Ventayca with their 
cattle and there held a fast for three days and as many 
nights, weeping and lamenting, and their flocks bleating 
for the want of food. If all this did not produce rain, they 
sent a man whom they considered as a saint, to a cave 
called Atecheita, w^here he invoked the gods to send a me- 
diator, upon which, as tradition gives it, an animal like a 
pig would appear to him, called AranjaihOy or mediator. 
Then the saint w^ould put the animal under his cloak and 
carry it to the natives who were assembled at Ventayca, 
and they formed themselves and their flocks into a proces- 
sion, and continued to walk round the rocks lamenting and 
wailing. 

They all lived under one king, consequently they never 
had occasion to go to war. They had no rules in their 
marriages, except that a man should not marry his mother, 
daughter, or sister, and could not marry but one wife. 
They were all on an equality, except the king, who received 
no stipulated tribute, but every one made him presents 
according to his wealth or pleasure ; and the only distinc- 
tion among them w^as in their substance, which consisted 
in flocks. It was customary for a man when he chose a 



128 CANARY ISLANDS. 

wife, to make a present of cattle to her father according 
to his ability, as an acknowledgement. When they made 
a feast, they killed one or two fat lambs, according to the 
number of guests, and roasted them whole ; these they 
placed on the ground, and seating themselves round them, 
never rose until they had entirely devoured them. 

They inflicted no punishment for crimes except murder 
and theft. The murderer was put to death in the same 
manner as he killed the deceased. For the first offence 
of the thief they put out one of his eyes, and for the second, 
the other, that he might not see to steal any more. Their 
punishments were executed by a particular person set 
apart to perform offices on these occasions. 
/ When the natives perceived Bethencourt's ships ap- 
/proaching with their white sails, they remembered the 
' prophecy of a man who had formerly lived among them, 
named Yore, and who was considered a soothsayer or divin- 
er. This man, when on his death-bed, called the natives to- 
gether, and told them that long after he was dead and gone, 
I and his flesh should be consumed, and his bones mouldered 
\ to dust, their god Eraoranzan would come to them in white 
houses on the water ; and advised them not to resist him 
nor fly from him, but adore him, for he was to come to do 
them good. The natives, who placed great faith in his pre- 
dictions, buried him in a separate place from the rest of 
their dead, that his bones might be afterwards distinguished 
from theirs. On seeing the ships approach with their white 
sails swelling on the surface of the waves, they firmly be- 
lieved that the prophecy was fulfilled, and directly went 
to the cave where Yore was buried, and there found his 
bones crumbled to dust ; upon which, they ran joyously to 
the shore to receive their god Eraoranzan. 



The natives of Canary were of a dark complexion, well- 
proportioned, and of a good stature. They were an active, 
warlike people, but cheerful and good-natured, and were 
strictly faithful to their promises. They were very fond 
of hazardous feats, such as climbing to the top of steep 
precipices, and pitching poles of so great weight, that one of 
them was a sufficient burden for a man of ordinary strength 



CANARY ISLANDS. 129 

to carry on level ground. They had public houses or 
rooms in which they assembled to dance and sing. Their 
songs were either dirges or amorous sonnets, set to grave 
and plaintive tunes. 

The houses of the Canarians were built of stone without 
cement, but were regular, and had a neat appearance. At 
the top, they had wooden beams or rafters very close to 
each other, and were covered with earth. Their walls 
were low, and their floors were sunk below the surface of 
the earth. Their beds consisted of goat-skins dressed in 
a curious manner with the hair on. Their other furniture 
consisted of baskets and mats made of palm leaves and 
rushes very ingeniously wrought. The women, in general, 
were employed in painting and dyeing, the colors for which, 
they extracted from flowers and shrubs. The thread 
which they used for sewing and other purposes was made 
from the elastic sinews of sheep, goats, or swine. These 
they first anointed with butter, and after undergoing an 
operation by fire, they w^ere susceptible of being split into 
fine threads at pleasure. Their needles were made of 
bone, and their fish-hooks of horn. All their vessels used 
in cooking were made of clay, hardened by the sun, in the 
same manner as those of Lanzarote. Their wealth con- 
sisted chiefly in cattle, sheep, goats, and hogs. 

Their common food consisted of goats' flesh, milk and 
gofio. When they made a feast, they dressed their goats' 
flesh in lard or butter. 

The costume of the Canarians was a tight coat with a 
hood to it like that of a capuchin friar; it reached down 
to the knees, and was girded about the waist with a leather 
belt. This garment was made of a kind of rush, which 
they beat till it was quite soft like flax, and then divided 
the filaments and wove them together. Over this they 
wore cloaks of goat-skins with the hair-side outwards, in 
summer, and inwards, in winter. They also had caps 
made of goat-skins taken off* almost entire, which they 
placed on their heads in such a manner, that they had the 
goats' beard hanging under each ear, which they some- 
times tied under their chin. All these garments were 
neatly sewed and painted, and in every respect were supe- 
rior to those of the natives of the other islands. Some of 



130 CANARY ISLANDS. 

the women wore bonnets made of skins, adorned with 
feathers. Their shoes were made of raw skins like those 
of the natives of the other islands. 

The Canarians had among them religious women, called 
magadas, a number of whom lived together in one house, 
and were held sacred ; and criminals who fled to any of 
them were protected from the officers of justice. The 
magadas were distinguished from other women by their 
long, white garments, which swept the ground as they 
w\alked. The houses in which they dwelt were called 
tamogante(:n Alcoran, (houses of God.) The natives had 
temples of worship called almogaren, (holy houses,) which 
they daily sprinkled with goats' milk. They believed that 
their God, Alcoran, dwelt on high, and governed every- 
Ithing on earth. They adored him by putting their hands 
[ together, and raising them towards the sky. 

In the island there are two large rocks, one in the dis- 
trict of Gaidar, which the natives called Tirmac, and the 
other in Telde, called Vinicaya. They went to these rocks 
at the time of public calamity, in procession, accompanied 
by the magadas, carrying branches of palm-trees and ves- 
sels filled with milk and butter which they poured on the 
rocks. They then commenced dancing around them, sing- 
ing mournful songs or dirges, called by the Spaniards las 
endeclias. From thence they went to the sea-side, and all 
at once, and with one accord, struck the water forcibly with 
their rods, all shouting at the same time with a very loud 
voice. 

The Canarians had nobility among them, who were 
distinguished from the populace by the peculiar cut of 
their hair and beards. It was not sufficient to entitle a 
man to nobility by being the offspring of noble or rich 
parents, but it was necessary for him to be declared noble, 
formally, by Xhefacag, a person of great rank, and next in 
dignity to the giianarteme, or king. It was his duty also 
to decide differences among the natives, and to regulate 
the ceremonies of their religion ; in fact, he was a priest, 
and also a judge in civil affairs. 

The Canarians were remarkable for their good govern- 
ment, regularity, and strict administration of justice. 
When a man committed a crime deserving death, he was 
apprehended and imprisoned, where he was tried, and im- 



CANARY ISLANDS. 131 

mediately upon conviction, he was led to the place of exe- 
cution. Then he was stretched out on the ground with his 
head placed on a flat stone, and the executioner, a man set 
apart for that office, taking a heavy stone, and lifting it as 
high as he could, suddenly let it fall on the criminal's 
head. But for crime not worthy of death, they used the 
lex talioms, *' eye for eye, tooth for tooth," etc. 

In their wars, they viewed it as base and mean to mo- 
lest or injure the women and children of their enemies, 
considering them innocent, and therefore improper objects 
of resentment. Their war instruments w^ere clubs, stones, 
and sharp-pointed poles hardened by fire. 

They had public places set apart for fighting duels, 
which consisted of eminences or stages raised above the 
ground. When a challenge was given and accepted, the 
parties went to the council of the island, which was com- 
posed of twelve members, called gai/res, and obtained a 
license to fight. They then went to the facag to have 
this license confirmed. This being done they brought 
together all their friends to be spectators to their gallan- 
try and behavior. They next mounted upon two stones, 
placed on each side of the stage, where they stood with 
their feet stationary till both had thrown three rounds of 
stones at one another. Though they were good marks- 
men, yet they generally avoided those missive weapons by 
the agile writhing of their bodies. Then arming them- 
selves with sharp stones in their left hand, and clubs in 
their right, they approached one another and continued 
beating and cutting one another until they were nearly 
exhausted, when the parties retired, by consent, and re- 
freshed themselves. They then returned to the scene of 
action and renewed their engagement, continuing with 
increased violence, until their council cried out gama ! 
gama! (enough! enough!) when they immediately 
ceased fight, and afterwards remained friends. If, during the 
combat, one of the party happened to break his club, the 
other immediately desisted from striking, and there the 
dispute ended, and neither of them were declared victor. 
If they were deeply wounded, they beat a rush until 
it became like flax, which they dipped into hot butter and 
applied to the wound ; the older the butter was, the sooner 
it effected a cure. 



1 32 CANARY ISLANDS. 

When the Canarians were inclined to marry their daugh- 
ters, they set them apart thirty days, dm'ing which, they 
fed them with large quantities of milk and gofio, in order 
to fatten them.* Polygamy was never practised among 
them, as some misinformed writers have affirmed. They 
were very careful in the education of their children, and 
never failed to chastise them when they did wrong. It 
was also a custom among them to propose two youths, one 
virtuous and the other vicious, as examples for the rest, of 
good and evil. 

When any of the nobles died, they deprived the body 
of its intestines, washed it, and after drying it in the sun, 
swathed it with bandages of goat-skin, and then fixed it 
upright in a cave, clothed with the same garment as the 
deceased wore when alive. But if no suitable cave was at 
hand, they deposited the body in a stone coffin in some 
barren part of the island, covering it up in a very ingeni- 
ous manner with small stones. Some of their dead were 
put into chests, and afterwards deposited in a kind of stone 
sepulchre. The lower class of people were buried in holes 
dug in some retired place, and covered over with dry stones. 
All the bodies, except those set upright in caves, were 
^ placed with their heads to the north. 

None of the Canarians exercised the occupation of a 
butcher except the very lowest class of society. This 
employment was accounted so ignominious, that they 
would not so much as allow one of that profession to enter 
any of their houses, or to touch anything that belonged to 
them. It was unlawful for the butchers even to keep 
company with any except those of their own profession, 
and when they wanted anything of any other person, they 
r were obliged to carry a long staff with them, and point at 
i whatever they wanted, when standing at a considerable 
tdistance. As a recompense for this abject state, the other 
natives were obliged to supply them with everything that 



* A similar custom was practised amon^ the Libyans. Before they gave their 
daughters in marriage, they kept them apart for a time, and fed them with milk 
until they became fat. One of the principal articles of food among them was a 
substance similar to gofio, which they caUeA couscoussou. These customs tend to 
prove that the Canarians descended from, or had some intercourse with, the 
Libyans. 



CANARY ISLANDS. 133 

they needed. It was unlawful for any of them to slaughter 
animals, except the butchers, and when any person wanted 
a beast killed, he was obliged to lead it to the public sham- 
bles for that purpose. 

When the Europeans first came to Canary, it was sup- 
posed that the island contained 14,000 fighting-men. 
They were governed by captains, or patriarchs, who pre- 
sided over small circles, like parishes. Each tribe was 
confined to its own district, and was not allowed to graze 
its flocks on the grounds of another tribe. The natives 
were more polished and civilized than those of the other 
islands. Their division of time was reckoned by moons. 
They tilled their ground with a wooden instrument, 
not unlike a hoe, with a tooth or spur at the end of it, 
on which they placed a goat's horn. After sowing their 
barley, if the rain neglected to fall, they w^atered their 
fields by means of canals or rills. They threshed their 
grain with sticks, or beat it out with their feet, and win- 
nowed it with their hands. 



When the Europeans first landed on Palma, the island 
produced no sort of corn nor edible roots, except the seeds 
of a kind of shrub, and fern roots. Both of these substan- 
ces were reduced to powder and eaten with milk or broth. 
The rest of their food consisted of the flesh of goats, sheep, 
and hogs, which they either boiled or roasted. The skins 
of the first two animals served for clothing, and that of the 
latter for shoes. The w^eapon they used in war was a staff 
or pole, sharpened at the point, and hardened by the fire. 

The island was divided into twelve districts, each of 
which was governed by its own lord or captain. Their 
police was not so good as that of the other islands. He 
who could steal with such address as not to be discovered, 
was considered as the cleverest fellow, and if any one hap- 
pened to be detected in this practice, no other punishment 
was inflicted on him than of being obliged to restore the 
article stolen. If a man received an insult from any one 
of his own district, he thought it mean to complain of the 
injury to his captain, and avenged his own cause, by col- 
12 



134 CANARY ISLANDS. 

lecting his friends, and retaliating the affront, by taking up 
their residence in some other district. 

The natives of Palma held the sun and moon in great 
veneration, keeping an exact account of time, in order to 
know when it would be new or full moon, which were 
times of particular devotions. Their manner of worship 
was by assembling together on certain occasions, sing- 
ing and dancing round a high pyramid of loose stones, 
and sometimes accompanied with wrestling, and perform- 
ing other feats of agility. In one of the districts, instead 
of a pyramid of loose stones, there was one formed by 
nature, being a large basaltic rock upwards of a hundred 
fathoms in height, where the natives worshipped their god 
Idafe, whose name the rock still retains. They were in 
continual apprehension of its falling down, and therefore, 
when they killed a sheep or goat, they roasted a piece of 
it, which was presented to the rock by two persons, who, 
i on going thither, sung these words : — Yiguida^ y iguan, 
I Idafe, which signifies in their language, " It will fall, 
I Idafe.'' Upon this, the other answered in the same tone, 
j Guegerte, y guantaro, which signifies "Give to it, and 
it will not fall." On reaching the rock, they threw 
down the offering, and both ran away, and the meat was 
quickly devoured by the ravens which hovered round the 
rock. Besides Idafe, they acknowledged one God in the 
heavens, greater than all, called Abora, whom they adored. 
They also believed in an evil being, called Irvene, which 
it is said, sometimes appeared to them in the shape of a 
shock-dog. They were extremely alarmed in time of sick- 
ness, and when any one was taken ill, he sent for his 
friends, and said to them, vacaguare, that is, "I want to 
die." Upon this he was carried into a cave and laid upon 
a bed of goat-skins, with a vessel of milk by his side, and 
the mouth of the cave was closed, leaving him to expire by 
himself The natives deposited their dead in caves, and 
always placed them on goat-skins, considering it improper 
for a dead body to touch the ground. 



The Guanclies, or natives of Teneriife, were generally 
famed for their tall stature, and sometimes attained an 



CANARY ISLANDS. 135 

incredible height. It is said that a descendant of one of 
the kings of Guimar was fourteen feet in height, Spanish,* 
and had eighty teeth. His body, when dead, was kept for \ 
many years in the cave of Guar Damohatex, which is i 
situated a few miles to the south-westward of Santa Cruz, t 
He is said to have been hardy, brave, and of good stomach. 
The natives of the southern part of the island were of a 
tawny and sun-burnt complexion, and many of them had 
dark hair, flat noses, and spare, thin faces. Those of the 
northern side of the island were rather tall, well-made, 
and of robust constitutions. They had fine, clear counte- 
nances, and generally lighter hair than those of the southT 
ern part. The females were peculiarly beautiful, having\ 
expressive countenances, and brilliant eyes. The Guan-* 
ches possessed an acute understanding, and were so quick 
of discernment, that they would count a large flock of 
sheep and goats, when issuing tumultuously out of the fold, 
without so much as moving their lips or pointing to them 
with their fingers, and this with the greatest exactness. 

The Guanches had no other houses than caves formed 
by nature in the rocks. They slept on beds made of herbs 
and grass covered with goat-skins, neatly dressed and 
sewed together, and with blankets or coverings of the same 
materials. There were among them artificers who dressed 
goat-skins and made their garments. They also had pot- 
ters who manufactured a kind of rude earthen-ware, and 
carpenters who v/rought in w^ood. They had no animals 
except sheep, goats, and small dogs which they called 
canclia. Their grain was wheat and barley. The men 
prepared the ground for seed, by digging it with w^ooden 
hoes, and the women sowed the seed. 

The Guanches were very neat and cleanly ; they wash- 
ed their faces and hands whenever they rose from sleep, 
and before and after their meals. Their food was the 
flesh of goats and sheep, boiled or roasted, which they ate 
alone, and not like the Europeans, with the addition of 
bread or roots. The rest of their food consisted princi- 
pally of gofio, milk, butter, and roots. After eating, they 
did not drink for the space of half an hour, as they imag- 



* About twelve feet and eleven inches English. 



136 CANARY ISLANDS. 

ined that drinking cold water immediately after eating 
warm food, injured their teeth. Both sexes anointed their 
bodies with tallow. Their common diseases were fluxes 
and pleurisies. When they were troubled with acute pains 
they drew blood from the part affected with lancets made 
of obsidian, as they had no metals, and all their sharp in- 
struments were made of the same kind of substance. 

The costume of the Guanches consisted of cloaks made 
of goat-skins, dressed and softened with butter. Those of 
the women were longer than those of the men, and reach- 
ed down to their feet. They wore, beneath their cloaks, 
petticoats made of the same kind of materials. 

The Guanches acknowledged but one God, whom they 
believed existed above, and sustained both heaven and 
earth. They believed that he created them of earth and 
water, and that he made, at first, as many men as women, 
giving them flocks and herds, and everything necessary for 
their subsistence ; but afterwards he thought them to be 
too few, and created more, whom he would not give any- 
thing, but bid them serve the other people whom he had 
made. They had not idols, nor did they worship the 
sun or moon, stars or stones ; neither had they rites nor 
ceremonies. When they were in great distress, occasion- 
ed by the want of rain or dews, they assembled in certain 
places set apart for that purpose, with their children and 
flocks, where they sat in a circle on the ground, weeping 
and making a mournful cry, and at the same time, their 
flocks were bleating for the want of food. They washed 
their children at birth all over with water, which was per- 
formed by women who lived in separate caves, and declared 
themselves virgins. They taught their children precepts 
similar to the scriptural commandments, which they strictly 
obeyed ; if not, they were severely punished. 

A few years before the conquest of Tenerifle, the whole 
island was governed by a prince named Betzenuria. He 
had nine sons, who, upon his death, divided the govern- 
ment equally amongst themselves ; consequently, the island 
contained nine kingdoms. Eight of the kings did homage 
to Tmobat, the elder brother, who was the most powerful, 
and possessed the richest and most fertile part of the island, 
being that tract which stretches between San Juan de la 



CANARY ISLANDS. 137 

Rambla and Laguna, in which he could raise 7,000 fight- 
ing-men. One of the brothers, named Acaymo, was king 
ofGuimar; another, called Atguarona, of Abona ; and a 
third, Arvitocaspe, of Adexe. The names of the other 
five are lost ; one however, reigned in Tegueste, another 
in Ycod, another in Centejo, and another in Daute. The 
royal dignity, in the Guanche language, was called quebeclii, 
and was elective. In summer the king resided in the moun- 
tains, but in winter he removed to the sea-side. When he 
changed his place of residence, or travelled, the elders of 
his tribe assembled, and carried before him a sceptre and 
a lance, with a kind of flag upon it, to give notice of 
his approach to all who might be travelling upon the 
road, that they might pay him their customary homage, 
which consisted of prostrating themselves before him on 
the ground, wiping off the dust from his feet with the cor- 
ners of their garments, and kissing them. The natives 
were divided into three classes, the nobles, the gentlemen, 
and the peasants. The first was called achimensey , and 
belonged to the house or family of the king ; the second 
class was called cilhiciquico, and included the gentry or 
yeomanry ; and the third w^as called achicarnay, and in- 
cluded the peasantry or servants. The Guanches often 
had disputes among themselves about their flocks and pas- 
tures, which frequently ended in wars. Their war imple- 
ments consisted of darts made of pine wood, sharpened and 
hardened by the fire like those of the natives of other 
islands. They also had a weapon like a spear, which they 
were so dexterous in throwing, that they scarcely ever miss- 
/ ed their aim. When an enemy approached, they alarmed 
I the country by making a smoke which was repeated from one 
I district to another. The women always attended the wars 
\^ with provisions and other necessaries, and in case that any 
( of the men were killed, they carried them off and deposited 
Vthem in caves. Their manner of holding their courts 
of judicature was by assembling to some plain in the 
island, in the middle of which they placed a large, square 
stone, and on each side of the plain they placed several 
stones of an inferior size and height. On the day appointed 
for holding the court, the king was seated on the high 
stone, and the principal elders, or council, were placed on 



138 CANARY ISLANDS. 

the lesser stones, according to their seniority ; and in this 
manner they heard and decided causes. When any one 
was sentenced to corporeal punishment, he was laid flat 
on the ground, and the king delivered his staff or sceptre to 
some person, commanding him to give the offender such 
number of blows as the crime merited, and then to be 
taken from his presence. For murder, the king took away 
the criminal's flocks and effects, giving them to 4;he rela- 
tions of the deceased, and banished the murderer from his 
district, but always took him under his protection, so that 
the friends and relations of the deceased might not injure 
him. They never punished any person by death, saying 
that it belonged to God alone to take away that life which 
he had given. They had a law among them, that when a 
man, by chance, met a w^oman alone on the road, or in a 
solitary place, he was not to look at her, unless she first 
spoke to him, but to turn out of the way ; and if he used 
any indecent expression, or behaved in an unbecoming 
manner any way, he was severely punished. They also 
had a custom among them, that when one person went to 
the house of another, he did not attempt to enter, but sat 
on a stone at the door, and either whistled or sang, till 
some one came out and desired him to walk in. Who- 
ever observed not this rule, and entered another person's 
house without being invited, was liable to punishment, as 
it was considered among them as the highest offence. 

Polygamy was not practised at all by them. They paid 
no regard to marrying kindred, except that of father and 
brother, or mother and sister. When a young woman 
pleased a man, he, in person, asked her parents, if she had 
any, if not, asked herself for her hand, and if agreeable, 
without any further ceremony than giving one another the 
hand, they became man and wife. If at any time after- 
wards they became disgusted with one another, they parted, 
and their union was dissolved, and they were at liberty to 
marry any one else. If they had children, they were con- 
sidered as illegitimate, and could not inherit their father's 
effects. The king was always obliged to marry a person 
who was his equal, and if such a one could not be found, 
he was allowed to marry his own sister, that he might not 
debase his family by a mixture of plebeian blood. They 



CANARY ISLANDS. 139 

also had a custom, that in a house or cave where the hus- 
band and wife slept, no other person was allowed to lodge, 
and the man and wife were obliged to sleep on separate 
beds. 

When any person died, they preserved the body, by first 
carrying it to a cave, and placing it on a flat stone, where 
they opened it and took out the intestines ; then, twice a 
day, they washed the porous parts of the body, such as the 
groins, the arm-pits, the parts between the fingers, and be- 
hind the ears and neck, with cold water ; and then they 
anointed those parts with sheep's butter, and sprinkled 
them with a powder made of the dust of decayed pine 
trees and pumice-stones, and let the body remain till it 
was perfectly dry, when the relations of the deceased came 
and swathed it tight with thongs of sheep or goat skins ; 
then they deposited it in a cave which had been set apart 
by the deceased for his place of inhumation. The king 
could only be interred in the cave of his ancestors, in 
which the bodies were so prepared as to be known again. 
There were particular persons set apart for the office of 
embalming, each sex performing that of his or her own. 
During the process of embalming, the bodies were strictly 
watched, to prevent the ravens from devouring them.* 

The Guanches have now become nearly or quite ex- 
tinct, and probably there is not an individual of pure blood 
in existence, although there are a few families in the south 
part of Teneriffe, who boast of being possessed with pure, 
unmixed blood. In the fifteenth century, the Spaniards 
and Portuguese made voyages to this and other islands, to 
procure slaves, in the m.anner as has latterly been done 
by Europeans on the coast of Africa. At that time, it is 
said that one Guanche became the property of another, 
and was sold to the dealers ; while many of them, rather 
than be carried away, killed their children and themselves. 
They had been greatly depopulated in this manner, and 
when Alonzo de Lugo completed their subjugation, most 
of the residue of that unfortunate race perished by a terri- 



* The above method of embalming, given by Gallineo, does not exactly corres- 
pond with that given in page 65 ; however, it is not probable that all the manners 
and customs of the Guanches were uniform j hence both may be correct. 



140 CANARY ISLANDS. 

ble pestilence which was supposed to have originated 
from the dead bodies left exposed after the memorable 
battle of Laguna. 

Numerous inconsistent theories have been advanced 
by writers, respecting the origin of the antiques of these 
islands, the labor of confuting which, would only equal the 
absurdity of expressing such opinions. It is not probable, 
however, that they descended wholly from any particular 
nation, but were impelled there by fortuitous or other 
circumstances, at different periods, and from different 
countries. 

Thus, gentlemen, have I laid before you a short detail 
of my observations and research on the Canary Islands. 
Many more, equally interesting, might be given of the 
places that I have since visited, but time and circum- 
stances forbid. Allow me to close by expressing my high 
veneration for your characters, which persevering industry 
and virtuous principles have given birth, and to solicit for 
my labors, a continuance of that honorable distinction 
which your patronage has ever conferred. 

I have the honor to subscribe myself, 

Your most faithful and devoted servant, 



Boston, Thursday, ) 
May 29, 18^4. \ 



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